^ PLEASE, start your own thread!! Who the hell is gonna see your request?? SIMPLE CONCEPT with message boards. If it were the same engine size/model then I can understand but as it stands, no one will see your post aside from the viewers of THIS TOPIC.
That Moose and other kits have gotten me frustrated also. Many times the air screw is the most imortant thing within that kit! IDK if it will get us anywhere, but maybe I should start a thread and I'll try to contact MOOSE and explain the issue and suggest that they may not be selling as many kits because some of us are well aware of the thread pitch issue.
IDKWTF that air screw they give us fits, but it's useless............
Some guys move up to the XR200 carbs, which do gain you maybe 1MM in size difference, yet still run the stock intake boots (front and back).
MOST carbs are not worn out, and it's something else thats causing the issue. I've explained dozens of times how to make certain your fuel is getting to the carb. I'd ask you to use the search feature, but honestly, it is almost useless. I can't even find MY OWN threads with the title (I think) I'm spelling correct. Instead, I get 30 topics that have absolutely nothing to do with my search; It is most certainly a flawed system!
Here goes again - If it will run, then run it till it dies. IMMEDIATELY shut the fuel off with the petcock. Now either drain the fuel bowl with the lowest phillips screw on the float bowl (it should have a drain tube attached to it), or by removing the float bowl. There should be nearly a half full shot glass of gas in there at this point. If NOT, then the problem is in the tank, it's filters, tubing leading to the carb etc etc. If you find that to be the issue, (or AT LEAST eliminate it as an issue) then we can move forwards trying to find the problem be it fuel and or electrical........ And the order of that airscrew is not always done correctly, it isn't emphasized enough in any of the manuals but the order goes - Airscrew, spring, washer and last is the oring. Some carbs ALSO have another "step" within the airscrew that yet another o-ring goes on and that is merely there to keep GUNK out of those airscrew threads. If you think about it, it makes sense. When you adjust the screw, the washer prevents damage to the oring, or there would be an air leak at that area and then any adjustment you make is useless. I find that 2 turns out seems a bit much for my 200X and if I have to back it out that far to get it to idle and rev up (without hesitation), many times I'll just bump UP the pilot jet one step. If stock is a 38, I'd bump up to a 40 and then 1 turn OUT or just a bit more should work. I always use never-seize on any airscrews and suggest it to everyone.........
EVERY single person with a metal tank - I SUGGEST - you remove the stock filter in your tank and run a clear inline fuel filter where you can see the flow either working or not and they are only about 1.50$ at most places; Or the dealer can charge you 4$ for it because they have overhead, even though the filter cost them .50c. I usually buy 10 at a time because I use them on ALL my trikes.
About the only part on a carb that wears out is the throttle slide bore, think of it just like your cylinder. AND, where that the air screw is suppose to be "LIGHTLY BOTTOMED" and then backed out the proper amount of turns; well, that hole can be ruined. Not the threads, but the teeny tiny hole the air screw "does it's job" within.
Other than that, most people do not ever need a new carb. However, if you want it to breath better, then you have to look into modding the air box (no lid or a lid with numerous 1" diameter holes etc etc" and then intakes can be changed and also the throttle cable. It's not always a "piece of cake" to upgrade your OEM carb; Many people can get it on there with radiator hoses and clamps and other rinky dink crap and unfortunately thats what allot of people do.........................
If you do need a carb, I suggest finding an XR200 carb which is just a MM or two larger than stock and all the other components will fit. And maybe the carb kit for THAT carb may have an airscrew that works. If you guys want me to try and get some of us together and I'll contact Moose, then I'll start a new thread and run with that.
Also, I do not suggest the EBAY 65$ carbs. I have no idea what happened; Did Keihin allow other people to use there brand name for a copyright fee?? I'm not sure but I'll say this; They seem to impress some people and work for them. Others have complained that they ARE NOT identical to the same OEM Keihin carbs and they do not use the same jets and I'm sure that the needle is different too. Which can open up ANOTHER can of worms..........
The only true Mikuni and Keihin carbs are sold at SUDCO (Or other distributers). Here is Sudco - http://www.sudco.com/Carburetor01.html
Good luck and keep posting, we'll figure it out 
Try checking your gas flow as I suggested, I did not truly read through your entire issue but I will and I can edit my post if need be.
Last edited by Dirtcrasher; 02-27-2010 at 04:11 PM.
Reason: SPELLING!!
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