//ArrowChat Code
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: white smoke

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    grate white nord
    --
    65

    white smoke

    so what y'all think white smoke would indicate out of the exhaust pipe of Honda 110..


    before I noticed black on start up, fouling plugs, and would quit after it was hot , then i changed oil - (as it needed real bad) and it was good for a week or two...

    now its white from start to hot..but runs great !



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
    --
    3,415
    Quote Originally Posted by steck View Post
    so what y'all think white smoke would indicate out of the exhaust pipe of Honda 110..


    before I noticed black on start up, fouling plugs, and would quit after it was hot , then i changed oil - (as it needed real bad) and it was good for a week or two...

    now its white from start to hot..but runs great !


    Since unburned fuel and oil can some have give a white smoke appearance at times..what does it smell of. They sure don't smell the same..

    Best way to tell is your nose!
    Current toys..
    1986 Honda 350X..trail bomb!
    1985 Honda 250SX..my main mudder
    1985 Honda 250ES..Back in Black Trike
    Current non-trike toys:
    1990 Honda TRX300FW
    1995 Seadoo GTX
    1998 Polaris Indy Lite 340(Nearly new looking)
    1998 Polaris Touring 500
    1998 Club Car (electric)

  3. #3
    barnett468 is offline FACT ! I have no edit button Arm chair racerThe day begins with 3WW
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    minnesota
    --
    5,911
    My experience is that white smoke in a non water cooled engine is oil, virtually all of the time. To help determine if it’s oil you can do the following.

    Remove plug after running with no choke for a few minutes and inspect it after it has sat for 5 minutes. If it looks even remotely damp ANYWHERE including the bottom of the threads it is burning oil.

    Do a compression test with a high quality gauge and a short, small diameter hose. If your compression is around 140 or less than it also points to oil plus worn rings and/or valves seals and/or guides.

    Quote Originally Posted by Howdy View Post
    Keep it clean and on topic!!
    Howdy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
    --
    7,049
    You need new rings and a hone. Almost definitely to do it right,you will need a piston kit and overbore with a valve job.
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

    Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,014
    What Barnett said. If it has compression do the valve seals. If not rebuild it like ATC007 says. I just finished pulling a 2004 XR400 out of mothballs for a guy. It's been sitting for over 7 years without even being kicked over, it is practically new and it blows white smoke like a Chinese steam factory for about 5 minutes after start up and then runs like a top. Excess fuel smoke is usually black.

    I’m going to go out on a limb here a little and say that in my experience oil that comes in through the valve seals in small amounts usually comes out the pipe white and without a lot of odor where as a bad ring leak can have a blue tint and smells a lot. I’m speculating that this has something to do with the ring oil being exposed to the flame of the combustion chamber where as a seal leak, if not too bad never makes it into the combustion chamber and only gets hot inside the exhaust pipe. Again, purely speculation on my part based on what few vehicles I’ve worked on that had these issues.

    On a slightly different note and something I do know for sure, a nice tight engine does not necessarily need valve seals. I never ran them on my drag bike engines because the friction of a seal at high RPM can actually cause a valve to “float” and get bent by the piston and it takes more HP to move the valve train. Sometimes on startup I would get a little puff of smoke from any oil that leaked in overnight, but that was it. Once the parts get hot the only oil getting in is just enough to lubricate the valve stems nicely with virtually no smoke or smell. I don’t recommend this for a daily driver, but anything that runs less than 15 minutes at a time and has good valves and guides may want to consider this as a performance trick.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    grate white nord
    --
    65
    thx amigo's !! appreciate the advice..

    will do compression test, and go from there..valve seals seems logical

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    NEPA
    --
    7,049
    I'll put a nice crisp $100 bill on ring seal versus valve seals . Any takers? lol . Your smoke is coming from your cylinder. A valve job is a given while in there,but is not your cloud dusting problem
    Please help those who cannot help themselves.

    ALWAYS buying Museum quality machines,3 and 4 wheels. And any and ALL ,NOS parts,EVERY brand.

    I am turning my PM's Off,my Email is billsracing@hotmail.com,put 3WW in the subject. Thanx!

    Gun laws do not stop criminals. BULLETS do.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Mexico
    --
    9,014
    Quote Originally Posted by atc007 View Post
    I'll put a nice crisp $100 bill on ring seal versus valve seals . Any takers? lol
    No! I'm already down a game on my $10 hockey bet!

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //