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Thread: '85 200X XR carb/intake fitment

  1. #1
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    '85 200X XR carb/intake fitment

    Many of you are using an XR carb on your 200X's. Did you guys come across the issue of fitting the boot on the carb due to the upper shock mount bolt? Im using the correct intake as far as i know, according to all the posts ive read through here. The carb and intake are both off of a '91 XR200.. The angle for the carb, everything looks right, it was just extremely close between the upper shock mount bolt, and the carb/intake joint spot. I actually had to grind the head of the bolt down to get it to work. I WAS able to get it mounted, but man it was a biotch. Anyone else have this issue?

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    Btw it is a keihin pd97A carb and intake is part # 16210-kt0-000

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    Also, how were you guys able to get the XR throttle cable out so you could use the Stock 200x cable? Its like the carburetor cap and cable are integrated. Theres a brass fitting in the carb cap that doesnt come off so you can switch cables. Odd, ive never seen it before. I guess that why the 86-02 XR carbs on ebay all either had no cap, or they came with the throttle cable haha. And i cant use the XR cable, bc its too long. Im at work now, can take a few pictures later when i get off

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    Heres a couple pics of what i was talking about.
    Tight fit!!! Click image for larger version. 

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    And here, the XR throttle Cable is integrated into the carburetor cap. Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	231185. Now, i have solutions already to both of the problems. Obviously i managed to get the carb and boot to fit next to the shock mount, but damnit man it was tight even after grinding the head of the shock bolt down some. And for the cable, i havent done the mod yet, but im just gonna clip the XR cable, and then drill just big enough through the brass fitting in the cap, so i am able to get the end of the 200X cable through it. I suppose i could just buy a cap for an earlier XR carb that doesnt have the integrated cap/cable deal, but im gonna try my way first and save some shipping time and added cost.

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    you know, you could have used a ebay mikuni 26or even a 28mm if you have a big enough cam, exhaust, port work and 12:1 piston and been better off. all you do then is take the carb and throttle with the cable to a old school bike shop and have them make the cable to fit the carb. $25 later your set and done. total invested in a custom setup $110 + any jet kit needed add that $150 and you got one hell of a setup with jets and everything!!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarmayer View Post
    you know, you could have used a ebay mikuni 26or even a 28mm if you have a big enough cam, exhaust, port work and 12:1 piston and been better off. all you do then is take the carb and throttle with the cable to a old school bike shop and have them make the cable to fit the carb. $25 later your set and done. total invested in a custom setup $110 + any jet kit needed add that $150 and you got one hell of a setup with jets and everything!!!
    Yeah im not that far into this trike. I have 10.25:1 wiseco, stock airbox, moose filter, and DG exhaust. The carb and intake cost me like $50 total + a few jets. What i ended up doing with the cable was i just used the XR cable thats integrated into the lid. I unsoldered the end that goes into the carb slide, chopped off about 65mm and re-soldered it on. Works like a champ. First i tried the 118 and it was breaking up some at WOT, so i put a 115 in to try it and somehow managed to snap the threads off the jet. Didnt even put much force on it at all. Genuine keihin jet, poof. Jet snapped. So now I have the stock 110 main in, and went up to a 40 on the pilot. Needle on 2nd from bottom. Air screw out 2 turns. It runs ok. Not great. Idles great, has a little bog if i give the throttle a quick stab though. WOT seems to run well. Havent done any plug chops yet but will be tomorrow hopefully. First time jetting for me so im still learning.

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    i bet your 1 size off and need to bump 1 up from stock.
    i use piano wire drill bits to re-size my jets. find the wire that is the exact size of the stock jet y test fitting, then jump to the next larger sized wire and drill it with that. to drill it out, i use needle nosed pliers to hold the wire and manually twist the jet till the drill bit punches through. the bit sets are like $4 shipped off eBay.
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    Ok guys. Help me get this carb dialed in. First let me say, yes, i have read through the jetting sticky, and EVERY jetting thread on this site. Literally. Every single one. I think im close, but need just a little input. My only mods are, full DG exhaust, moose filter, stock air box, 10.25:1 Wiseco, and XR200 carb. Right now i have a 40 pilot, 118 main, pilot screw at 1 turn, needle at 2nd from bottom(2nd richest). Up top its nice and crisp at WOT. Although my plug tells me im a little lean. I will try a 120 if the weather clears up. My question is aimed more towards the lower end. From idle to quick half throttle stab. It wants to cut out. If i have it idling a little higher, its not as bad, but still some bog. My pilot screw goes anywhere from a 1/4 turn out to 3 turns out without much change. Idle goes up when im around 2 turns then starts to hesitate at 3 turns. So the fact that i can take it all the way to 1/4 turn in almost closed, and the needle at 2nd slot from bottom, would i be correct in assuming im still lean at the pilot even with the 40? So maybe bump it up to a 42 so i can get the needle back in the center? If i can put my needle at the richest setting and it gets better, am i safe to assume i can bump the pilot up? Or is a needle change necessary? The needle is oem to the carb. The pilot and main are brand new genuine keihin jets. Any input is appreciated. Thanks

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    Ok after reading some more, im actually thinking my pilot is too rich. Because it starts easily from stone cold, with no choke. And the pilot going all the way in to 1/4 turn before dying. I had my thinking backwards

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    do this
    Don't touch anything and go ride it. when it wants to cut out pull your choke and see if it clears up. If the stumble clears up you are too lean. If it gets worse you are too rich.
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaegerb View Post
    do this
    Don't touch anything and go ride it. when it wants to cut out pull your choke and see if it clears up. If the stumble clears up you are too lean. If it gets worse you are too rich.
    Will do. Gonna have to wait til the morning though, im at work. Will post results. Thanks

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    Ok. Did what you said. Took it for a ride after warmed up. It actually ran pretty good!!!. Up top is good. I didnt have any bogging, or have any popping on decel. I still feel like it could have a little more power though. And when idling, i can set the idle low where it should be, but if i give it gas itll try and cut out. If i raise the idle just a hair, then the problem goes away and it runs/rides like normal. Albeit i think it could run a little stronger. I think if i play with the needle and the pilot screw a bit i can get it right hopefully. Btw, ive read a hundred different things, does this xr carb have an air screw, or fuel screw? Its off a 91.

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    Oh and i also sprayed starter fluid around the intake, and airbox connections, no change in idle, so i no leaks anywhere

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    Ok, i had the needle on the 2nd from bottom. I just tried it on the richest setting and it ran worse. So im gonna go upt to the center notch and see how it goes

  15. #15
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    With the needle in the middle it runs pretty good through the whole throttle. Still, only thing im having a little trouble with is the idle. Itll idle steady if i keep it up a little. If i drop it to where it should be, its harder to start, and if i give it gas itll cut off. Itll idle low all day long if i dont touch the throttle. So ive been keeping it a little higher and itll start first kick no problem, and run and ride as it should.

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