250r steel clutch plate ?

[3wheelrider]

Not sure if this is a dumb question but: I bought some NEW steel clutch plates for my R but- These have the small (dimples-for lack of a better word) on the contact area. (Just like the OEM ones on the semi-auto ATCs). However,-the stock OEM 250R ones are smooth of course. Will these dimples cause drag or plates to stick? Or are they OK to use? Anyone use them before for a manual clutch?

[3wheelrider]

-
Not sure if it causes plates to hold oil & stick/grab? (when you pull in the clutch & move the trike). Not sure -since on the manual clutches the plates do not come with this from the factory- Are they not a problem?-(for those who have used them)

[RIDE-RED 250r]

I have not used them, but I don't see what it would hurt to run them. They will only be in contact with the friction discs and not in direct contact with the basket or pressure plate gripping surfaces. About the only thing that could happen as far as I can see is possibly shorter friction disc life...I wouldn't hesitate to give them a try.

My guess is they are textured to reduce slippage... Whether it really works or is just a gimmick remains to be determined until someone who has run them chimes in.

[yaegerb]

Steel's are dimpled like that for better friction. When I put new steel's in any bike dimpled or not I always glass bead both sides of each steel plate. Provides better friction and longer steel/fiber plate life.

[jeswinehart]

Yep, like Yeager said. You don't want smooth steel plates, you want ruff'd up ones (just not warped).

[3wheelrider]

I understand the dimples add friction, but when you pull in the clutch you dont want friction. The steel plates slide against the friction plates when you pull in the clutch. So I was wondering if it was ok- (since the NEW OEM ones are smooth not dimpled & not shiny of course). Was wondering if the dimples had a negative effect as far as drag or maybe even causing plates to stick-since the OEMs are not designed that way- curious question thats all thanx.

[yaegerb]

Again, no, the dimples on the plates are not a negative attribute. Now I am curious....what mfg did you buy from?

[Dirtcrasher]

When you pull in your clutch, there is NO contact. Or you would be creeping forwards.....

Please tell me who made that clutch??

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Im kind of curious who makes those plates as well. I have not seen plates with that pattern of texturing before either. Plates I have bought just had kind of a cross-hatch pattern to the surface like you would get if you resurfaced a head on a pane of glass with sandpaper to check for warpage.

[3wheelrider]

LOL- "SUMO" I think-cant find the link on EBAY now. I had them in for a ride but the gears would jam in. I'm thinkin it was due to the straight 30w oil tho. (I usually dont put that in). I couldnt roll the bike in gear with engine off too- the inner pressure plate was definetly pushing out enough. But clutch wouldnt release cause plates were dragging it seems. I know centrifical force seperates them but it didnt seem to be happening. Outer basket is OK. Assembly is correct. Gonna try some ATF type F or 10w-30 oil. I have a feeling its was due to the SAE 30 oil but we'll see.... Waiting on new OEM clutch springs since the "SUMO" ones (& other brands) are too stiff /long! Aftermarket crap sucks 90% of the time!

[yaegerb]

Yes, sounds like a cheaper brand. I learned my lesson a long time ago. I only use OEM or Barnett plates.

[Dirtcrasher]

Sumo is for wrestlers......

[wonderboy]

The OEM plates I bought for my 350x had the dimples. Dimples are a good thing. Realize that there is no raised metal around the dimple, it is a carefully made depression so it isn't going to "dig in" to the fibers or anything. The dimples are there to hold oil. Oil in a wet clutch is a good thing.

[3wheelrider]

Heres an ad for TRX

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Comple...item4d104ecd83

I took a chance on THIS over TUSK. I prefer OEM yes-but $60 for just the steel plates. -I really couldnt swing it so.....
I still had the stock '85 alum. plates on-lol

[El Camexican]

Oil in a wet clutch is a good thing.

I respectfully disagree.

Oil is the last thing you want on any clutch, but it’s there in this case because running clutches internally is cheaper, quieter and cleaner than running a dry clutch and on an ATV that is subject to mud and water it is a must to house the clutch. That is why all fiber plates have groves to allow the oil to be wiped off and flung out of the pack as the springs are released. If they didn’t your clutch would never lock up. You’ll also notice that there is never any oil pumped into a clutch assembly intentionally and the baskets are never immersed in oil, they only dip in enough to throw some oil around the inside of the cover to lube the gears on that side of the case that drive the clutch, water pump, exhaust control etc.

The dimples on the plates don’t do anything useful and there is no noticeable difference between dimpled and non-dimpled when riding. I suspect that dimpling is done as part of a stress reliving process to the sheet metal the plates are made from. Too much to get into here, but in short the flatness of your steel plates and more so their ability to remain flat when heated up are the most critical aspects of their function. Look at OEM clutch plates and you’ll find both dimpled and smooth as well as aluminum plates.

He needs to lose that 30 weight oil, get a set of stock springs and see if the clutch works. If after properly adjusting it he can’t find neutral, or if the clutch is dragging he needs to check the plates for flatness, hot spots or any other defects and change out the bad ones.
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