The meter was still jumping around after 5 sec. so I thought that was normal and took leads off. Bottom of fuse block 4 test ? pull fuses out and test were they slide in ?
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
The meter was still jumping around after 5 sec. so I thought that was normal and took leads off. Bottom of fuse block 4 test ? pull fuses out and test were they slide in ?
our original 85 we bought new, 2 - 86 police specials
250r dust runner
04 Yamaha kodiaK 450 snowbuster ! Brute Force 750 dust collector .
Bunch of es stuff I been buying for next builds....
Gone but lives on in my aching body the mighty 350x collection . A Beat 85 es im gonna rebuild
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
I view my time what I make per hour at fulltime job. I've never seen one brand dealer not be able to fix their specified brand. Old stuff can be tricky but newer stuff techs are trained with shop manuals to trouble shoot. Being anti dealer can cost the stubborn person more. If I make say $20 hr and I have 20 hours I to it that's 20 hrs I cant be playing with my kid or somthing else. Nothing g is free in life, not even time. I hope he figures it out, if not rip it 100% appart and redo, somthing could be rubbed or cut you not seeing. I build a 2015 rancher 4x4 up with 15 miles on it and still found some messed up things like a bad wire....15 miles on machine total!
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
The way I see it, my time is only worth what I could make in the game given amount of time. I'm self employed so my $/hr changes a lot, but then there's R&D which is a cost and eats up time. It's all a big balance. Spend more on expanding the business, learning, data collection, etc, more potential products can be discovered and made. But the name of the game is, you can't run out of money. Haven't a "normal" job you have the security of getting exactly the same pay per hour and more or less guanteed hours, but the down fall is you're capped to what your employer is willing to spend on you meaning they have to make more than what you're making.
I could outsource all the work I do and just mange the business, but I'd be lucky to make $100/mo since there just isn't enough stuff I make yet to warrant that kind of setup.
I get spending time with the family, like all things in life, you have to find the balance. I remember my dad working 70+ hour weeks just so he could drive a newer truck back in the late 90's, was never home, extra grumpy and pretty much hated life. He changed his viewpoint on life and now just works a 40hr week for less money, has less toys to play with but overall is a lot happier. I'm the same way, went from a stressful job to self employed and I don't know how I could stand life at my last job.
Anyway, on the fuse box stuffs. This is the spot I'm talking about testing in the image below. I know the pin out for the one connector but not the other. Test would be done with the fuses installed but the fuse box disconnected from the machine.
Last edited by ps2fixer; 10-09-2019 at 09:44 PM.
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
1570720347240800226447694474017.jpg meter reads 1. Without being hooked up . is that rite ? Anyways I took probes 2 the r/w and w/ blk and it jumps up a bit but settles at 0. .same way with w/r to w prongs
our original 85 we bought new, 2 - 86 police specials
250r dust runner
04 Yamaha kodiaK 450 snowbuster ! Brute Force 750 dust collector .
Bunch of es stuff I been buying for next builds....
Gone but lives on in my aching body the mighty 350x collection . A Beat 85 es im gonna rebuild
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
The meter shows the far left 1 as an "over load" or out of range. Resistance between the probes through the air is so high it can't read it basically. when it reads like 1.0 then it's 1 ohm. That's just the typical thing meters do, same thing my china meter shows.
Anyway fuse box validated good for the actuator circuit and main circuit, can you do the same for the fuel pump fuse/wires? Wouldn't hurt to check the accessory one too. I'm seeing readings I'm expecting so almost done xD.
This is what it's looking like wiring wise and what I'm expecting. Green lines indicate good wire, red wires indicate bad wire. The fuel pump fuse is the only section not validated (fuse box vs bad wire).
Last edited by ps2fixer; 10-10-2019 at 01:20 PM.
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
The readings jump up then both settle at -0.00
our original 85 we bought new, 2 - 86 police specials
250r dust runner
04 Yamaha kodiaK 450 snowbuster ! Brute Force 750 dust collector .
Bunch of es stuff I been buying for next builds....
Gone but lives on in my aching body the mighty 350x collection . A Beat 85 es im gonna rebuild
Power User
Teaching quads a lesson
A huge thank you to ps2fixer for SOLVING MY PROBLEM. This man is a great person and friend. Now we're is my check book.
our original 85 we bought new, 2 - 86 police specials
250r dust runner
04 Yamaha kodiaK 450 snowbuster ! Brute Force 750 dust collector .
Bunch of es stuff I been buying for next builds....
Gone but lives on in my aching body the mighty 350x collection . A Beat 85 es im gonna rebuild
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
Here's an update for anyone finding this from google, here's the full fuse box pin out.
And here's a wire function list:
White/Red: Main power source (direct from battery, before fuse)
White: Power source (after fuse)
White/Black: Same as white wire
White/Blue: Same as white wire
White/Green: Fuel Pump power (after fuse) - goes through fuel pump relay to get to fuel pump
Red/White: Actuator Controller power source (after fuse) - controls engine brake actuator & 2wd/4wd actuator
Brown: Accessory Power source (before fuse) - power comes from ignition switch
Brown: Accessory Power (after fuse)
TLDR of this thread, someone poked the white/black and white/blue wires with something (multi meter maybe) and caused the wires to corrode. In the harness the both go directly to the white wire.
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