1985 250es gear shift shaft stripped

[Sperdue]

Ok I am not going to weld the shifter on. The shaft is very stripped out and even has a deformed end where someone has been monkeying with it. I have read that you could possibly turn the trike on its side and simply pull the shaft out but that sounds scary. Could this cause something internal to possibly shift and not line up when putting a new shaft in? I have both side covers off now since I have replaced my one way bearing and the starter gears that broke. Now when i get my new gaskets, I am ready to put this thing back together to ride but it won't do me much good if I can't change gears. Any suggestions?

[ps2fixer]

Couple options for ya I found. The ATC250SX used the same part number, but it has a pretty high price tag since it's still a 3 wheeler.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Honda-...UAAOSws11eH4A6


The main rod (splined part) is the same in the 85-87 TRX250, this listing much cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-85-Hon...UAAOSwaq9c5Alb

Here's the part number to base the interchange on.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ho...f7a79066bef937


You want both side covers pulled like you have currently. Move the shifter and look at the right side to see the arm that moves. If I recall correctly it just pulls off. Be sure to click it right (line the dots up) when installing the new one. Also on the left side, there's a small round disk that goes between the shift drum ratchet system and the shifter arm, don't loose that little guy, real easy to loose it. Once the arm on the right side is pulled off, the shaft should slide right out. Doesn't hurt to grab the service manual to make sure I didn't miss anything going off from memory. It's a somewhat common issue.

[sawgrass]

You can try to lessen the pinch distance or gap of the foot shifter by removing some of the inside material in the slot where the screw goes through. An angle grinder and vise would be helpful.

[350for350]

You can try to lessen the pinch distance or gap of the foot shifter by removing some of the inside material in the slot where the screw goes through. An angle grinder and vise would be helpful.

Another thing to add to this. Maybe you could drill a small hole through the shifter and tap threads into it. Then you could use a small set screw against the shaft. I've never tried this, but it's an idea.

[ps2fixer]

The set screw idea could work, but the shaft would probably need an indent drilled into it to accept the set screw to really lock them together. Think, there's like 20 splines or whatever stock and they wore out, with a set screw it's effectively 1 spline and narrower than the stock ones (doesn't contact the full width).

A through bolt could work, but same issue, any slop and stuff will wear pretty fast. Clamp + through bolt (or set screw) might be enough if the splines are already trashed.


Also, I don't like suggesting this, but welding it on would fix the problem, but then you have to grind the welds off or cut the shaft to ever take the side cover off. Trick is to not get the shaft too hot to take out the seal and understand it has to be effectively cut off later.

[Sperdue]

As long as I can just pull the shaft out (without any internal things going wrong or getting out of line) I think I will look at replacing it with one from ebay from the links above. I have a manual and know about the reverse arm on the right side but I will have to be really careful to make sure I don't lose the disk on the left side stated above. It looks like someone has already tried drilling a hole through the shaft on this one. I was wandering if JB weld would do anything. It may just be too stripped out and I know replacing would be the best.

[ps2fixer]

I don't think JB weld would be strong enough, but could give it a shot. There's quite a lot of torque being applied at that point.

[MrConcdid]

I know you said you didn't want to weld it, but it could be done in a way that is pleasing to the eye and removeable.
set the shifter onto the shaft with the shaft just below the height of the shifter, like doing a plug weld, now fill the low area with weld as you blend the two metals together. Stop when the pool is flush, if you over do it grind it flat with the edge of the shifter/and paint. If by some chance you ever need to split the case or something, then you still have options like: grind the shifter til you remove the plug weld and it will come off. you wont be any worse than you are now, then you could replace the shaft then. Chances are you will never need to remove the shifter, so what harm would there be welding it correctly?
You could place a wet rag around the shaft to control any heat going into the internals of the case. I would weld it before I JB-weld it.

It really comes down to, can you weld or not?

MrC.

[350for350]

I know that it's a completely different animal, but when I replaced the shift shaft on my 350X, it was a pretty quick, simple job. It may not be too bad on a 250ES either.

[Sperdue]

I do not know how to weld so I just ordered the one on ebay that fit the 85 trx250. Like psfixer stated, it had the same part number as my 85 big red and was only $35. I'll post an update after I get everything back together and fingers crossed that the starter gears work properly and hopefully i can push the button to start instead of kicking it!

[ps2fixer]

I only checked the actual shaft part number, the spring and such extra on it might not match up, check the two out before installing just to be sure =). Can't really beat the price vs one listed for a 250es... oh wait there was none xD.

[Sperdue]

Good point! That thought crossed my mind so I’ll be sure to check it out. I plan on buying a parts 85 250es in the future (if I can find one) but sure can’t beat that price for a part I had to have now.

[Sperdue]

Wow that was easy! I installed my new shifter rod yesterday. The old one pulled right out and the replacement slid right in with no troubles. That was definitely the way to go. Thanks for the link and advice.

[ps2fixer]

Good stuff. Keep an eye on the shift lever bolt. If it gets sloppy it wears at the splines. Same logic for the rear hubs and the axle nuts.