hey guys will my atc110 be ok i added 10-40 motor oil?
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
hey guys will my atc110 be ok i added 10-40 motor oil?
"Never look down on someone, unless your helping them get back up"
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerFirst time rider
your talking about viscosity right? i thought 10w40 was what is recomended by the service manual. also dont use any thing that says "energy conserving" like pennzoil. it would be best to use a atv/motorcycle oil
1984 yamaha 200k
1985 honda 70...some times swap the 125 lifan for fun
1984 honda 200es
1985 honda 200x
atvs:
2013 Honda Rancher 420 ES
Power User
The day begins with 3WW
I buy 10 40 by the case for ALL my farm stuff and even checked the honda manuals and they say ok if the temp range is ok for where you live.Originally Posted by atc90
the scary killer is oddball additives like slick 50 and the like
Power User
Roostin Away
no, do not use motor oil for cars, it will ruin your clutch. only wet clutch safe oil should be used. motorcycle/atv oil only. but 10-40 as a weight is perfect
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
Rotella 15-W40 works fine on wet clutches. I also used Valvoline ATV oil with good results.
1999 Kawasaki Bayou 220
1980 Honda ATC110 (Work in Progress)
Roostin' Away
Arm chair racerRoostin Away
The older 3 wheelers, motorcycles etc with wet clutches were designed to use automotive oil. I don't know exactly when the motorcycle industry decided to tell everyone that auto oil will destroy your clutch but in the manual for the 110 it just says to use SAE 10W40. In my 1991 Nighthawk 750 manual is says specifically that auto oil is fine.
Even though on my good machines I do run ATV or motorcycle Valvoline. If I am in a pinch and need to change the oil I will use regular oil and never had any problems with it. Actually the Nighthawk when ridden real hard with two up the clutch would slip from second to third with the Honda motorcycle grade oil (the moly allows the discs to slip a little, making them last longer), with out the moly to protect my clutch I could ride two up and shift second to third at redline without slippage.
Just a question but what kind of oil have you been running if you are worried about 10W40? Maybe just change the oil.
First Time Rider
Arm chair racerNew to the board
ok thank you for he input. And i just fo this 110 motor so i dont know what oil it had before im trying to service it before i fire it up
"Never look down on someone, unless your helping them get back up"
Power User
Got the holeshot
ive used 10w40 motor oil all the time in the past with no serious problems.since about 15 years ago though i only use the special motorcycle oils they sell.maybe im a sucker for marketing technics.
1985 ATC 250R.Team Red Trike
Power User
Roostin Away
i ran car oil in my 1986 trx 200sx and it ruined the clutch in around 1-2 weeks. and in any new machine (experience with 2005 raptors and 2001 yamaha warriors) it will ruin your clutch. it causes so much slipping eventually you cant climb steep hills
Roostin' Away
Arm chair racerRoostin Away
I'm not trying to argue but I'm pretty sure the theory behind motorcycle wet clutch oil is the molybdenum allows for slightly less friction in the clutch, making shifts smoother and the clutch lasts longer because at when the clutch is disengaged there is less friction and wear. So clutches would be more likely to slip with motorcycle grade oil than auto oil. Thats what happened in my 750 Nighthawk, with motorcycle oil, Honda HN-4, the clutch would slip when ridden hard with two up, only a second to third redline shift, two up. But with Castrol GTX, it didn't slip.
That's why you can only add Lucas a tiny amount of Lucas oil and STP will ruin clutches because they contain way too much moly and the clutches can't grip at all.
If you notice when you have motorcycle oil its easier to shift into neutral at a stand stop, when if you run auto oil you have to get into neutral before you come to a stand still. I've notice this with my machines.
Thats just my experience. Auto oil shouldn't have ruined a clutch in a old TRX, but could have accelerated the wear in an already bad one.
Maybe the new ones do require the additive for the clutches. Never had anything that new but I guess if I had the money for it I wouldn't be as worried about the cost of oil and would run wet clutch oil because its not that much more.
At The Back Of The Pack
Arm chair racerAt the back of the pack
sooo.... chevron 5w30 is a no no? because thats what ive been using for 6 years.
Power User
Roostin Away
it was my neighbors ATVs that had that happen. the warrior got so bad he couldn't get up hills or spin the tires. and it was my trx years ago before i knew better. it leaked oil badly and i was despreate and i added a few OZ. of supertech automotive oil and boom it slowly got worse and worse till i replaced the clutch plates.
my dad works at the dealer and people use car oil all the time because they dont know better and end up having to buy new clutches.
but the auto oil in the older machines makes sense.
Reply With Quote