09 750 Brute force wont start

[dustrunner]

My multi Meters about 2 catch on fire. Lol. Gotta get a few supplies. Will get back onto it in am. T.y. so much .

[ps2fixer]

Not a problem, atleast we are on a trail of finding the root of the problem =).

[dustrunner]

Just unplugged fuse box. No corrosion . Looks like a solid white feeding fuse then out with a smaller w/r wire. And yes brake light works with key on. 15705458297445894594131612246102.jpg

[dustrunner]

20191008_103651.jpg nice and clean

[ps2fixer]

Interesting fuse box design, little different from what I was seeing on google. I'd think that's the better design, looks like the terminals on the fuse block are just pass through right to the fuses, no wiring involved.

Can you get a photo of that white wire how it splits off with the white/red wire? Just interesting it only splits off once, not twice. Looking back at the wire diagram, that connector should have 2 wire/red wires together going to one terminal, solid white wire separate (in vs out of the main fuse). The white/red wires both run to the starter relay and combine together again at the bolt. Weird design choice.

From what I can gather, unless there's some fancy stuff going on in that fuse box, the issue is likely in your harness. Since those connectors look standard to me, I could make an adapter that goes between the harness and fuse box to does the splice work there. In theory that would bring it back to life, but it's possible other things running off that white wire might not have power still, it just guarantees the fuel pump would and the other fuse it should be powering. I'd want to validate the issue is in the harness via multi meter before making the adapter though. I'd also need clear photos of the wiring so I can see all of the wire colors and their location in the connector housing. Basically the adapter would pass through the wiring, and the 3 wires that should be connected together would be all spliced together right in the adapter, big 6 wire splice (3 in and 3 out). Depending how much the 14 guage wiring effects things, might have to do it in two splices with a 14 gauge jumper wire between the two, don't think my splice terminals are big enough to handle all that copper at once lol. Could leave the harness side disconnected for the splices, but figured it should power the part of the wiring that doesn't have connection.

Here's my connectors that should match yours besides being white vs black.

Anyway, let me know when you get another multi meter. Probably best to grab a quality one, but the cheap ebay ones work "ok" if you don't mind them being a bit inaccurate and can't read small ohm readings. Quality used ones run something like $25 on ebay, new I'd expect to pay around $50+ unless you really research what models are good for the cheap ones. My meter was something like $25 new, but that was back in the 90's right from radio shack.

[dustrunner]

15705485073638701784843573621310.jpgsolid white into and w/r out the other side is r/w and w/blk brake control I believe

[dustrunner]

My multi meter is working. But I left key on ATV last nite. How much voltage is needed for accurate test sir ?

[ps2fixer]

Yep, all that looks like it matches up to the wire diagram, also pretty sure I can put together the pinout for that connector. The white/black and red/white is for that actuator controller. The other connector should be brown, brown, white/blue , and white/green.

Brown wires is for the acc power (in/out of the fuse), and white/blue and white/green for the fuel pump.

Assuming the issue is in the harness, it would be interesting to trace it to the splice that failed, and see what caused it, but I suspect you're more interested in getting it going and not so interested in pulling the harness apart lol. If the splice that fails doesn't effect anything else, I could potentially sell a product to "fix" the fuel pump power issues and provide a multi meter based test to validate if the part would fix the issue or not. It's new enough and a common enough issue, and expensive enough to fix "correctly" by replacing the harness that I think it might be something good to make. I'll probably have to buy a harness just to check how the splices are and guess how they fail and where it physically is located in the harness.

[ps2fixer]

Oh just saw your reply, the ohm readings require no voltage at all, the meter provides the power for the tests =). You can put it in beep mode, or 200ohm range (or auto range). Good should show connection (beep), or 0 or near 0 readings. Bad should be no beep, and whatever the meter shows when the probes have no connection. All tests done on the harness side of the connection.

[dustrunner]

I don't think my cheapo meter has a beep. is there a switch for it ?

[ps2fixer]

Every meter is slightly different, but most generally have the beep mode. Both modes do the same thing, just the beep mode makes it audible.

Here's my radio shack meter, can you tell it has years of use on it lol.

I tried to make things simple and screen shot open + shorted per mode. Your meter should have similar symbols as mine. The radio shack one is auto range select, and the "select" button changes it from ohm testing to beep mode to diode testing (the triangle with the line in front of it symbol).

Ohms Mode


Beep Mode



Here's the Chinese cheap meter from ebay, notice it doesn't even read 0.0 ohms for the dead short test. This one you have to move the switch based on if you want 200 ohm range or beep mode.

Ohms Mode


Beep Mode (also does the diode test at the same time)


Since that china meter is hard to photo, here's a better photo of the settings.



Also small note about the meter differences, my china probes had a silver coating on them just like the radio shake probes, but the readings were very inconsistent. I sanded them down to the yellow brass under it with 400 grit paper, and the banana plug side too and it reads the same numbers every time now (dead short test is 0.3-0.4 every time and I can subtract 0.4 from ohm readings and get the same readings as my good meter now). However, before I sanded it down, I couldn't subtract the same number from dead short vs ohm testing because the numbers didn't match what was expected. Pretty much expect a china meter to be around 10 ohms off.

Anyway, for our testing, just need to validate connection or no connection, so doesn't matter too much what it reads, the fuel pump wire I suspect will read in the 100's of ohms, if you're in the 200 range it should show as no connection for over 200ohms, not sure what the upper limit would be for beep mode, I'd assume 200ohms as well though for beep vs no beep.

[dustrunner]

15705601570341247168781487221394.jpg I have this but I dont know if it works

[ps2fixer]

I don't see the beep signal, interesting, first meter I've seen without it.

The 200 setting would work fine though, you just have to look at the display to tell if it has connection or not.

[dustrunner]

15705653581458937813702786148124.jpg how15705653581458937813702786148124.jpg about this 1 ?

[dustrunner]

Just checked the white into the fuse block unplugged and it reads 0.0 with key on but the smaller w/r reads same as battery voltage.