Moved to the Yellow Side

[El Camexican]

I recognize those mounts. Cut mine off when I modified the bar to hold a rack. Does your lower triple tree have mounts as well? I always wondered if they went through the trouble of making a different set of dies just for the American models.

[ATC King]

The lower triple has some bumps on the side, which look like they could be machined for threads.

I looked all over EBay at other lower clamps, and some from that northern country, but there weren't any good pictures of that area. It looks like the option is cast in, but not machined on the US models; as best as I can tell.


I'm just wondering if it'll end up on top of me when I overextend the first gear wheelies now. With that rack thing, it was perfect and would just stop with the front wheel up and me rolling off the back so I could get it back down. It certainly doesn't need a rear rack. I could actually stand behind it, push down on the rack, and the front tire would come right up. At most, a six-pack of some type. A OEM front rack would be perfect on this recreational hardtail YTM.

I'm still undecided about keeping it, but the more I work on it, and the more I look up parts, I see that a lot of the bigger/pricier parts are still available (at this time). That taillight assembly is still available new for ~$45.

I'm thinking the Yamaha recreational/utility trikes are next on many peoples list as the Honda prices have gone through the roof. All the sport trikes are up there in price, so I think those are a wash and comes down to preference.

It'd be nice If the front fender was still available from Yamaha. A NOS one sold on EBay a little while back for ~$220 (shipping not included). I'm wondering if the Tri-Z Maier fender will fit.

[ATC King]

Anyone wanting to, needing to, replace the stock exhaust baffle in one of these, Caltric sells one for about half the price of OEM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Muf...sAAOSwb1Nc0zEo


The muffler on mine isn't completely trashed, so I decided to put a new baffle in it. Before removing the old one, I had already seen the OEM baffle was still available for ~$60, that way I wasn't up a creek ruining the old one while removing it, in an effort to save the muffler. The muffler has some rust, but the baffle was the worst part and it's didn't come through the extraction unscathed. While looking at exhaust on EBay, I found this Caltric brand replacement.

The stock muffler isn't exactly loud without the baffle, but without it, there's not a spark arrestor. Being still available new, it's worth buying one, only if to put it away (just in case).



It didn't come with a new bolt, but it's just a typical size metric bolt and I had one laying around.

Taking the old one out, I had a bit of a hard time, because it was rusted in there pretty good and the main objective was to not destroy the muffle while doing it. The new baffle didn't fit very tight into the muffler, but I'm sure the muffler exit is a little wider than it would have been new, or at least with less rust.

[El Camexican]

I think the stock baffles are pressed in before bolting. Even when the trikes were brand new the removal presses was of a destructive nature.

I’ll post a photo of a northern triple clamp in a bit.

[El Camexican]

You can see the threaded hole on the lower clamp.

[ATC King]

Confirmed: That looks the same as the US lower clamp, it just has the mounts drilled and threaded. So, Yamaha used the same lower clamp, but saved a few pennies on the states version, or charged those northerners extra for the bicycle reflectors.

That pic must have been from when you bought it new. Super Nice!



I did look the baffle over real good before removing it, checking for spot welds, as is common on other motorcycle and ATV OE baffles that have a retaining bolt. Not finding any, I got to tugging away on it, but the baffle had some rust holes, along with the muffler, and I just figured it was really jammed in there from years of use and abuse.

It's good to know they're like that new and trying to remove even a pristine one may result in damaging the baffle. The Caltric one just slid in by hand. I did take a large pair of locking pliers and tried to shrink the outlet around the new one.

The new one got a thorough coating of anti-seize before installation. At some point, I'll likely remove the entire exhaust and repaint it. It won't fit into my blasting cabinet since it's one piece, so I'll have to fill the pressure blaster and do it outside.

[El Camexican]

Photo was taken in 2010 after I rescued it.

We removed the baffles as kids with a screwdriver and expecting an easy 30hp gain with no other mods as confirmed with our very precise neighborhood noiseonometer.

I have a really nice OEM pipe that came with the baffle still in it. I tried to remove it in order to inspect and paint it and realized pretty quick that I’d probably end up damaging it.

[ATC King]

[QUOTE=El Camexican;1516445]
We removed the baffles as kids with a screwdriver and expecting an easy 30hp gain with no other mods...[QUOTE]

You needed the No Fear stickers to notice the power gains.




If these are like other baffles and OEM mufflers, they're supposed to be periodically removed to empty any carbon buildup from the spark arrestor. Like on some of the older Honda XR motorcycles, which had a port or two on the muffler bottom that were removed, then the baffle blocked with a rag, and the engine revved up a few times to blow any junk out.

That was the main reason I wanted to get it out to start with, as I was still trying to sort the engine problems out and wanted to nix exhaust restriction from the equation.

[El Camexican]

You needed the No Fear stickers to notice the power gains.

I wish. I was already in my 30’s when those stickers came out and knew better. I’m from the big red white and blue USA sparkly # 1 and “Ass, Grass or Ass, nobody rides for free” decal generation.

[ATC King]

At least you were probably smart enough by the time of barbed wire and 'tribal' tattoos to avoid those also.

The hippie slogans and iconography are still popular, so I guess they withstood the test of time. No so much for tramp stamps that are growing hair now.

[ATC King]

I just repaired the headlight bracket on my YTM200E.

Someone had tried to repair it in the past, and it looks like they used a buzz box.

No after pictures, because everyone knows what a weld repair looks like, but here are a few before pics, as it came off and after blasting.



After a bunch of light welding and grinding, it did get some fresh paint and the headlight is back to shining where it needs to.

I've been meaning to get to this, because the headlight wouldn't adjust and was pointing just a few feet in front of the trike. I was planning to do a night ride and had to take care of it.

After a bunch of light welding and grinding, it did get some fresh paint and the headlight is back to shining where it needs to.

The thing I noticed, is on the later YTMs or the larger ones, like the 225 models, they appear to use the same bracket (with a key switch and neutral light holes drilled) and added reinforcing plates to the area that mine had cracks.

I'm guessing this was an early issue they had and Yamaha beefed up the later ones. I didn't add anything extra to mine, just stuck it all back together with a MIG. If it breaks again, I'll add some plates.

One for a 225 that's on EBay, for comparison. They also have more junk on them and that may be the only reason Yamaha beefed them up...or not.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Yamaha...temCondition=4


Easy enough to just buy the later version, especially if someone wanted to add a key switch, and maybe find a use for the two light holes, like adding a high beam indicator. I can't confirm if they're interchangeable though, as far as mounting to the top clamp. The large D shaped hole on either of them is for the enricher cable.

[TrikeKid]

Anyone wanting to, needing to, replace the stock exhaust baffle in one of these, Caltric sells one for about half the price of OEM.

Hey any chance I can get a rough outside diameter measurement on that baffle? The baffle for the 175's is unobtanium at the moment, but that looks close enough to be adapted and save me making a spark arrester.

[ATC King]

47mm diameter, near the end/outlet, not measuring the short flare at the very tip, but the section that slips into the muffler.

~185mm total length.

[ATC King]

My YTM200 had a ticking noise once it go warmed up, even though I had gone over the valve clearance and cam chain tension.

I think I figured it out. The intake valve inspection cover was upside down and the valve lifter was slightly contacting an inside feature. They can indeed be put on either way, but the cover has a shallow and deep side. There's also a small protruding feature that looks a bit like an arrow and that's supposed to be at the top. When upside down, there is some contact which will make noise.

Smooth as buttah now. Derp.

There seemed be a more recent post about valve noise on one of these, but I couldn't find it to reply.

[Royster]

Howdy,
What carb model/size is this? I have an '84 200L and it has a Mikuni 26mm (intake) carb. It has 21V 00 stamped on it. I'm having a hard time finding parts for it. The mixture screwhead is trashed and I can't really adjust it. The one in your photo looks close to the one I have. Just wondering if that rebuild kit would work for my carb. Thanks!