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Thread: Gold anodized alternative

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    --
    35

    Gold anodized alternative

    Hey everyone,

    I was thinking about locating a shop to have a set of wheels and my rear axle redone (with the gold anodizing) and I discovered this article online, which if I have read correctly, basically says that it is possible to achieve the same gold tint/finish, but with the correct paint mixture (completely separate of the anodizing process).

    " The anodized layer of the metal is aluminum oxide, which absorbs the gold dye. The PRINCIPAL of achieving the desired color is the same: With anodizing a colored transparent dye soaks into the raw anodize surface and colors it "GOLD". Similarly, a just-right mix of transparent yellow and clear, applied over clean aluminum can duplicate that look. "

    I was thinking about contacting Mike (vintagemotorsports) regarding his restorations but I'd like to explore this also. In the article, the author references "Dupli color" as one of the brands used in his attempts to recreate the gold anodized appearance on some auto parts - Has anyone had a similar experience, or found a paint color/mixture which can achieve this desired effect?

    Here's the link to the full thread -
    http://www.finishing.com/264/17.shtml
    Chris

    '84 200ES Big Red
    '85 250R (x2)


  2. #2
    Big Mike's Avatar
    Big Mike is offline Part time collector of phallic shaped objects. Arm chair racerJust too addicted
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Hanson, MA
    --
    1,062
    The problem with this idea, is that it is paint and with paint comes scratches, and eventually peeling. The gold anodizing has held up for 20 years on a part that is put through hell and back, do you think paint is going to last half as long. I can see if you are building a machine that is never going to get ridden and be a shelf/trailer queen, or if you are going to strictly ride in sand, then maybe you will get 20 yrs out of this idea, but its doubtful.
    Currently Own:
    1985 ATC 250sx
    1986 ATC 350x
    1986 Polaris Scrambler 250R/ES (P3)

    Projects/Parts machines:
    1980 ATC 185S

    My Feedback Thread: http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/124667-Feedback-for-Big-Mike?highlight=Feedback+for+Big+Mike

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    --
    35
    Agree on the durability factor. My application will be for a lightly ridden machine. In the spirit of a genuine restoration, I may try and find a shop to anodize my parts gold again but since durability will be a non-issue I'm still curious.
    Chris

    '84 200ES Big Red
    '85 250R (x2)


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    --
    1,251
    Only the aluminum parts get anodized, so basically your wheels. All the steel parts are plated. Back in the day it was with Cadmium. This is harder to do today due to the environmental concerns with cad, so yellow zinc is an alternate yellow finish for steel parts (axle, bolts, etc).

    Even for a hangar queen, I wouldn't use a paint process for the wheels. I'd be VERY surprised if it even moderately resembled the original factory finish.
    - Frank

    1984 200ES Big Red
    1985 350X (x2)
    1986 350X
    1986 250SX
    1984 Auto-X
    1984 ATC70
    1985 ATC70

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    --
    35
    Thanks - I think you'd be surprised at how similar the transparent finish may appear if using the correct mix, but based on both your feedback I have come to the conclusion that paint just isn't a smart option, thanks for crushing my hopes
    Chris

    '84 200ES Big Red
    '85 250R (x2)


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