89 cr250r Clutch problem

**phreakboy** · 08-01-2005, 12:21 AM

I just got a 89 CR250R Dirtbike, it needed a clutch cable when I got it so I replaced that. Now whe I fully adjust the cable It still doesnt not have enough to the point to actually be able to stop the bike with the clutch squeezed. I am assuming that it needs a clutch, I have never really had one do that, all of the ones I had with clutch problems just slipped instead. How hard is it to do a clutch in one of these and does anyone know of a good place to buy the clutch and a manual?

**Red Rider** · 08-01-2005, 03:32 AM

If you're pulling in the clutch lever all the way, and the transmission is still transferring power to the rear wheel, then the clutch cable isn't adjusted properly.

**phreakboy** · 08-01-2005, 08:16 AM

Thats what I thought, but when I take the cover off where the cable attaches, the arm seems to be going up as far as it can possibly go. Thats why I was kinda confused.

**phreakboy** · 08-01-2005, 09:22 AM

I also was wondering if all of these bikes are hard to start with the kicker or what, this bike will bump start extremly easy but it seems that nobody can start this thing with the kicker. Almost 8 different people have tried with no luck, even very experienced riders can not get this thing to kick over.

**Red Rider** · 08-01-2005, 03:08 PM

If you just bought the bike, and the clutch wasn't working properly then, there's always the possibility that something is amiss in the clutch. The clutch cable may have been missing on purpose to hide a problem. Sellers ocassionally do some weird things to mislead buyers, so they can get a little more money out of them.

I looked through my Clymer CR250R service manual and noticed something right away. The '88-89 250R's have 7 clutch friction discs & 6 clutch plates, while the '90-91 250R's have 8 clutch friction discs & 7 clutch plates. It's possible that the clutch has been rebuilt and now has too many discs & plates in it causing it to not engage properly. Looking at the clutch schematic, there are also a few other things that could be missing or installed incorrectly, that could be causing your problem. Regardless, you'll need to drain the tranny oil, remove the rear brake lever & the clutch cover (6 bolts on right side) to have a look.

As for your starting difficulty, I have the same topend on my ATC's bottom end, and it's always started on 1-3 kicks. It shouldn't be much different with a CR bottom end.

**phreakboy** · 08-02-2005, 09:59 AM

Well I did just by the bike, but I dont really think that the owner was trying to hide anything, the cable was there but it was just extremley warn out and was doing more stretching than pulling. I am not sure if anyone had done anything to the clutch prior or not I know that they said it was bored out and jetted, and it has a dg front chamber and fmf pipe. I had gotten a really good deal on this bike but I really would like to figure out this clutch issue, I have never worked on one of these motors and right now I do not have a manual so I am kinda winging it until I can get one. Anything specific I should start looking for when I pull that cover off? Also what is there for tuning on these motors to make them easier to start? and what ratio fuel mixture should I be running?

**MTS** · 08-02-2005, 11:27 AM

32:1 works good, sounds like you need a new plug, and jetted properly for the hard starting.

**Red Rider** · 08-02-2005, 01:51 PM

If you're already planning on getting a manual, good decision by the way, I'd just wait to tackle this until you had one. It's not that hard without one, but it's extremely hard to judge someones mechanical ability & know how over the internet. Since you don't know that much about the bike's history, and you are looking for something that is possibly misassembled in the clutch, it would be best to wait for the manual so you'll have a parts schematic. That way, hopefully it will be somewhat obvious what is wrong when you're checking things out.

**TimSr** · 08-02-2005, 04:31 PM

Bike clutch is just like an ATV clutch, and this problem of clutch not letting go all the way has been discussed many times in the trikes forum. You only need about half a levers worth of Clutch pull to disengage it. If it does not disengage, most common cause is fingers or grooves worn into the clutchy basket. It can usually be filed down once or twice bewfore replacing basket. Another possible cause is using too heavy of an oil. Should be 10w40, 10w30, or an oil made specifically for 2 cycle trannies which are rated differently but often say around 80W or 85W. Another possbility is warped disks, but thats pretty unusual as a cause.

**OldSchoolin86** · 08-02-2005, 05:01 PM

I know there's better advice in this thread then what I'm going to say but it's happened a couple times to me. More then once I've got a machine that you just couldn't adjust a cable enough to disengage the clutch because someone else didn't put that damn little ball back in at the end of the push rod. TimSr said it, you should only need a half of a levers worth to pull a clutch. If what he suggested doesn't work make sure you check for the little ball.

**Six Stroke** · 08-02-2005, 07:45 PM

Originally Posted by OldSchoolin86

I know there's better advice in this thread then what I'm going to say but it's happened a couple times to me. More then once I've got a machine that you just couldn't adjust a cable enough to disengage the clutch because someone else didn't put that damn little ball back in at the end of the push rod. TimSr said it, you should only need a half of a levers worth to pull a clutch. If what he suggested doesn't work make sure you check for the little ball.

I've seen that before. I don't know how the hondas are, but some yammies have an adjustment right on the clutch. You have to pull the cover to get at it, but it may be there. Red Rider, does your manual show something like this?

**Red Rider** · 08-02-2005, 11:50 PM

No, there is no clutch mechanism adjustment. The only adjustment is for cable slack at the clutch lever itself.

**TimSr** · 08-03-2005, 11:44 PM

You should have a little free slop in your lever, and then you should feel it pull the springs, and begin compressing them. If you can feel your lever pull and begin compressing the springs for at least half the lever pull, it is not a cable adjustment, or an internal adjustment. Yamaha has a locking nut on a set screw, which does the same thing as a cable adjustment. Mr 250R didnt only had adjustments for cable slack. If you feel it compress, its not a cable adjustment, or an internal set screw adjustment. If the ball is missing, it will have more slack than it can take up, and you wont feel springs compress when you pull it.

To adjust cable, tighten it until there is no free slop in your lever. Then lossen it a little so you lever has a little free play, maybe a big enough crack between lever and perch to stick a nickel in.

**TeamGeek6** · 08-05-2005, 04:04 PM

Originally Posted by phreakboy

I also was wondering if all of these bikes are hard to start with the kicker or what, this bike will bump start extremly easy but it seems that nobody can start this thing with the kicker. Almost 8 different people have tried with no luck, even very experienced riders can not get this thing to kick over.

Been there, fixed that. Had a loose terminal on the CDI. Worked the ignition system over and now it starts cold with 1/2 kick ( + choke) sometimes.

Thats assuming the carbs OK, an air leak on the carb can also do it.

I have the same clutch problem on a total rebuild, one of the studs broke off the basket and I JB Welded it, it isnt right, but it works. Warped clutch plate can do that

**G-MAN-1** · 08-07-2005, 08:56 PM

check for the ball at the end of the rod. this has happened to me once or twice.adjust cable all the way in when installing a cable at all times. serios check for the ball first

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89 cr250r Clutch problem

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