1983 Yamaha Tri Moto YTM200E ??

[mx_599]

I am about to restore one of these. Can anyone help me confirm what I have via a VIN? I will post photo in a few minutes. I need to start searching for parts and shop manual.
Are these also known as Yamahauler? I have front and rear racks.
Shaft drive
Approx 200cc
Decal near non existent but looks like 1983
Electric and pull start

Thank you

[mx_599]

24W - 005642

This is what reads on headtube
I cannot upload photo? Is there file size limit of jpeg?

[shortline10]

Model: YTM200E Year: 1983 Country(s): USA CANADA OCEANIA VIN from: 24W000101 to VIN 24W100000

Link to decode the old style vins

https://impreso.no/yamaha/9vin/index.php

[mx_599]

Thank you very much. I hope to share my experience in thread here. I already have major problem. Seized front axle!!! Just the side of nut is seized I think. The nut is off. I ordered some Kroil. I tried heat, no kroil yet.
I am afraid the axle will get ruined or the fork lower.

I do have fairly large hydro press but dont really think I can set up to use it with wheel and forks. I cut the tire off. It was more than shot

I also have to split cases to fix broke shift shaft. So I will redo and replace whatever and send cylinder out if needs be etc

[ATC King]

Seized front axles are somewhat common, on many machines.

Patience is your best tool. Try something, take a break, maybe leave it be for a week while thinking about it.

Sometimes, it comes down to what parts are sacrificial, despite your best efforts.

I think what gets many, if not most of them hung up is the bearing spacer. That's not a big deal if they're already out of the forks, as in depending on how the the axle is attached and if the forks can be disassembled to get the wheel off. That just leaves knocking the whole axle, bearing and all out the side of the hub it can come out of. Not the side that has a nut or axle head left on it, that hub bearing lip won't allow it to go through the hub.

If it's actually seized in the fork legs, that's more difficult. It may help to remove the fork so you can lay the whole assembly on it's side, so penetrant can pool and soak in instead of running off. Pop the outer bearing seals loose if possible and do the same with some penetrant.

You're correct, that's an awkward thing to set up in a press. Really need two people to do it unless building some sort of jig to hold it all true.


It's a good idea to look for replacement parts and their cost if it gets to the point you're fairly certain something will break and you have any control over what part that may be. It's not just that rust and corrosion has it seized, it's that it's mechanical when bad enough, the two pieces are just about one. I've got a couple parts I've taken a stab at for years, trying to save everything. I'll forget about them, then rediscover, and spend a little bit of time working. At some point I'll just start hacking away at the least expensive pieces to save what I can instead of ruining all of it.

I'm talking using air s, presses, the whole lot and nothing has budged. In the end, way more time spent than any of it's worth. It's just a matter of accomplishment now.


Good luck. I hope most of what I said is wasted and you get it apart and still usable. It's certainly frustrating when there's more involved and technical things to repair.