Hey Sunpro I know that name, my dad has an exhaust gas analyzer made by them. From my understanding they are old school high quality. I'm kind of thinking the old meters might just not have had the beep option and is a semi newish thing, I was born in 87, so around mid to late 90's is when I first messed with a multi meter.
The white/red wire is power from battery, so battery voltage expected there. If the fuse was connected the white wire would have the same (back probing).
You could connect the fuse panel back up and back probe the white/blue and white/green wires to do the same test, just readings would be voltage vs ohms (realistically I'm looking for the ohms test, but voltage test I can make sense of too).
A little more on the ohms test, it's as simple as the probes not testing vs the probes touching, whatever it says open vs touching is what you'd expect for the wires to be good vs bad. 200ohm setting would work, but 2k would work fine too (2k is like the go to range for most things).
The ranges don't really mean a whole lot, it's just the max resistance it can read. The logic is, if you're trying to read 10 ohms, but you're on the 2k ohm setting, the results will be less accurate than when on the 200 ohm setting. Switching to like 20k ohm setting, you'd be missing a decimal place most likely and might not be able to see 10 ohms in the display. Pretty much we are testing the wires like a fuse.