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Thread: paint plastics with good results?

  1. #1
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    paint plastics with good results?

    I've got a 200x I'm throwing together.That has some pretty rough plastics but are all intact with no cracks I was wondering if anyone has tried the krylon plastic spray paint or something similar with good results? I've seen machines in the past that have been spray painted but it doesn't hold up flakes and chips soon after being painted. If this were a machine I was going to bring back I wouldn't even think about using spray paint but I don't see reason to spend 250$ on new plastics when the ones I have are all there just lack cosmetically. Hopefully some one can help Thanks

  2. #2
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    As long as you properly prep the workpiece, the fusion paint works well. I recommend using the clear coat as well. There are people who will say not to. Sometimes its the only option if you wanna use old plastics but want em to look nice.

    No matter what, any paint on plastic will eventually chip. As to how long it will last, it all depends on the prep, thickness(use lots of coats) and care/storage of the trike.

  3. #3
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    I did my 350x that the PO camo painted last year with reasonable results with Krylon plastic..

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    I'd give it a 8 out of 10 results..don't be lazy on your prep work!!
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  4. #4
    kebby28's Avatar
    kebby28 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
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    I used the krylon on my side covers for my 250es. I thought I preped it pretty good using sand paper but they are flaking after 6 months. They have small cracks and heat and flex so its hard to get any paint to stick that.

  5. #5
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    You're much better off wet sanding them in my opinion. Paint+plastic=mess
    85 Tri-Zinger 60
    85 ATC250SX
    86 ATC250SX
    87 ATC250SX
    02 XR650L conversion
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  6. #6
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    http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr....-How-to-guide

    I went this route. I also painted the black stripe on the cover over the gas tank of my YT125 with a latex paint designed to stick to plastics specially. It's held up good, but where my little co-pilot's shoes hit the paint is coming off. A latex will expand & contract better with the plastic with heat & cold, & flex better too. Most all spray paints are oils, since latex aerosols don't spray good, & oils just will not flex or expand, oils dry to hard & will crack or flake eventually.

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  7. #7
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    Check out my pics I just painted my 200X a week ago...I have painted a few things with the krylon....this is what you need to do.....prep is the key..I painted a pink barbie battery operated corvette for my daughter 4 years ago and after all of the abuse it still looks good!!!!!! once again prep is the key........I spent 30 bucks on paint and 1.99 on simple green.....

    1. wash plastics with simple green and a non scratch sponge....They put an oil in the molds in manufacturing this will wash it out.
    2. sand start with 80 grade...then 180....then smooth out with 220
    3. when finished sanding wipe good with damp towl and dry well.
    4. put your first coat on not to thick hold can 8 inches away and let dry for 15 to 20 min
    5. Keep laying coats 15 to 20 min apart hold can 6 inches away good sweeping motion... I layed 6 coats...7 on the tank...Let me know how it turns out

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATC90JAY View Post
    Check out my pics I just painted my 200X a week ago...I have painted a few things with the krylon....this is what you need to do.....prep is the key..I painted a pink barbie battery operated corvette for my daughter 4 years ago and after all of the abuse it still looks good!!!!!! once again prep is the key........I spent 30 bucks on paint and 1.99 on simple green.....

    1. wash plastics with simple green and a non scratch sponge....They put an oil in the molds in manufacturing this will wash it out.
    2. sand start with 80 grade...then 180....then smooth out with 220
    3. when finished sanding wipe good with damp towl and dry well.
    4. put your first coat on not to thick hold can 8 inches away and let dry for 15 to 20 min
    5. Keep laying coats 15 to 20 min apart hold can 6 inches away good sweeping motion... I layed 6 coats...7 on the tank...Let me know how it turns out
    Hey Jay, I like the attention to detail but a couple things..

    1st, 80 grit on plastic would make it look like a figure skater went to town on it..you're are only trying to remove the oxydize layer and this is plastic not old barn lumber. I'd say start around a 180 to 220 depending on how bad the plastic is and work your way to a 400-600 and sanding with water is a must. This way you wouldn't need 6 coats of paint, 2-3 tops!

    2nd, the cleaning should go after the sanding, not before..

    Just my opinion from doing my own..

    PS..you're pics never made it with your post.
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  9. #9
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    Gotta agree with Doug on the sandpaper grades and the cleaning after sanding. Still gonna use six coats though, at least!

    Aerosol paint goes on REALLY THIN. Color coverage is one thing, but many can jobs don't last because people don't use enough. Keep in mind that almost ALL automotive style paint is SPRAY paint, its just that a spray gun puts it on thicker than a spray can.

  10. #10
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    FWIW, I wouldn't waste my time painting plastic. I went with the sanding/wet sanding and buffer route and they turned out fantastic! It takes a lot more time but the end result makes it all worth while.
    1986 ATC250R
    1986 ATC200X
    1985 ATC200X

  11. #11
    fabiodriven's Avatar
    fabiodriven is offline Aspiring romance novel cover model, and the Official 3WW slayer of thieves and swindlers. Catch me if you can
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    I try to steer more people to wet sanding. If you're going to be sanding them anyways, you're much better off just continuing with the sanding and then your plastics will be as good as new. Paint never sticks well to plastic, ever.
    85 Tri-Zinger 60
    85 ATC250SX
    86 ATC250SX
    87 ATC250SX
    02 XR650L conversion
    84 ATC 480R

  12. #12
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    I agree with the previous post, it is BEST to wet sand your plastics then polish them. You might start with 1000 grit wet sand paper depending on how deep the scratches are and how particular you are, then go to 1500 then 2000 grit wet sand paper then buff with synthetic wool. If you have any questions just IM me, Here is a thread I started some time back: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthr...r-succesfully-!!!

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    My bad I did clean after sanding......But I had a great results with the 80 180 then 220! and I did 220 the hell out of the rear fenders!! My tank and headlight looks like I just bought them new and fenders look great! You can use higher grade if you need to and I like the wet sanding idea..Dohc is correct you will need 6 to 7 coats the Krylon fills in nice that way.. I have use Krylon a ton and it never let me down yet ! Since I painted i rode in 3 to 23 degree weather in the snow and woods and I have not had any problems even after smacking some tree branches and I wipe down with a wet towel and dry with a soft towel when I put it in the garage. Even if you get any damage you can always sand and paint again, I had fun doing it!! Also I had a crack in the front fender I used lock tite plastic and it fixed it perfectly.... If they don't turn out you can get a new set front and rear for under 300 bucks! Good painting brother!!!!!!!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabiodriven View Post
    I try to steer more people to wet sanding. If you're going to be sanding them anyways, you're much better off just continuing with the sanding and then your plastics will be as good as new. Paint never sticks well to plastic, ever.
    Depending on what results you are expecting I would agree..

    Krylon for plastic seems to be a different thing from your average can of spray paint.

    Since I was looking to just clean up my rider 350x and get rid of the ugly, I was pretty happy with the results of the relatively easy sand and paint method. About 2-3 hours total. There are a couple of spots where the adhesion wasn't perfect and it's begun to chip (front fender). Probably my fault for not properly cleaning. But 90% of the paint is great, standing up well even in the high traffic areas like the fender tops..this new plastic paint might surprise you Fabio. Follow the directions and it's pretty good..results are all about your attention to the prep work.

    But if your intention is to restore to orginal..then no question. Prepare to spend a couple days on it wet sanding!! No argument there!!

    Now for me if a couple years down the road I want to do that full on restore, I just stripe it down and get out the elbow grease. In the mean time it looks a ton better than before.

    Who the heII camo's a 350x anyway?? That's just wrong!!
    Last edited by dougspcs; 02-05-2014 at 09:58 AM.
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

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