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Thread: Moved to the Yellow Side

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,286
    Better late than never?

    Here's the carb I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/352833593996

    I can't give a solid answer on a OEM carb rebuild kit. Being these are all so old machines, there's not telling what type of ham fisting went on or how much wear is actually on the original carb. Keeping in mind that the new Chinese carbs are most likely going to need the jetting fiddled with and may not even run correctly with stock size jets, I've been very satisfied with them and the price. Just expect to double the purchase price to include some new OE jets to get it right.

    Carbs are simple, but with nearly 40 years of unknown history on most of these trikes, it can take some serious cleaning, inspection, and experience to sort out even the original carbs.

    If the idle mixture screw on yours is trashed, there's a very good change someone over tightened it and ruined the seat in the carb body. That idle screw is harder than the carb body. When that happens, there isn't a straightforward/simple way to repair it.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,286
    I rode the YTM200 some yesterday. I keep thinking it'd be the first to go if I sell one, but every time I ride it, I remember why I still have it.

    The 250R forks were a huge improvement though, as far as ride quality. The springs may be a little weak, but with all the sag and total travel, the front tire just glides over things (when it's on the ground).

    It would be nice if the correct recoil cover was on it and the auto decomp worked.

    What'd really be nice is if Maier made front and rear fenders for it. First little oopsy I have, these are toast.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,286
    Just reading over this older thread and forgot how much work I put into the 200K.

    Not a restoration or total rebuild, but to just get it dependable for trail riding took quite a bit and I forgot.


    It's been a couple months since I rode it. Need to do that tomorrow.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

  4. #64
    patriot1 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Palestine, AR
    --
    380
    I enjoyed this thread when you were building it. Glad that you still have it.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    --
    2,286
    Thanks.

    I've still got some other plans for upgrades and changes.

    I've been looking at converting the rear brake to hydraulic, while keeping most of it stock, using the factory caliper bracket just not the mechanism.

    It would be easy enough to have a custom made caliper half, but the cost for a one-off piece would be rather high. I'd buy a properly sized piston and seals, then just have the body machined from aluminum.

    I've looked to see if it's been done before, but haven't found anything. The reason, like I need one, is the rear brake pedal on a YTM200 is just hanging out in the breeze, easily snagged and bent if riding through a thicket. The stock rear brake has enough power, I'd just like to get rid of the pedal and move operation to the bars. Not having a clutch leaves the left side of the bars wide open for that and many auto-clutch trikes already have the rear park brake lever there anyway, which seems a little redundant to have two separate controls for one brake. All that cable mess to have a pedal and hand lever attached to one mechanical brake arm can be problematic as they age and wear.


    I have found a part that may be pretty close to bolt-on. I'll just have to buy that and try, with the biggest issue being whether or not it'll match up well with a master cylinder. The question is will the lever travel be too short or long and if the feel is dead or much too powerful.

    I've got a hydraulic rear disc on my 185, hand actuated. That works great and it's one less mechanical thing to keep clean and adjusted. Hydraulic brakes self adjust and there's no lever pivot down low to keep clean and lubricated.

    My 200ES has the stock front brake but I've installed a hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinder to actuate it. More power, easier to pull, and no more adjustments.

    I've had mechanical disc brakes on bicycles too, and they're the same, requiring periodic adjustments. Hydraulic is just a better way and because most people will neglect cable maintenance, hydraulic will function better, longer, and if the fluid changes are kept up, hydraulic is problem free for decades.

    If it ain't broke, fix it until it is.
    The story of three wheels and a man...

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