84 big red. Oil soaked stator and flywheel

[trikeman78]

Oil in the alternator is this normal. On some trikes this is normal i heard. Also how do you hold the flywheel? I have the shop manual and the puller. But Im still having a hard time getting the flywheel off. What am I doing wrong? The old parts are different from the nos ones I have. Is this old vs newer style?
Any help or tips are greatly appreciated.

[Yamaha_Rules69]

I dont think there is supposed to be oil coating the stator and flywheel. The first guess that comes to mind is the seal behind the flywheel, the crankshaft seal. The seal may be torn, or the shaft could be slightly pitted/worn, and wore out the seal. To pull that kind of flywheel, dont you use a steering wheel puller?

[trikeman78]

So far no luck with the flywheel. She's on there good. I removed the left cover spacer to get a strap wrench on the flywheel and I have a 1/2" drive breaker bar on the flywheel removal bolt. After some heavy wrenching it felt wrong. I removed the puller bolt to find the threads starting to strip. I'm ready to break out the heat.
Second deal: I bought a NOS Alternator on ebay for a deal. The part # matched but the parts are different. See pics. So far it seems to be aftermarket stator and flywheel just missing the adaptor plate to make it work. The new stator wire harness is the same and the lighting/ignition coils are in the same place just twice as many coils for each system. 2 primary coils and 6 lighting coils. Seems better if you ask me. Am i just missing the adaptor plate here.
The flywheel size, keyway, bolt pattern and timing marks are the same except for magnets. Old flywheel had open magnets and the new they seem to be covered. Again see pics.
Any way to get the stator plate anywhere?
Is it ok to tighten the puller on the flywheel and hit the end of the puller with a mallet to loosen the flywheel?

[cbx1170]

Just exactly what are trying to do? Oil in stator/flywheel is the way this model is designed & made for. Do you need to get fly/rotor off for a reason? If not fix your stator/ignition/charging problem with a better stator. If cam chain/starter clutch/LH crank problem - pull rotor. If not leave it alone. I can see the need to pull flywheel/rotor only when you need to keep matching componets like STATOR AND FLYL/ROTOR. Some Hondas like ATC350X have more than 1 manufacturers of matching elec components. Mitsubishi and Hitatchi and Denso. Ck part numbers-closely. Ck engine serial number ranges I see at Babbitts.com stop/start P/N's. Match em. Honda used to warr 350x STATORS & FLY/ROTORS as a set no matter if only part of set was bad. They, Honda, said some elec manuf mix and match may work some may not. If so pull your old fly/rotor. Get max puller thread engagement. Moly lube where it contacts crank face. Carefully tap w/. Hand impact tool and . Or use a socket and T-bar and tap end of bar. Last resort heat inner rotor hub very carefully.

[Dirtcrasher]

Many 4 strokes run bathed in oil, you don't have an issue. I oil the threads on all my pullers and use an impact gun. If they are still stubborn, I tap the end of the bolt NOT the flywheel. We had a guy snap his flywheel off of the hub a week ago, either he did or the shop did. But, I tap, then impact a bit more and repeat. Hit it too hard and your damaging the crank bearings so I only SLAM the ones coming apart for a teardown

Your oil filter strap is a good idea, but an impact will make short work of this.......

[trikeman78]

I was having problems with starting and the battery wouldn't stay charged on my 84 big red. Oil also leaked from the side case so I felt like I should check things out. I just got done cleaning up the alternator assembly on my daughters 85 ATC110 after similar problems and it was dry. Corrosion was the issue. [ I guess these things can happen after some deep watery mud hole crossings] So after the 110 was running great again, new seals, o-rings, gaskets and chain maintenance. I decided that maybe I should check the stator on my big red. I never opened that side up before and wanted to check it out. Turns out there was a crack in the left spacer cover from someone installing a bolt that was to long and they forced it. Need to find a new one now.

Thanks to cbx1170 and Dirtcrasher for answering the oil in stator question. Somethings like that even the shop manual leaves out. That is why guys like you two are hear. Thanks.

I will attack the flywheel tomorrow. The new stator and flywheel seem to be an upgrade and I still want to install the new parts as a pair. Im going to try to make an adaptor plate to make it work.
Also going to see about an impact gun and some gentle persuasion with the to get the flywheel off. Thanks DC