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Thread: 1983 ATC 110 ticking noise

  1. #1
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    1983 ATC 110 ticking noise

    Hello everyone,

    I have a recently rebuilt 110 (top end) and new intake and exhaust valves that I lapped in, and now it starts first or second pull and idles good, but there is a noticeable ticking noise at idle. I've checked, and re-checked the valves and the timing several times and all is good. I've also gone through the cam chain tensioner adjustment a few times. Most recently I took out the pushrod and springs to inspect them, and they seemed fine. When I reinstalled everything I adjusted the tensioner once again and did hear a little change in the pitch of the ticking, so I believe it self adjusted properly, but there is still that dreadful ticking sound. Any thoughts as to what it could be?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Wish I knew. I have a 250 sx with the same annoying come and go tick.
    Is there a separate oil tube to the head?
    Gasket sealer glob in an internal head oiler passage?

    Don't quite understand the difference because of the cam grind being theorhetically symmetrical but valve adjustments should be made at TDC.

    ps - can you click on
    service manual
    ?
    There may be some cap nut specific to one of the head studs that allows oil
    to get to the top, but I'm sure you know about that.
    Maybe a way to loosen that cap nut to see if oil pumps out?
    It's been a few years since I tore a 90/110 apart.
    At any rate, I DO understand the frustration.
    Last edited by tri again; 02-18-2014 at 04:01 AM.

  3. #3
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    Is say if you didn't put in a new timing chain you should have. It is probably stretched too much to tension right.
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the response. There is not a separate oil tube to the head, and when I rebuilt it it was all original gasket material, so no sealer present. I believe I have the head nuts on the correct studs for oil passage. I was sure to make note of the location of them when I disassembled. I'll keep trying.

  5. #5
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    You're probably right. I had to weld my shifter on, so replacing the chain poses a problem for me now. I can pull the CDI cover and get down to the sprocket and check the chain slack with a small screw driver don't you think? If there is no excess slack does that mean the chain may still be within tolerance? I appreciate the comments.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbags948 View Post
    I had to weld my shifter on, so replacing the chain poses a problem for me now.
    You did what?


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  7. #7
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    Unhappy

    Yeah I know. Probably not real wise, but it was either that or split the cases and replace the shift shaft all together. I figured if ever I had to dive into the bottom end I would just replace the shaft when I was in there, but it's already coming back to haunt me.

  8. #8
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbags948 View Post
    Yeah I know. Probably not real wise, but it was either that or split the cases and replace the shift shaft all together. I figured if ever I had to dive into the bottom end I would just replace the shaft when I was in there, but it's already coming back to haunt me.
    Umm...you do not need to split the cases to remove the shift shaft. See page 63 paragraph #2 in the original manual below. Might take up to 5 minutes to load.

    http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manual...vicemanual.pdf

    The parts are no longer available new but can occasionally be found on Ehay.

    3www member shortline10 might also be able to repair them.

  9. #9
    Tomcall's Avatar
    Tomcall is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    I had a similar issue on a 74 atc70 I built with the big bore kit. I couldn't figure it out and brought it to an atc repair place. they fixed it up and said it was a timing issue. The only other thing I can imagine is if you are using old bad gas.

  10. #10
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    Did you replace the cam chain?How did the roller in the barrel and the tensioner roller look?
    If one or more off these are worn the timing chain can slap around a little.

    No need to worry if you get the nuts on the head in the wrong order.The oil still gets through to the head and you end up with a little weep around the nut if it's in the wrong place.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the info. barnett468! I'm guessing I should dive in and replace the cam chain then seeing as that's what most of the members here are saying. Do you think that will solve the ticking issue, or could it be a timing issue like Tomcall mentioned below.

  12. #12
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    Hey WILL_S,

    Can you elaborate on the parts you're speaking about? I inspected the cam chain roller (plastic) and the inner sleeve. All seemed fine. That's the only parts I dealt with besides the cam gear itself. I should probably inspect the tensioner itself you're saying?

    Thanks!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbags948 View Post
    Hey WILL_S,

    Can you elaborate on the parts you're speaking about? I inspected the cam chain roller (plastic) and the inner sleeve. All seemed fine. That's the only parts I dealt with besides the cam gear itself. I should probably inspect the tensioner itself you're saying?

    Thanks!
    Parts 3 & 15
    Old and loose timing chains make a bit of noise
    Recently i put a thin head gasket on a motor to raise compression.The timing chain had done alot of work it wasn't overly noisy.I now have a ticking.I am not concerned about the ticking.I could just adjust or replace the chain

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #14
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbags948 View Post
    Thanks for the info. barnett468! I'm guessing I should dive in and replace the cam chain then seeing as that's what most of the members here are saying. Do you think that will solve the ticking issue, or could it be a timing issue like Tomcall mentioned below.
    Hello kbags948;


    Ok, well I do not think your ticking is caused by excessive ignition timing. This is mainly because it would be extremely rare for the bike to start easily AND have some much timing advance that it would cause detonation at IDLE.

    That being said, it is a good suggestion to check it since it should be done as part of regular maintenance plus I’m guessing you have no idea what it is currently set at.

    I clean off the F mark on the flywheel, put a line of white out on it, then use a timing lite in a dimly lit area to see it easily. If the F mark lites up in the correct location, your timing is fine, if not, set it properly.

    The chain, rollers and tensioner are all available new from the site below. http://partzilla.com might also have them and the price will be cheaper.

    If the tensioner roller looks heavily worn I would replace it.

    TIMING CHAIN – I would but D. I. D., Wiesco or orig Honda only. There are chains for around 30% less however the chain is a critical part and if it breaks it will make you and your engine very, very, unhappy. It’s also best to replace the timing gears along with the chain, otherwise the chain will wear prematurely.

    Tensioner p/n 14500-098-020, $52.00

    http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc110-19...n_14500096020/


    Chain and tensioner parts fiche.

    http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-atc110-19...5.html#results

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by WILL_S View Post
    Parts 3 & 15
    Old and loose timing chains make a bit of noise
    Recently i put a thin head gasket on a motor to raise compression.The timing chain had done alot of work it wasn't overly noisy.I now have a ticking.I am not concerned about the ticking.I could just adjust or replace the chain

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	honda-atc110-1981-usa-cam-chaintensioner_mediumhu0139e3z05_849b.jpg 
Views:	817 
Size:	30.3 KB 
ID:	187054
    Ok I see what you're referring to. I did inspect part 3, but never got down as far as part 15. I'm not too concerned about it either, but having somewhat fresh motor it's just kind of a bummer to hear.

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