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Thread: studding tires for ice

  1. #1
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    studding tires for ice

    I know nothing about it, what screws to use, how many it takes, Whats a decent back tire and size. I got some Dirco hole shot knock offs there 20" brand there brand new pretty much and got screws in them. I guess Im not 100% sure if the screws need to go all the way threw or not. I have a nice OEM front tire that was studded by the previous owner too and leaks from a lot of the holes. The screws were out when I got it.
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  2. #2
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    most are nothing more than slotted hex head sheet metal screws. you can buy them from home depot etc. see a picture in the link below. you want them to be around 1/32" - 1/16" shorter than the knob you are installing them on otherwise they might penetrate the tire with weight on them. i would put as many as possible in each knob with around 1/4" space between them. this typically works out to 2 per knob. others might do it differently.

    http://www.bobscycle.com/goldmax-ice...FYVZ7Aod_jAA6Q


    fancy shmansy carbide tipped screws. if you use these i would use the "grippers" shown on the right.

    http://www.woodystraction.com/tire-stud-screws-off-road

  3. #3
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    Others do it very differently. I wouldn't go by that info. Sorry man. I mean that can be fine if u wanna putt out to y o u r ice shanty to fish or just play around somewhat. But if U really wanna try it I would recommend:

    18" rear tires only
    Cheng shin makes a tire for ice racing one stud per every lug in the rear some people do two in the center path of lugs, people do all sorts of patterns but remember the more studs u use the heavier the rim tire combo and the more rotating mass.
    Studs should be actual ice racing studs. Yes u can use sheet metal screws but they hook up nowhere near as well as real studs
    And the stud should be long enough to fully penetrate the tire and stick out on the inside. Otherwise u will throw studs left and right when spinning and trying to dig and grab. Just use a healthy does of slime after u stud the tires and keep spinning to allow the slime to travel around the studs.
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  4. #4
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    I used regular HVAC pointed screws in mine and they didn't work well at all. They were free.

    I bought real ice screws.........
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  5. #5
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    Well out here in easteren Canada where there is alot of bed rock. I run 22x12x10 Bear Claws. Yes I know there heavy but they have a secret to them. I run 0 air pressure in the rear tires. Yes 0. This is because of the sheer streingth of the side walls. And I put anywhere from 500 to 1000 per tire. When I need traction on my tecate I get it. I run sheet metal screws in them and have these tires for winter only"Usually" If you stay off rocks and pavement they will last forever. But one run on the pavement and there toast. And there is nothing fun about removeing sheared off studs.
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  6. #6
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattool23 View Post
    I wouldn't go by that info. Studs should be actual ice racing studs. Yes u can use sheet metal screws but they hook up nowhere near as well as real studs
    one of the links i posted are advertised as ice racing studs. If you know where he can get something better it would be helpful if you posted a link to it like I posted for him.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tattool23 View Post
    And the stud should be long enough to fully penetrate the tire and stick out on the inside. Just use a healthy does of slime after u stud the tires and keep spinning to allow the slime to travel around the studs.
    his front tire already leaks from the screws penetrating to the inside. i suppose he could try some seal and air.

  7. #7
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    post correction

    both the links i provided are ice racing screws. the main difference is that the head is slightly longer on ice screws than it is on the hardware store screws and therefore will perform better than the hardware store ones. i would not buy the hardware store ones if you need maximum traction.

  8. #8
    FastZ28's Avatar
    FastZ28 is offline At The Back Of The Pack Arm chair racerFirst time rider
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    Here is the tires you want.
    http://www.magicracing.com/Cheng-Shi...l#.Up-BOsRDt1Y

    Here is the studs
    http://www.magicracing.com/Kold-Kutt...l#.Up-By8RDt1Y

    If you will be racing that is the recommended setup.
    You should also get the lowering link and lower the front by sliding the forks up thru the triples 3-4 inches depending on front tire clearance.
    http://www.magicracing.com/Durablue-...l#.Up-CkcRDt1Y

    I would also recommend a 22" or smaller front tire so you can lower the front more without the studs digging into your pipe. With a 10" front wheel this is possible.
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  9. #9
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
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    heres another popular brand.

    http://www.koldkutter.com/catalog/index.php

  10. #10
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    His tire leaks cuz the studs aren't in it. Usually when they r in it they don't leak cuz the tire squeezes up to the studs. I have some studded tires that I have not used any slime on at all and they hold air. That with hundred of studs going all the way through the tire.
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  11. #11
    tripowersport's Avatar
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    tattool,Is this some thing like you use? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARCTIC-CAT-S...343460463217%2 I don't know about the size to use etc.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastZ28 View Post
    Here is the tires you want.
    http://www.magicracing.com/Cheng-Shi...l#.Up-BOsRDt1Y

    Here is the studs
    http://www.magicracing.com/Kold-Kutt...l#.Up-By8RDt1Y

    If you will be racing that is the recommended setup.
    You should also get the lowering link and lower the front by sliding the forks up thru the triples 3-4 inches depending on front tire clearance.
    http://www.magicracing.com/Durablue-...l#.Up-CkcRDt1Y

    I would also recommend a 22" or smaller front tire so you can lower the front more without the studs digging into your pipe. With a 10" front wheel this is possible.
    That about sums it up in my opinion. I have this setup on a cr500 powered 250r and the dont pull out, they also barely leak, like a pound a week.
    The key to keeping the studs in is making sure you put the screws right through the tire. Also very important when your installing studs to pump the tires up hard (i do 30lbs) then deflate. They hold best this way ive found.

  13. #13
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    No. The kold kutter studs that they already linked in 1 inch length r what u want.
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  14. #14
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    Another option for Ice screws
    http://www.mf44.ca/en/index.asp

    For racing I'd go with the tires linked, for general riding any flat profile tire will put enough studs on the ice to do what you want. I did a set of 18" lawn mower tires and they work just fine for what I need. Used them twice in the past 4 years so I didn't want to tie up a lot into it. Slimed them when I did it and they haven't lost any air in the 4 years.

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by barnett468 View Post
    post correction

    both the links i provided are ice racing screws. the main difference is that the head is slightly longer on ice screws than it is on the hardware store screws and therefore will perform better than the hardware store ones. i would not buy the hardware store ones if you need maximum traction.
    You better correct yourself again. Yes the head is longer however the center is dished out and the edges are sharp. They are nothing like a sheet metal screw besides having a head and threads. Maybe you should stick to commenting on subjects you know about...........

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