Power User
The day begins with 3WW
Yea would be nice to complete the 200e/es collection. I just double checked and 83 has it's own unique part number for the harness, so *something* is different about it. I suspect it's more or less interchangeable with the 82 and 84 though with the matching CDI.
Also, here's a CDI connector image I made to show the differences a little. Not perfect, but covers them fairly well.
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
Max output is 70W @ 5,000 RPM.
The battery size doesn't matter all that much. If you really wanted to you could slap a car battery or marine deep cycle battery on it. The biggest thing is, with a big battery it will want to draw more current to charge. If it draws too much it could blow a fuse, but never had that happen on my 200es in the past... yea I ran a spare car battery on it for about a year lol. Don't mix battery types though, it came with a lead acid battery, don't try to throw a sealed lead acid in unless you're sure the charging voltage is within spec for the battery type (they can't take overcharge).
Your #1 problem is draw on the alternator though. Headlight + tail light is 50w so with the lights on, the power is almost all going just for the lights while riding. With the lights off, the battery can charge. Idling likely won't put out enough power to charge the battery, big time with lights on. Car's are designed to make excess power at idle, atvs don't due to the alternator design and limitations.
Anyway, the car battery mounts pretty well on the rear rack, just make sure it's strapped down really well as it's a heavy weight that can sling around and hurt you or others easily. Of course with that location you have to extend the battery cables and such. For the most part, it's best to stick with the OEM sized battery since it tucks away so nicely. There's also Lithium Ion batteries for ATVs now. I don't know a whole bunch about them, but Lithium Ion has the highest power vs weight & volume ratio, so a stock sized battery is like 4 times more energy stored in it, and like 5-6 times more max amp output. It's probably best to add a fuse to the starter wire because of how much output the battery has. The stock AH rated batteries are tiny, the challenge with them is getting them mounted so they don't move or get damaged.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
there is no dash indicator lights or reverse switch on 200E. so theres one difference, as for the rest, i havnt looked to closely at it
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
Ah yea forgot about that, the 82-83 also doesn't have the safety wiring for the CDI either. The 82-83 harness probably is a bit easier to make, I'm pretty sure it doesn't have an inhibitor relay either.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
It has the relay. I checked today
Last edited by wellys88; 01-06-2019 at 03:56 AM.
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
The 84 does, 82-83 doesn't, I just double checked the wire diagram to make sure I wasn't crazy lol.
They all have a neural switch though. The 82-83 was really simple for the safety system, only way electric start works is if the machine is in neutral. If you manually start it, I suspect it will start in any gear. I think the extra wiring on the 84 was to prevent manually starting it in gear, or atleast not allow it to start in reverse. Personally, I'd prefer the 82-83 style harness/safety system for how simple it is, nice and reliable, and if the safety system fails, you can override it by pull starting it. It's also possible to wire up a neutral light on the 82-83 because of the neutral switch, but no reverse switch so not much of a point for that.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
I saw it today. The bikes chain drive. Now I'm tempted to get out of bed and go back out and check��
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
God only knows what type of abortion that is that I have then. Lol I'm guessing there was some frankensteining goin on lol
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
Lol very possible. The other key indication would be the reverse safety switch wire. The 82-83 doesn't have it, while 84 does. I suspect it would have to be a dangling wire, or cut off.
Power User
Got the holeshot
I think a good battery choice is the Deka ETX15. I've been using that battery for a couple years now and it's holding up.
That battery is sold under a few different names, all with the same part number. Duralast (Autozone), Big Crank, and Deka, all are the exact same US made battery.
http://www.federalbatteries.com.au/ETX15/ made by this company http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/
https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...ery/350078_0_0
https://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cr...5-Battery.html
The same Ah rating as the stock Yuasa YB14A-A2, but 30 CCA more. It's also AGM, which handle vibrations better. It does weight a few pounds more than the stock battery. The terminals are much more robust than the Yuasa.
My next choice would be a lithium type battery, but they're nearly double the cost. They save a lot of weight though and don't discharge as rapidly when stored. I've been using one on a motorcycle of mine for years, again, they're expensive and I'm not able to put them on everything because of the price.
The story of three wheels and a man...
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
That AGM looks good.
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
A healthy Lead acid (or AGM) doesn't discharge very fast at all, unless you're talking months. It's critical for them to stay above their min voltage though (like 11.6v).
If I was to go with a lead acid style battery, I'd buy the same brand OEM used. I've seen those batteries last for a very long time. The one in my 99 warrior lasted a good 13 years or so and I traded it to a friend for a new ebay special one because my battery fit his machine, the one he bought was too big, but fit my machine. It lasted about a year, wish I never traded the OEM one away. It was a flooded lead acid style and I kept it full of acid, and I put acid in it myself, so it wasn't from sitting around dead. It developed a self discharge problem quite quickly though.
I have no experience on the Li-Ion batteries, but for the 18650 cells used in laptop batteries, they are very solid. I bought a bunch of "junk" laptop batteries that have been sitting dead for atleast a year or two, and I still was able to bring 50-60% of the cells back to life and have respectable capacity (yea I tested them). Plan was a house battery for storing power and such, but haven't gotten to far on that, so it's just a ton of cells to use in my LED head lamp.
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