Moved to the Yellow Side

[ATC King]

I've determined there's a leak in the '83 YTM200 manifold at the carb. I'll get everything going OK, then next day it's not.

Being this is a first year deal and I've got the later manifold on the spare engine, I'm going to try swapping to the bolt on manifold and carb. I've ordered a Chinese carb. We'll see.

The carb had the stock jets, but it was loading up, which makes me think they were drilled out. No idea, but parts for this '83 YTM are like hen's teeth. Not like I'm used to with the Hondas. If it's ignition issues, I might drop the whole trike in a vat of acid to fix it.

While I was looking at optional carburetors I came across this...FUXU PWK 30mm Carburetor Carb For Keihin Koso OKO Carburetor Universal Dirt Bike Motorcycle Scooter ATV https://www.keihincarburetor.com/fux...e-scooter-atv/


Will a FUXU carb do me right? All night long?



Also, the dirt bike bars weren't doing it (too low and not enough pullback), so I got some Pro Taper Raptor bars. When they come in, I'll post.

[MrConcdid]

Now, look what you made me do. I had a hard fast rule ONLY Honda's, but right between these 2 Big Reds set this blue thing. I had to buy it as a packaged deal. I ain't changing teams (not that there is anything wrong with that), I'm just saying.

I got home late in the rain, I haven't even unloaded them yet, after 24 years of neglect, 1 more night shouldn't kill them.
Just parts bikes, I didn't have any 250es parts bikes, I do now and this Blue thing, I think its a 84/85 200e Yamaha? not sure, never saw one before today.
I had a tractor job and near where these were being sold, I had to make it home in one trip. Look closely, a 72 inch front bucket, spare, jack, tool box, extra fluids, and 3 -3 wheeler's, try that in a regular truck bed, gotta love a flatbed dually.

MrC.

[ATC King]

The blue Yamahas look pretty cool. That one looks frozen.

I wonder if the front rack will fit my 200.

[ATC King]

I got the new handlebars in and they're what I was expecting, perfect for the trike. The are the Raptor bend, the tallest bars they had and I think with the most pullback. My experience with these type of bars is they are much, much, much harder to bend in a crash than carbon steel and especially stock Honda bars. They still have a good bit of flex which can be seen by standing and pushing down on them.

The YTM bar mounts face more backwards than upwards, so with the 1-1/8 bar adapters, they're even farther back and a little higher. Cables and and wires are fine, not stretched tight.

I usually buy the carbon steel Moose Racing ATV High bars, and the dimensions work well on the trikes, but they do bend fairly easily. No as easily as OE, non-crossbar Honda bars, but still pretty easy.



I was hooking the front brake back up, but only had a Honda brake hose that was too long for the YTM. Does anyone know the part number for a 1983 YTM200 front brake hose? I can't find one online.

[ATC King]

Made a little more progress. I got the Chinese carb installed. It looks pretty dang good compared to what I thought it was going to be. I ordered some stock jets (don't have yet). Still has some mid throttle running issues, like a stumble. I haven't ruled out the ignition.


I got a decent length brake hose. I guess it was for a blue Yamaha.?


The clutch...is sucking some money. I was hoping the spare engine had a good centrifugal clutch, but HELL NO! Apparently the spring had come apart inside the drum, some time ago, as evident by the notches worn into the clutch. This is exactly how it looked when I pulled it out (pic is of the backside).



I've ordered all new clutches, both of them. I'm not popping the cover until I have some new parts in hand.

The spare engine is probably only good for case parts, if even that (chain got into the left side). The oil filter was covered in grey and had hole in it. Will probably fully dismantle and put into a box what's useable.

[El Camexican]

I was hooking the front brake back up, but only had a Honda brake hose that was too long for the YTM. Does anyone know the part number for a 1983 YTM200 front brake hose? I can't find one online.

What front do you have on that trike??? That’s not a YTM hub or forks. They came with cable operated drums mounted on the left side.

Versa oil filters are on eBay and a Timberwolf centrifugal clutch works. I think you might need to use some of the YTM mounting hardware, but I can’t remember what exactly. A washer, spacer or nut maybe? It’s been years since I put one on, you’ll figure it out.

[ATC King]

I've already got some oil filters, and I did order the ATV style clutch, which looks like a better design.

'81-'82 250R forks and front hub/disc. 30mm, just like the YTM ones, slid into the YTM trees. I need to slide them up a little to get the steering right. I was waiting for someone to say something Dropping hints like cluster bombs.

I had them laying around for something else, but then I got this YTM and started looking at it and them...

Master cylinder is XR600R (already had it), caliper is a Ebay Chinese special that was real close to a 250R front one (much less expensive). I made a caliper bracket and used a 185S or 200S front wheel I had around. Just got the brake hose in a couple days ago (Ebay special).

Full disc brake hardtail baby!

[ATC King]

Waiting on parts. 90% of what I'm ordering isn't being delivered on time, through any of the carriers. I'm not making ANY more orders through the OEM retailers this year, it's taking a month to get parts through them.


I've been playing with the jetting and needle, but there is a certain RPM, no matter if I bang on it or creep up to it, it cuts out like an ignition issue for a second or two, then resumes running. The CDI must have advancing built into it, because there is no mechanical advance like on the 200cc Hondas. It seems like a certain RPM is triggering the problem, and it's at some advance point, like some circuitry is bad, maybe a capacitor or resistor. I'll order a used OEM CDI and try that. If that solves it, I'm gong to buy a Chinese CDI to test so I have options for a inexpensive, new CDI.

[ATC King]

I got to work on the clutch today. And...someone has been in there before and didn't tighten things.

The nuts on the primary and secondary clutches were completely loose, not even hand tight. The only thing keeping them in place were the locking tabs. The clutches don't look completely shot, so

The bolts in the clutch basket look factory, but bottom out before completely tightening. Not sure what's up there, but going to fix that.

I have a Timberwolf/YTF clutch for it, but neglected to research further and need a different washer and locking ring. I bought a new locking ring for the YTM200 clutch, but that won't work. After looking for some answers, I found this thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ch-info-update

I'll get those parts on the way. Maybe they'll be here by next month.

The clutch I pulled out was at minimum thickness, but looks OK. Same for the clutch plates, which basically look new. Whoever was in it last, at least used a Yamaha gasket and didn't smear silicone all over the thing, so it came off easy, without having to scrape for an hour.

I'm not really sure why the clutch was acting up. Maybe they put some automotive oil in that didn't agree with it. Regardless, I was suspect of what was under the cover, and the loose nuts confirmed that.

I haven't done much but spend money and work on it. I may name it Gomer Pile, yes, with an I, because it's starting to be a real pile of crap. I found some JB Weld on the stator cover after pressure washing it, to get ready to look at the clutch. Chain damage.

I think I also learned the oil filter cover won't come of without taking the right rear wheel off, because there is one really long bolt in the cover. Yamaha, what the hell?

[El Camexican]

I have a Timberwolf/YTF clutch for it, but neglected to research further and need a different washer and locking ring. I bought a new locking ring for the YTM200 clutch, but that won't work. After looking for some answers, I found this thread http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...ch-info-update

I don't remember exactly what I did, but between the parts that came with the clutch and what was with the trike originally I made it all fit.

I think I also learned the oil filter cover won't come of without taking the right rear wheel off, because there is one really long bolt in the cover. Yamaha, what the hell?

From what little I can recall from the day you can probably thank Honda's patent lawyers for the location of that bolt as well as your non-stop wheelies. Yamaha likely employed more lawyers than engineers to build that trike and the result is a very front light trike with a weird frame.

However, you may take solace in knowing that unlike ALL THE HONDAS EVER MADE your gas tank will never rust out or dent and when you run out of gas, you're really out of gas!

[ATC King]

However, you may take solace in knowing that unlike ALL THE HONDAS EVER MADE your gas tank will never rust out or dent and when you run out of gas, you're really out of gas!

While true, and good in many ways, it also means the tank has to be completely empty to take off without spilling gas all over the trike. Fuel tank crossover tubes have their downside.

Another benefit of the Yamaha design though, is the plastic fuel tank is covered by another plastic...cover. The fuel tank itself is very protected from sun damage and knee abrasion.

[El Camexican]

While true, and good in many ways, it also means the tank has to be completely empty to take off without spilling gas all over the trike. Fuel tank crossover tubes have their downside.

Another benefit of the Yamaha design though, is the plastic fuel tank is covered by another plastic...cover. The fuel tank itself is very protected from sun damage and knee abrasion.

You’re right, completely draining the tank can be a pain in the azz, but it’s never a bad idea to completely drain the tank once in a while.

Good thing is there’s not a lot of reasons to have to take that tank off.

[ATC King]

Alright, I've got the clutches back in. Waiting on a gasket to put the cover back on. Stupid Yamaha has two pieces to the clutch cover, and stupid me ordered the wrong gasket the first time.

Here's the skinny on the upgraded primary clutch (centrifugal):

At the bare minimum, there are three parts to change, the clutch, washer (between clutch and one way bearing), and the lock washer.

CLUTCH CARRIER ASSY (available aftermarket for less than half the price)
4BD-16620-00-00

WASHER, PLATE
90201-404M6-00

WASHER, LOCK
90215-22259-00

All of those parts span from the early 1980's into the early 2000's. Pretty cool. Entire, used clutch assemblies are plentiful and inexpensive on EBay right now. Most are from later quads. I'd still want to use a new lock washer. Those tabs don't like being bent twice and a chuck of loose steel floating around in the engine isn't a good thing.


Pictures, old style on left, new style on right.


One thing to note, is the new drum isn't the riveted construction of the old one, but it fits the same. They are also currently available, new, for less than $150. Guys and gals, if you plan to keep a YTM in the stable, that's going to be something you'll want to have around for later and it's not a bad price for a new major part. I got one of the last few Honda ATC clutch drums, and should have bought at least one more before Honda quite selling them. NOS will drive the prices higher.

The one way bearing, the bearing collar, the nut, the washer that goes between the drum and crankshaft, those are all the same parts as the early YTM stuff, so it all swaps. Way to go Yamaha!



Now something cool and unexpected. Maybe a performance gain.

I weighed the old style and updated assemblies. These are used, so weights are approximate. The old assembly, 4lb 9.8oz. The new, 3lb 15oz.

That's over half a pound less of rotating mass on the crankshaft!


Back to "the bare minimum" part. The number of grooves in the clutch is different between the two. Technically, the old drum can be used, but because used parts have wear and the worn grooves of the old drum are fewer than the new, parts won't mesh right and available surface for clutch friction will be reduced. I don't know the effect it will have on clutch holding power, it's just something to think about. Buying an entire used assembly will cancel that out, as the parts are worn together. At least buying a new style, used drum, will have similar groove patterns to match a new aftermarket clutch.

Or, just buy a new drum and don't worry about it for the next 30 years.


In a Columbo voice...Just one more thing. The aftermarket clutch was difficult to fit. These are available on EBay and Amazon. The problem was it would go partially on and get stuck. I had to use a Dremel with a sanding drum on the teeth, a little at a time, and it eventually went on, still tighter than the OE clutch though. The more I test fit it, the easier it went on, but still a bit of a problem. For less than half the price, not really a problem.

The new aftermarket clutch isn't in any of the pictures. I use all the OE stuff for comparison.

[ATC King]

A week and a half later, the clutch cover gasket finally arrived.

I got it buttoned up today and boy does it feel good just to have something working like it should. All new clutches and it's rocking and rolling. It's sounding better too, because those loose clutch nuts were causing a rattle under certain loads.

There was also a part in backwards, that I discovered just before putting the cover on. Part #14 (pretty gosh darn important)


Remember, the clutch was out of adjustment when I first seen this trike at the sellers house. There is a lip on the center of that part, and being backwards (lip's supposed to face in), the ramp function that it's designed to provide to release the clutch, was more apt to hold the clutch open because the lip on the wrong side made the whole assembly wider than what it's supposed to be.

I worriedly looked for anymore questionable wrenching after that and before putting the cover on. Too much crap was wrong under this clutch cover. I'm sure this entire trike has had a bunch of hands on and in it that didn't have the Midas touch.


It's too hot to be dicking with this thing all day, so I called it quits after a short ride to make sure the clutches were functioning properly. Although, I did take the sparkplug cap off to test if it had a good resistor in it, and it did. I was concerned it was just a straight through plug cap, because it looks like Chinese aftermarket. Though it may be jacking with the CDI. Ruled that out. I've got to get onto sorting out the running next, but it seems to be better now. I've got that used CDI to try on it. If nothing else, it'll be nice to have a spare one.

Sliding the forks up about an inch made it steer better. I may still slide them up some more. I've still got to get a working tail light and add that voltage regulator. Depending if I keep this one, I may convert it to DC.

[ATC King]

I got around to messing with the carb yesterday. It's the Chinese carb that I swapped over the the later style YTM on this 200K.

The carb itself is pretty nice, but the jetting was way too lean. I bought the stock size jets that many of the YTM use with the later carb, 25/112.5. That actually turned out to be a little too rich in this application. Fuel screw set at half turn, so the pilot is borderline rich, but this was at 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit, so I'm going to leave it. Should be better at colder temps, and I do have a 20 if not.

I drilled one of the Chinese main jets to about a 110, but it still loads up on the very, very top. Going to drop that a little more, but, cooler weather and it will get better. I really don't want to get it spot on in these temps, because once it cools off to the point I'm riding more, it won't be spot on anymore.

Otherwise, it's running really good now. The counterbalanced engine is definitely noticeable compared to my Hondas and this engine seems to be in better condition than any of them. Very quiet, just the valves ticking away. Still has that factory fresh whine sound.

The biggest reason it's running so good now, is I found out why the main jet that should have been running lean, was severely loading up past mid throttle. It wasn't the ignition. I've been wanting to get the bore scope after it and finally done that yesterday.

Take a guess what the porblem was.