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Thread: Using muriatic acid to remove rust from a gas tank

  1. #1
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    Using muriatic acid to remove rust from a gas tank

    Did a search but still have a bunch of Q's. Lets get the bases covered for anyone doing a search in the future.

    My 200x tank has a terrible, half-assed kreem job done to it. The idiot didn't remove the rust first so it's a real mess in there. Just nasty. I was planning to use muriatic acid to remove the rust.

    Will it remove the kreem as well?

    Should I dillute the acid? By how much?

    How long should I leave it in there?

    I assume it will ruin the petcock?

    Cap on or off?

    Will it instantly ruin the paint?

    When it's done soaking, then what? Poor it out? What neutralizes this stuff?

    Also, did these tanks have any kind of lining when they were new? I'd rather not use more kreem in it. I would just keep the tank full. Condensation isn't a real concern out here in the desert.

  2. #2
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    Will it (muratic acid) remove the kreem as well?

    NO. Must use acetone 1st.

    Should I dillute the acid? By how much?

    Depends how badly rusted it is. 50/50 would be a good ratio.

    How long should I leave it in there?

    As long as it takes to netralize it. Real bad ones at least 12 hours. Shine a flashlight in to inspect every few hours or so. Won't hurt if you leave it in for even longer.

    I assume it will ruin the petcock?

    You don't use the petcock. Well if it is thew screw on type then you do use it but with plastic filter tube off and put a rubber plug up hole first. If the petcock bolts in then you take it off and make a plate with a inner tube piece sandwiched between.

    Cap on or off?

    Cap off.

    Will it instantly ruin the paint?

    NO!

    When it's done soaking, then what? Poor it out? What neutralizes this stuff?

    Yep, pour it all out and flush with water to neutralize. Then rinse with acetone. You will get flash rust almost immeadiatly though so pour gas right back in once petcock is back on.

    Also, did these tanks have any kind of lining when they were new? I'd rather not use more kreem in it. I would just keep the tank full. Condensation isn't a real concern out here in the desert.

    NO, Harleys & BMW's I think come with a lining in them though.

    Hope I helped .

  3. #3
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    I thought acetone was just a neutralizing agent? That stuff will remove the kreem?

  4. #4
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    yes definetly make sure * use the acetone...i didnt and my tank is already almost as bad as it was before..reason i didnt use it is because 1. i ditn have any.. 2 i didnt have money to get any..3..im stupid and thought swishing around some 2 stroke oil would coat it and then flush it out with gas and it would be fine..well guess what..didnt work..its bad and i hate myself for it..but..it doesnt put any rust in the carb now that i ran most of it out of the tank..and yes it will ruin your petcock if you dont take it out like i did...mine is gone..all i have left is a peice of plastic and a couple o ring gaskets..lol..nothing else..its desintgrated in the acid/water...also..i used 1 gallon of the acid and 4 gallons of water..this stuff will ruin your tank if you dont be carefull about it..and ive had to jb 2 holes in the tank already...on the bottom by the petcock..they were pinholes but thats not good when * fill ** tank with 93...just take my advise...do what huffa told you..lol
    trikes owned:
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dammit!
    I thought acetone was just a neutralizing agent? That stuff will remove the kreem?
    Yea but it is no simple task! I know because I had a bad batch of kreem once (too thick) and had to take it all out! WHAT A JOB! I used gallons of it (acetone) to get it out.

    It says so right in the kreem directions to use it for removal.

    Took days of swishing and sloshing the tank around to remove it but that was the only way, I had no choice.

    My fault though as I thought it was coming out too slow but it's been years since I did one so just assumed it was that way. If it flows too slow it's a real pain to get inside tank cocverage. It will NEVER happen again to me though, thats for sure!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83185s
    yes definetly make sure * use the acetone...i didnt and my tank is already almost as bad as it was before..reason i didnt use it is because 1. i ditn have any.. 2 i didnt have money to get any..3..im stupid and thought swishing around some 2 stroke oil would coat it and then flush it out with gas and it would be fine. .well guess what..didnt work..its bad and i hate myself for it..but..it doesnt put any rust in the carb now that i ran most of it out of the tank..and yes it will ruin your petcock if you dont take it out like i did...mine is gone..all i have left is a peice of plastic and a couple o ring gaskets..lol..nothing else..its desintgrated in the acid/water...also..i used 1 gallon of the acid and 4 gallons of water..this stuff will ruin your tank if you dont be carefull about it..and ive had to jb 2 holes in the tank already...on the bottom by the petcock..they were pinholes but thats not good when * fill ** tank with 93...just take my advise...do what huffa told you..lol
    Yes, you were stupid but I respect you for being honest and sharing a laugh with us!

  7. #7
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    keep baking soda on hand so you dont wonder why the acid ate your skin. regardless of acidity, it still takes the same amount of baking soda to neutralize so dont think you have to buy pounds upon pounds to keep it in check

    1970 International 1100D, dana60 rear, dana44 front, torqueflight727 auto, 345 v8, true dual glasspack exhaust, restored from field find, the only true orange binder, aka Tank

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 70binder
    keep baking soda on hand so you dont wonder why the acid ate your skin. regardless of acidity, it still takes the same amount of baking soda to neutralize so dont think you have to buy pounds upon pounds to keep it in check

    been watching fight club, huh? lol.. ive heard alot of bad about kreem, if done correctly how long will it last??
    1983 Honda ATC 200x-shes a beater

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldshell4481
    been watching fight club, huh? lol.. ive heard alot of bad about kreem, if done correctly how long will it last??
    Forever!

    You want a nice thin coat. Usually 1/2 the bottle of kreem drains back out and you can recoat again if you feel the need too.

    Puddeling is a big no-no too. You leave set on one side 8-10 minutes then rotate tank slowly all ways (with cap back on) then set on another side & take cap off. Do all sides till satisfied it's got full coverage and drain the remainder of kreem out.

  10. #10
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    , You will have to retreat it. I dont know if this was mentioned before. But whomever took these steps previously has "etched" your tank. It will rust unless retreated.

    Kreeme works extremely well, its just an extremely anal process.
    www.3wheeler.org

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  11. #11
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    Thumbs up

    Well first off, muratic acid is already a very mild acid. Its mostly water to begin with. Put it in the tank straight out of the gallon jug. Fill it up and let it sit for about 20-30 min. It will eat all the junk and leave a nice dull gray finish. Just dump it out into a 5 gallon bucket. If you need to do it for a little longer you can dump it back in. When its done, dump it out and rinse it out with the hose pretty good. I personally then dump some baking soda in there to neutralize anything thats left in there. Then I rinse it out real good again. When thats done, I pour a good bit of acetone in there to get the water out. Then I use Redcoat to line the tank. Its much tougher and forgiveing than Kreeme. You may have to use acetone ( quite a bit ) to get that old kreeme out. I dont know if the acid will eat it or not. Hell you could try it. I have done many a tank that way. Cant beat it. The acid in the Kreeme kits is a even milder acid than muratic. They do this so the consumer doesnt burn themself and sue them. LOL. Muratic is cheap and fast
    Clay Whitman
    Newnan, GA

    AMSOIL DEALER

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  12. #12
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    This stuff (the acid) is stronger than I expected. I poured about two thirds of a gallon in at full strength and I could instantly see and even hear it cooking inside. Rust was coming right off. Accidently inhaled some of the fumes. Don't do that. Filled the tank the rest of the way with water and just letting it soak right now.

    I got the kreem out without the acetone by the way. It was such a bad job that I managed to pull the entire thing out by hand. I can't wait to see how nasty the carb is...

  13. #13
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    You guys weren't kidding about the flash rust. Did it even out here in the dry climate.

    Where do you get Redcoat at? Do you have to wait for the acetone to completely dry out before applying it?

    I'm gonna need a new gas cap too. Mine is pretty much shot.

  14. #14
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    I get mine from a autoparts store up in Mich. John Swinehart AKA Jeswinehart gets it for me. I paypal him the money for it and the shipping. Runs about $28 shipped for a qt. The acetone doesnt hurt it, just thins it a little. It leaves a nice thick red lining. Kinda like the stuff you dip plier handles in. A half a qt will do a tank. I did PatBlackwells tank with it. I was able to fix a hole the size of a ink pen with it. GOOD STUFF! Pats tank has about a 1/8 inch think liner in it. Kreeme is crap in my book and many other peoples. Redcoat is the bomb. PM John and see if he can get you some. Just send him the money. I cant find it down here in GA. Check around your area if you want. It was originally made for Aircraft tanks. Thats why its so readily available in the midwest ( Lot of aircraft type stuff goes on up there). By the way, The muratic acid is tough, but it wont hurt a thing. Just dont leave it in there for too long. Monitor it. Its good to put it in there strong because ANY potential holes will show up. THen you can fix them. Instead of messing around and a month or two and then suddenly a leak forms. Pain in the butt. Especially if you have painted the tank. PM John. Tell him Clay sent ya.
    Clay Whitman
    Newnan, GA

    AMSOIL DEALER

    My Toys

    2008 Yamaha Rhino 700 SE

    1999 Larson 226 SEI 5.0L EFIVolvo I/O LOVE IT

  15. #15
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    As Clay mentioned above, use baking soda to neutralize the acid prior to doing a final flush or the acid will continue to eat away at the welds/seams.
    Current Ride (Purchased new in Oct. 84) - 1985 Honda ATC 250R w/ ESR 310cc big bore kit
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