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Thread: methods for applying decals

  1. #1
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    methods for applying decals

    there is an article in the december dirt wheels about applying decals. it advises to apply soapy water to area the decal will be applied to, then dip the decal itself in soapy water. this will allow one to move the decal around a bit, and squeegee the water and air bubbles out easily.

    my sx tank has a dent right where the decal goes. i don't really care about the dent, but was concerned about putting a new decal there without wrinkles. this method seems like it would help with that.

    so my question is, has anyone done this? advise for\ against? is this a well known way of applying stickers, and i'm just a bonehead??

    thanks!
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  2. #2
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    just my 2cts. i've never done it this way, but my buddy has done it quite a few times and it works great. not much to mess up really, just keep the area and decal wet. sometimes you might need to hold the edges a little to keep it in place till you get some of the water out from under it, after that it's just squeege out the remaining water.


    EDIT: this is the way Toyota applies the decals to their Tundras also, so i'd say it does work good.
    Last edited by Jon Boy; 11-27-2011 at 06:57 PM.
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  3. #3
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    I dont use soap, just a spray of water, and squeege... Works great....
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  4. #4
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    It's how I apply window tint and phone screen protectors. It works great!

  5. #5
    300rman's Avatar
    300rman is offline My other user 3WW ID was Nitebiker07. Teaching quads a lesson
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    50/50 water/rubbing alcohol works, windex works, soapy water works. just make sure you squeegee the liquid out, and let it dry before you remove the front part of the decal. (usually decals are sandwiched between 2 pieces of paper.

    applying decals properly takes some practice, and screwing a few up is always a possibility.

  6. #6
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    cool, thanks guys! i will try this when i re-do my tank decals. think i'll try with some smaller ones first.
    86 tri z - might be nearly done throwing money at it! (good thing, the hondas are getting jealous!)
    86 250sx - old reliable
    83 atc 70-new project for me and the boy
    another 82 110
    a bunch of golf carts for the wife and kids
    -gone but not forgotten-
    82? 110 - why did i sell it??
    84 225dx - meh, it was a pile

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300rman View Post
    50/50 water/rubbing alcohol works, windex works, soapy water works. just make sure you squeegee the liquid out, and let it dry before you remove the front part of the decal. (usually decals are sandwiched between 2 pieces of paper.

    applying decals properly takes some practice, and screwing a few up is always a possibility.
    Thats how my Toyota truck advised alignment of the decal /stripe but I recall it being a bit less alcohol.

    Then again, that was a long time ago but it worked like a charm.
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  8. #8
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    Preparation - Clean the surface on which the decal will be applied. Make sure it is free of dirt, wax and grease. We recommend installation temperature of surface between 55 - 90 degrees. Do not directly power wash decals or scrape with ice scraper. Use Isopropyl alcohol to clean.

    Now you can use the "wet" method and I do recommend that. Use a squirt bottle of water and a drop or two of soap, not much.
    Does your decal have a top layer? that looks like masking tape? then you can use the hinge method, if not spray the solution on your fender and on the back of the decal and "float into place.
    Step 1. Take the decal as you received it. Position the decal on the surface. Apply a single horizontal strip of masking tape to the top of the graphic. The strip should be split between the graphic and the surface . This strip will be used as a hinge that will insure the graphic does not move during the application process
    Step 2. Hold the bottom edge of the hinged graphic away from the surface and remove the “Backing Paper” to reveal the sticky backing of the vinyl.
    CAUTION: Do not let the exposed graphic fall onto the surface. If not using the wet method. The back of the graphic is very tacky and will tightly adhere to the surface. If the placement is not correct, removing the graphic for re-placement will be very difficult or impossible without causing damage to the vinyl. if not using the "wet" method
    Step 3. While still holding the hinged graphic away from the surface. Use the squeegee and go from top to bottom, or center out begin to merge the graphic to the surface.

    Final Step. Now that the entire decal is on the surface and squeegeed down. Start at one end and begin removing the application tape, pulling it back at a 45 degree angle slowly making sure the decal stays on the surface. If you have any air bubbles left in decal. Use a pin to poke little holes in them and force the air out.

    Tip if it has the masking type top layer (not the clear) spray it with your wet solution and let sit for a couple of minutes, it will help the tape to release from the decal after you have squeeged it down.

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  9. #9
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    I have a few NOS OEM HONDA decals I need to install. I have installed reproduction decals using water/soap and it works great but what about the OEM HONDA ? I have a set that are real OLD STOCK from 1986 and I was wondering if the OEM's are applied this way also. I am hoping the glue on them is still good,they are still in the original sealed packages for my 1986 TRX200SX , I am applying the looong decal that goes across the tank and I think it's going to be a pain because the OEM'S are very thin compared to reproduction decals.

  10. #10
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ID:	175014I have done this using a spray bottle and soap and water many times.. It works great. I peel the sticker backing and spray as I peel it. and I spray the area where the sticker is to be applied. the soap and water lets you move the decal around and square it up into a perfect position. Once it where you want it press the water out from behind it and your done. Look at the pic provided, i did my tank this way. CRF 450 graffics .
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  11. #11
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    So hold the boat, what you guys are saying is you wet the mating surface with soap and water and apply an adhesive backed decal...wet???? does this not effect the adhesive on the back of the decal?

  12. #12
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    Exactly, the surface and the decal are wet, this lets you slide it around and position it, as you squeegee the water out from behind the adhesive grabs hold, after it dries a bit its permanent. Doesnt affect the adhesive at all.

    I use a spray bottle full of water and a few drops of dish soap, lightly shake it up and then have at it!
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  13. #13
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    HOLY SH!T!!!! I've been doing it the hard way. This is enlightening.

  14. #14
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    Me too Jim. I have been aware of the wet method since tinting the windows on my Monte SS in 87.. But was quite afraid to go for it! Slime EVERYTHING up,nice and gooey. You can slide these bad boys right into place,,as many times as you want. Then start squeegeing,, Bruce,, Would you recommend a heat gun used Lightly afterwards,or just let them air dry? I know the answer is no right? I just have always been amazed the glue works and stays after all the water. I am still afraid to use soap. I just use water,and a LOT of it lol. Last windows I tinted came out Perfect !
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  15. #15
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    I recall the first time I saw water used to do tint I thought the guy was nuts (this after I ruined a roll of tint in a botched attempt to do my own windows). If you have the time stop by a sign shop that does decals on trucks and cars. The speed and acuracy of those guys is amazing and they all use the wet method. If one lacks the confidence to put their own decals on they could just pay these guys a couple bucks and they would likley do it.

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