09 750 Brute force wont start

[ps2fixer]

Hey Sunpro I know that name, my dad has an exhaust gas analyzer made by them. From my understanding they are old school high quality. I'm kind of thinking the old meters might just not have had the beep option and is a semi newish thing, I was born in 87, so around mid to late 90's is when I first messed with a multi meter.

The white/red wire is power from battery, so battery voltage expected there. If the fuse was connected the white wire would have the same (back probing).

You could connect the fuse panel back up and back probe the white/blue and white/green wires to do the same test, just readings would be voltage vs ohms (realistically I'm looking for the ohms test, but voltage test I can make sense of too).

A little more on the ohms test, it's as simple as the probes not testing vs the probes touching, whatever it says open vs touching is what you'd expect for the wires to be good vs bad. 200ohm setting would work, but 2k would work fine too (2k is like the go to range for most things).

The ranges don't really mean a whole lot, it's just the max resistance it can read. The logic is, if you're trying to read 10 ohms, but you're on the 2k ohm setting, the results will be less accurate than when on the 200 ohm setting. Switching to like 20k ohm setting, you'd be missing a decimal place most likely and might not be able to see 10 ohms in the display. Pretty much we are testing the wires like a fuse.

[dustrunner]

1570576741033722430794541491831.jpg on this setting the 30 amp fuse jumps all over the place on both sides of fuse. Reading don't stay up very long either. Also turned it down to 200 with same results

[dustrunner]

15705769015123702650924261741016.jpg both sides with key on.

[ps2fixer]

when in ohms mode the meter provides the power, the probes have to be between the two points you're testing, like for testing a fuse you put one probe on each side to read if the fuse has connection or not. It doesn't even need to be installed. I know most people don't really get experence using a meter in ohms mode, everyone seems to be used to test lights and use the meter the same way in volts mode.

We know the main fuse is good in and out of the fuse box (brake lights work etc), but the problematic part is where it comes back from the harness as the other two white wires (effectively they are the same wire, but kawasaki changed the color to white/blue and white/black for some reason).

Anyway, taking measurements between ground and fuse is basically measuring the circuit's resistance which can tell like expected amp draw and such, but that's more of a circuit board level thing, not what we are looking for here. One probe should be white wire in the harness connector, and the other on the white/green, same thing but switch to the white/blue wire.

Here's a couple screen shots showing testing a fuse and a wire, both are good. I had to cheat a little with the clamp since only one hand for photos. Hopefully that makes sense.




Here's a screen shot of the wiring showing the 3 wires are the same wire inside the harness.

[dustrunner]

15705801902342736391468271457311.jpg no reading except if I probe white then w/black ....same plug in meter jumps all over from .06 to 9.4. Key on fuses in all hooked up.

[ps2fixer]

Yep sounds like a bad wire, you're in the 200k range, so 0.6 is 600 ohms, 9.4 is 9,400 ohms. Both way too high. Power on the wires doesn't matter, the meter doesn't care since it's not part of the circuit. Same logic you can touch the white wire for 120v house wiring even though it has 120v at it because your body isn't part of the circuit (white = neutral = ground basically speaking, and you get shocked because you're the "new" ground). Black wire however will poke you. Probably best not to put this to the test unless you know the wiring is accurate, but you can test it with a meter, white to bare copper (bare copper = earth ground). Test should be done in AC volts since not all houses are wired with neutral and earth ground directly tied together so they might not ohm out correctly (just because they don't connect doesn't mean they are not related).

Anyway, back to the wiring the only thing left that could be tested is the fuse box connector (the male prongs sticking out) and the fuse on the other side to be sure they all connect through, but I really doubt that's where the issue is. You could do it with the connectors plugged in, that's easier. You'd probe white/black to white/green to test the fuel pump fuse/box. The other fuse to test the same way would be white/black to red/white. We know the main fuse is good, so no point in testing that, same with the acc fuse (brake lights run off the same wire so logic says it should be fine). I'm like 95% sure you should get good readings off those two tests and that validates the fuse box side is good.

There's a lot of possible reasons why the meter would jump all over on the numbers, but the main factor is that it didn't stop at 0 ohms. Like the photos I took before, my meter started off reading 0.2 ohms and dropped to 0.0 and climbed back to 0.1. The actual connection quality from probes to terminal can effect the readings slightly. Also the wires could be bad right at the terminals so moving the probes around is making them get and loose connection. If you wanted, you could tug on the two problem wires and see if either of them rips apart. Only should need around 10lbs of force to feel it, don't need to try to break stuff. A lot of times you'll feel it stretch if it's bad, that means the copper is broken inside, and the insulation is stretching. The Fix could be as simple as cut the wires shorter and put new terminal on them. Infact it's probably a good idea to do another test after the fusebox one, since if the wires are junk right at the plug, the adapter idea would be changed slightly, no point in providing a connection to wiring that doesn't go anywhere.

[dustrunner]

W/blk to w /g. Nothing....w/blk to w/r jumps up to 21.2 then settles to around 7.0 key on fuses in all hooked up.

[dustrunner]

Does the metal bracket the fuse block is in need to be bolt grounded ?

[ps2fixer]

Lol I think you mixed up the colors. They should be right next to each other in the connector.

White/blue to White/Green

White/black to red/white

The power/grounding from the machine doesn't matter, it doesn't effect the ohm readings.

[dustrunner]

Sounds like a good place to start with in the am. My throat is so soar its killing me. t.y. again and have a wonderful evening sir.

[ps2fixer]

Sounds good. Remote testing is a brain twister since I can't physically do the tests myself. I normally just start probing around and get an idea of things and go off that data, actually making steps that make sense isn't so easy lol.

[dustrunner]

W/blu to w/g shoots up to 16.6 then drops jumping around a lot. Same with the w/ blk to r/w shoots up to 37.3 then drops jumping alot

[ps2fixer]

What's it drop down to or stabilizes at?

Got thinking on things, you will want the key OFF or else you could pulling power through the meter. Never done that in ohms mode so not 100% sure how the meter would react. The best readings would be reading the bottom of the fuse block instead of back probing, but the same locations as where the wires normally go.

I'm thinking the meter probably has a slow averaging processor in it, so the initial connection might be really high oems, and it's averaging against the connection being solid. If you touch the two meter probes together, you should see the same effect, but maybe a little faster acting.

[oldskool83]

after 3 months I'd of just taken this to a shop....what's your time worth?

[ps2fixer]

Yea I was kind of thinking about that too. On the flip side, if he's just working on it with nothing else todo to make money, then his time is costing him $0 vs sitting and watching TV or w\e. If he's a drinker, it could cost him more money to sit around and be bored drinking than to be actively working on something.

Besides that, electrical problems most shops are not that great with, it's one of those things where you probably have to take it to 3-5 shops to find someone that works there that's good with wire diagrams and finding electrical problems. Maybe my area is just bad, but based on my dad's stories, there's always someone in the car mechanic shops that cut corners and does very questionable quality work. He's one of the guys that has to do the come back work else it keeps coming back and they loose a customer. He's worked at 4+ shops and had the same experience to some degree at all of them. Not saying my dad is the best in the world or anything, he just takes his job with pride, even if it takes a little longer to perform the work than someone else.

Also, your name is oldskool, isn't it old school to repair your own stuff? It's not always about saving money, learning how this stuff works is valuable too.

Anyway, I completely get why someone would want to just pay someone else to do this stuff. To some people, they are wired where this stuff is fun to them. Like I generally enjoy working on cars and atvs and such. If we focused on money too much, no one would ever help other people out because it's not profitable, I'm not making anything helping people here, it's just something I do, nice little challenge and such. I think in 15 years I've been tipped twice, like $1 and $5 and both of those was way back when I helped people with game console repairs.