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Thread: 250sx clutch problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    everglades
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    250sx clutch problem

    I've run into a problem with my 250sx clutch. I replaced the centrifugal clutch and manual clutch plates with springs along with the one-way clutch. I put the machine back together and the manual clutch is still slipping. I adjusted the clutch counter clockwise
    until I got some resistance and backed it off 1/4 turn. Is this problem a break-in issue or something else. I've never had to break in a clutch on a automatic before so I don't know if this is normal. Thanks

  2. #2
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Jan 2013
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    5,911
    Hello


    Your adjustment matches the manual but recheck your adjustment again.

    If you have time to answer it will help others to more quickly determine what your problem might be.

    How do you know for sure it is the manual clutch that is slipping, under what conditions exactly does it slip under.
    Did it slip the same prior to changing the clutches?

    Does it happen to slip more when it is hot or cold?

    Did you see anything wrong with the old clutches?

    What oil ie 30 wt 20/50 synthetic etc is in it now?

    Did the inside of the centrifugal clutch hub have noticeable grooves, If so your clutch may slip?

    Did you deglaze or replace the metal discs?

    Did you replace all clutch parts with NEW ones?

    What brand exactly are they ie Chinese etc?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    everglades
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    The clutch is slipping in each gear while revving the engine and then finally it moves. I believe that is caused by the manual clutch?

    I just changed it yesterday and ran it for about 20 minutes off and on so I don't believe it had enough time to get hot. I adjusted it prior to running the engine and then once I was running it. I stopped driving it because I was afraid that there was a problem with the installation and wanted to check online in case I was damaging something.

    My old clutches didn't seem too worn but the manual clutch was slipping at high speeds and then sort of died after a while. I changed the one-way clutch because it would not grab when kick starting it and decided to change the centrifugal since i was doing the other work.

    I used Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil 10w-40.

    I used emory cloth on the centrifugal clutch drum and removed the grooves which from what I could tell was just clutch material.

    I replaced the manual clutch springs and both the metal and friction plates with a new set from e-bay called Outlaw Racing (probably Chinese). I believe the set I bought was a universal set because it had 1 extra metal and friction plate which I did not install. Also soaked the plates in oil prior to installation.

    Thanks Again

  4. #4
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Hello


    They do not have to break in.

    You will burn whatever clutch is slipping if you continue to ride it.

    Your oil is not the problem

    Until someone comes along with some more ideas I would measure the total thickness of the original clutches with discs again and compare it to the new assembly. If it is more than around .020 thinner that is at least one of your problems. Also remove new spring and check height against old springs and push them with your finger to see if the new ones are noticeably lighter than the old ones. If they are and the new clutch pack thickness is ok then install old springs and try again.

    Did it slip just as much PRIOR to changing the clutch?

    So you are saying there are either NO grooves or just extremely SMALL grooves on the inside of the clutch hub?

    If you take it apart can you post photos of inside of hub and clutches etc?

  5. #5
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Hello


    You haven't answered my question regarding the CENTRIFUGAL clutches. Did you get new centrifugal clutch shoes from them also, I only saw their ad for the discs?

    Did you install ne centrifugal clutch shoes?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
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    3,415
    I've had mixed luck with replacement clutches..OEM saves having to question where the issue is.

    Since you didn't mention slipping on start from stop we can pretty much rule out the centrifugal.

    Sounds like to covered all the bases, correct oil, soaked the clutches, adjustment...etc.

    The discs may just not be to OEM spec thickness!! This happened for me on one of my 350X clutch jobs..took it back apart and put OEM in and it solved. It's a tough lesson to learn..
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    everglades
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    I'll break it down when I get some time this week and measure the spring height and plate thickness and post what I find. I'll snap some photos also

    The centrifugal shoes were replaced. I bought them from a different seller on e-bay. The packaging looked OEM to me but I did not verify the company name prior to installation.

    It did slip worse prior to the clutch swap.

    There are no grooves in the centrifugal drum currently. There were some grooves caused by the shoe material that were sanded out with emory cloth before I put the bike back together.

    I wonder if I should of installed that other friction plate and metal plate that came with the clutch kit. I checked and made sure that I installed the right number and in the right order in accordance with the Honda service manual. I read that the kit would work for a 350X and I assumed that is why there was a extra metal and friction plate.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    everglades
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    @dougspcs;

    The actual slipping occurs in each gear from the moment you push the throttle. I get a lag from the time the engine speeds up to the time the bike moves. Once the bike is moving it will still slip once I hit the gas no matter what speed or gear.

    The way I understand the centrifugal is if it is going bad you would have a difficult time putting the bike into gear from neutral to first gear and after that the manual clutch governs the way the bike responds.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    everglades
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    One other thing I noticed was that the bike operates seemingly fine in reverse for what it's worth.

  10. #10
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Hello


    Did you save the old clutches and discs so you can compare thickness?

    Do you have or can you borrow a set of calipers or mics to check thickness?

  11. #11
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildacres00 View Post
    One other thing I noticed was that the bike operates seemingly fine in reverse for what it's worth.

    Hello

    That's typically because there is less load on the clutch due to the ratio of reverse gear compared to first etc..

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    everglades
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    I did save them and I have a mic and caliper to measure them with. Really glad I didn't throw them away when I was done because I almost did. I have the extra plate I can measure in the mean time and reference that with the old plate along with the service manual until I get enough time to break it down all the way.

  13. #13
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Hello

    Most xlnt good job.

    Now here's the problem. Even if your new plate measures thinner than the old plate it doesn't mean anything because the new steel plates might simply be thicker than the original ones to compensate for the new thinner discs, tricky huh!


    Clean oily disc well at measurement point.

    If you have 1 extra fiber plate you should have one xtra metal plate, do you?

    You didn't happen to put a metal plate on LAST did you?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    everglades
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    I do have 1 extra metal plate and 1 extra fiber plate.

    The last plate I put on was a fiber plate.

    Yeah I get where you are going with the plate thickness. I for some reason remember thinking that the new metal plates seemed thicker than the old ones and that the fiber plates seemed about the same size. When I stacked the new plates I still had room for one more plate, I thought it was weird and double checked with the service manual the proper number of plates as well as there sequence.

    The more I think about it the more I believe that I am going to have to tear it apart and give it a good inspection. The question after that is do I spend 12$/plate at Bike Bandit for OEM plates or do I try to reassemble it and hope I screwed up somewhere? I paid 47$ for the new set so it's not alot of money but still it sucks to have to spend an extra 100$ for OEM.

    If I combine both of the measurements of the metal and fiber plate together and if they are greater than the service manual specs would it still be OK?

  15. #15
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Hello

    Slightly thicker is good, slightly thinner is bad but just measure them. The OVERALL assy must be equal to or greater than the original.

    Tell us what it is. Multiply the number of one disc and one plate from new and used set by the number you took out and the number you put in, what is it?

    Check the springs.

    Either find out what is wrong with what you have and fix it or buy original plates AND SPRINGS and hope this is the problem. Orig is best but what do you have now as far as total plates and thickness?

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