Exhaust valve adjustment??

[bmark0610]

I'm about to adjust the valves and I am curious as to how you're supposed to cram a wrench, screwdriver, and feeler guage in the exhaust valve area??

The frame looks like its in the way and very tight! Any tricks??

[Dirtcrasher]

Take the feeler gauge out of the stack of them, .003 right?? or whatever....

Bend it so it will fit in.

Loosen the 10mm nut, turn the square headed bolt by fingers and set it a bit loose. Tighten the nut down and the bolt will turn making it tighter (clearance wise).

Figure out just how much to leave the square bolt loose to get the right gap and you'll be all set.

MUST bend a gauge!! You can use shim stock or long feeler gauges like Mcmaster sells.....

[bmark0610]

I'm not sure that there are any "square bolts"??!!

I have been watching this video: https://youtu.be/IHeIXalJ9N8

Looks like he doesn't even use the feeler gauge. This vid also doesn't show the exhaust valve adjustment (the rear one), which I am most concerned about. It's a VERY tight space.

[TwiZ]

The rear one,if its above the carb,is the intake valve. They both adjust the same at 3 thousandths. To adjust the way he does takes practice and a bit of experience. I loosen the 10mm nut,(i took a 10mm wrench and bent it to make it easier),back nut up a few turns while holding screw,then i loosen the screw.Slide your 3thousandths feeler in,turn the screw down till you get some drag on feeler.Then take a stubby flathead,hold screw,then turn the 10mm down w finger till you cant any more with your finger,with gauge still inthere and holding w screwdriver,then hold screwdriver tight to keep it from turning while you tighten the 10mm. Check to see if there is a tad bit of drag again,and your done. Takes some practice and patience, but ive seen some pretty big sausage sized fingers do this,just gotta be patient. And make sure your at tdc on comp.stroke,both valves should be a little loose

[oscarmayer]

He is at a different spot. He needs to be on the T not the F.



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[bmark0610]

Well I went ahead and adjusted the valves and its still making the same "ticking noise". Weird though it only makes the noise once the engine is warmed up and gets louder after it is...

Here's a video. Any thoughts?

https://youtu.be/B2RvSaTC14g

[shortline10]

Try running straight 40w or even 50w motorcycle oil non synthetic . That's what I use on the excessively noisy motors that come they my shop .

[Scootertrash]

Did you adjust the cam chain too?

[yaegerb]

^that or it's time to check valve springs and crank play. Almost sounds like excessive lash to me.

[bmark0610]

Did you adjust the cam chain too?

Is the cam chain and timing chain the same thing?

[Rob Canadian]

Is the cam chain and timing chain the same thing?

Yes it is.

[barnett468]

I wouldn't use straight weight heavy oil in Massachusetts in the middle of winter, besides, 20w-50 is basically the same viscosity as straight 50w once both reach operating temperature.


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[bmark0610]

Then yes I did adjust the cam/timing chain. To be honest I didn't really notice the sound until after I adjusted it.

But that could have been because the timing chain was much louder then that noise?

When you first fire up the machine you don't hear the noise and it all sounds great, but the more you ride it and warm up the engine the noise seems to get louder and louder.

Not sure whats going on with it...

[Dirtcrasher]

Go back and adjust them making sure "T" is at the compression stroke...

[bmark0610]

Go back and adjust them making sure "T" is at the compression stroke...

When adjusting the valves should the line on the threads be be at the F, ⫯, or T?

Please view the pic and tell me if this is the correct position to adjust the valves.