Anyone able to tell me what part this is? It’s going into the left crankcase. It’s all frayed, would like to replace.
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Anyone able to tell me what part this is? It’s going into the left crankcase. It’s all frayed, would like to replace.
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It's the dingus noodle.
Someone with the correct answer will be along shortly; or longly.
The story of three wheels and a man...
Looks like a decompression cable but I don’t know where it’s going or what trike it’s on.
90 nickolson Bored and Stroked "The Good"
Big Bore 110 Pauter frame "The Bad"
90 Bored and Stroked “vey’s frame” "The Ugly"
110 JSC frame Bored and Stroked
flat track build. “Shop trike”
1974 original 90 X 2
1974 Original 70.
Those rubbers only come on wire harnesses. Cut it off but dont cut the harness. Let 1/2 or so then electrical tape from the end u til few inches befire the end of the harnesses connectors. Take wire ties and clamp both ends. Problems over
I'm fairly sure that it's your stator wires.
Look it up on a parts fish
90 nickolson Bored and Stroked "The Good"
Big Bore 110 Pauter frame "The Bad"
90 Bored and Stroked “vey’s frame” "The Ugly"
110 JSC frame Bored and Stroked
flat track build. “Shop trike”
1974 original 90 X 2
1974 Original 70.
Yes, that's the stator wire. Nothing to do with the coil or spark plug.
Found it! Thanks everyone. Only problem is it doesn’t have a part number?
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Honda doesn't sell that piece separately. You could try messaging ps2fixer, he makes harnesses and may have something that would work.
I'd have to check what the connectors look like, I think atleast one of them were the connector series that's out of production.
In the first post, there's this:
However the context of what "It" is isn't 100% clear. There's no mention of wires, so is it just the rubber that's cracked up? If the wires inside it are fine, do as the other poster said, cut back the rubber (or tape over it) with quality electrical tape and a zip tie at the top to keep it from unwrapping and it would be a reasonable patch to keep water/dust out of the stator area. Generally the tube part is just strain relief for the wires anyway and the actual seal is right at the case where the wires pass through the block of rubber.It’s all frayed
That section was a little confusing to me since generally frayed is used when talking about wires, but the post didn't have a mention of wires.
Also the stator isn't sold by honda anymore, if they did it probably would be like $400 and you wouldn't want it anyway at that price. If the wires are damaged, it might be best to buy a good used stator on ebay.
To confuse things more, it looks like there were 2 possible stators the machine came with. I've never heard of anyone having fitment problems like on the atc350x, so I'd guess they are built to the same spec and interchange. Here's a link for both part numbers which gives a fitment list. The TRX250 might be the cheapest, but you have to make sure it's the right year etc since that model was introduced again later on and there's models like TRX250R that won't be the same.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...79a4c6eadf8ca9
https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...79a4c6eadf8ca9
Also in the 2nd pic you posted, there's a missing bolt and the left crankcase cover caps are missing. The bolt I think is #24, diagram isn't super clear sadly.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...rankcase-cover
For the caps, they are pretty universal for their size. #13 and #14 should work, it would be best to buy new O-rings with them too assuming they are missing, not just removed. You'll need an allen wrench for these ones, seems like they are somewhat popular, just don't torque them down too much else it might be hard to break loose again (large sealing surface). I suspect the 250x, 400ex, etc should have the same size too but I didn't check the O-ring sizes to be sure.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...rankcase-cover
If preferred to other things, like electrical tape, you could release the wires from the connector and slide some heat shrink over that stator wire grommet.
If you need general instruction on how to remove a connector, start at ~1:20 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gE-hRjrLuyQ
There are specific tools for releasing the wires, but you can probably get by with a paperclip, pick, or precision (tiny) screwdriver.
The story of three wheels and a man...
Here's the correct tools for removing pins, like said above a tiny screw driver can work, I think the terminals are fairly large so I'd think the paperclip is too small in that case. The tools aren't too expensive, they are made of hardened steel (brittle) so careful how much they are bent or you might break the tip off. They are about 1/2 way down this page for the ones I use personally.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/crimp-tools.html