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Thread: Master cylinder cover bolts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    737

    Master cylinder cover bolts

    I tried using impact driver to remove them from the front metal reservoir and the plastic rear reservoir. How is the best way to get them out? I've never seen any stuck like this before. I got one bolt out on two trikes. They are Phillips. All of them were already stripped, wollered out.Will a certain brand of extractor do anything or are they toast?
    Last edited by fieldy; 05-01-2016 at 01:37 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Watford city, North Dakota United States "THE BAKKEN" / Lebanon, Oregon United states.
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    1,081
    Im not an expert ( one of the more knowledgeable guy will come around) but have you tried using a and tap the reservoir to break the bolt threads loose? I did this to a banshee and the threads came loose

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Surprise, AZ
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    2,428
    The problem is they are JIS screws, Japanese Industrial Standard. They are not the same as a Phillips bit.
    Last edited by onformula1; 05-01-2016 at 02:13 AM.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    737
    Anyone heat the cast type metal resivoir. Maybe drain the brake fluid and use a little heat? I know there is a rubber diaphram or two I would have to replace/rebuild.
    Yes, it always seemed like Phillips were not quite the right fit. I have always been able to get them with the impact on other trikes but some genious worked on them before and i will never have a good bite. I have beat on some of the screws with a chisel trying to knock em loose. Blaster sprayed on them for a long time.
    I will Google the JIT to try to find a bit. The fluid must have rusted them in, maybe to never let loose.
    Im scratching my noggin on this. I dont want to buy new front master assemblies. I have seen
    the little chisneeze metal colored resivoirs for the rear.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
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    1,059
    I've had a couple that were stripped as well and wouldn't come out so I chose to drill the heads off. It turns out that it wasn't the screw threads that were seized, it was the taper of the countersunk head stuck to the cover. once it was drilled the cover came off and I backed the screws out with my fingers. Give it a try, and hopefully all you'll need is a couple screws.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Connecticut
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    1,605
    Quote Originally Posted by onformula1 View Post
    The problem is they are JIS screws, Japanese Industrial Standard. They are not the same as a Phillips bit.

    Maybe that why I don't care for phillips head hardware.....never knew about JIS? Is there a range of sizing like #1,2,3 for phillips?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    House Springs MO
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    5,494
    Save yourself headaches and invest in a set of Vessel JIS screwdrivers. A set of 8 is around $80 or so. You'll thank yourself later. Dirtchrasher, I believe discovered this a couple of years ago on here and it has been a lifesaver.

    Watch this video to see the difference between a Phillips and JIS

    https://youtu.be/gEwVUZr5xxQ

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    737
    Quote Originally Posted by onformula1 View Post
    The problem is they are JIS screws, Japanese Industrial Standard. They are not the same as a Phillips bit.
    I will try to drilling them later today. Now since we are on the subject, are the jis thread pitches the same as what you buy at like Lowes or Menards or are they special too? The metric hardware i have used from these stores seems to work ok. An online harware store is probably much cheaper.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Carthage NY 250r rules
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    2,350
    I drill all the screw heads off when they don't come out. I replaced the screws on my 200x with Philips standard head screws from the hardware store . I took the old one with me and matched the threads. I also had a screw twist off flush in the front mastercylinder. I built up a bead of weld and removed it with some visegrips. When you drill the heads off the screws pull the resivore cup off and carefully remove the threaded part use heat if you have to.
    250r rules

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
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    737
    Yes i had picked up some screws that should work if i can get these out. I noticed the tapered head part is slightly different. I had picked up some screws also for the chain sliders and the tapers are different. As long as i can buy cheaper hardware than OEM that will work, i will. Those slider screws were obviously not phillips. You could see the difference very easily.I will use a little antisieze on anything that i feels appropriate. I dislike that messy stuff, always wear more on me than i apply, lol

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
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    17,446
    I replace those 4mm screws with S.S. 4mm x ?? long screws with a flat head allen head from McMaster.....
    All our government does is distract us while they steal from us, misspend our tax $ and ruin our country

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Carthage NY 250r rules
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    These are the screws I used they are larger diameter and flat on bottom.Click image for larger version. 

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    250r rules

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
    --
    737
    Im taking my time drilling, think i may need another bit. The master is nice and dont want to mess it up. These screws are tough and wont break. If i drill to far i might not have anything to get ahold of once the covers are off. Probably work on them next rainy day. Thanks to all.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
    --
    737
    Well, 1 cover is off, nothing left to grab. Easy out is next step.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    USA
    --
    737
    Got two front covers off and three screws out, so far no damage. Soaking last screw with blaster till get away to the shed again. There wasnt much left to loosen but i used a sharp steel awl and made a dent in the top and side of the flush thread and beat that counterclockwise. Those were not frozen.
    One master cylinder has a rotted rubber cover and red brake fluid. The other had a good rubber and brake fluid that looked and had the consistency of yellow grease.
    I hope to find a master rebuild kit for these 86 tecates. Even if they work i want to rebuild them eventually. Thanks yous!

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