Bolts snapped trying to remove footpeg

[Xhumeka]

I was trying to remove my left hand side footpeg since it was bent out of shape and I had a nicer one to replace it with, however BOTH bolts snapped when trying to remove them. I even soaked them daily with PB Blaster for a few days prior to trying to remove them, but that didn't help :(

Both bolts snapped pretty close to the frame - one sticks out about 1/4" but the other is practically flush with the frame.

I'm guessing a bolt extractor probably won't help - it's not like I stripped the head of the bolt, they were so severely rusted in place it actually snapped the bolt in half. So I have a feeling no matter how hard I try, a bolt extractor won't be the solution.

What's my best course of action at this point? I'm thinking drilling them out then using Heli-Coil? But I thought I would ask the experts before proceeding!

Thanks for any advice you can offer!

[Yamada]

Drill a hole in the bolt, put a smaller bolt in the hole, weld the new bolt to the old one and then heat the frame before trying to remove it. But I'm not sure heating the frame will be a good idea.
What is the machine you are working on?

[Xhumeka]

Sorry - forgot to mention that... This is for my 1984 250r

[SYKO]

get some serios reverse drill bits, drill out till the hole is nearly the same size as the original bolt, usually at that time they loose there strengh from being stuck and roll out with the bit, doen that a bunch on various machines over the years.

[atctim]

i did the same thing on my 350X. Use heat and a bolt extractor (easy out).

heat is key here!

Those bolts are very hard - so start with a small pilot hole in the center of the broken bolt - you may be best off grinding the broken stub flat first. then move to a bigger drill bit - the self extractor should tell you what size drill bit to use.

[Xhumeka]

Thanks guys - I'm just scared to use an easy-out because i've heard horror stories that if they break off inside the bolt you are in real trouble.

I've heard that unless the pilot hole is PERFECTLY centered and PERFECTLY angled dead-center, there's a high-chance of breaking the easy-out. I'm not sure I can make a perfectly centered and angled pilot hole.

That's why I was thinking about just drilling it out and using heli-coil... but if you guys think the easy-out breaking is over-exaggerated I'm willing to give it a shot!

[atctim]

You do have to use extreme care when using these easy outs - and for a bolt the size of the one that holds the foot pegs - you will need a big easy out. One more thing that is probably never talked about when discussing easy outs. Just like any tool really - there are cheap China made ones - and there are descent quality ones. Do yourself a favor and buy a descent one for less chance of it breaking.

[Micahdogg]

Buy some EZ outs. YOu may also have enough bolt sticking out to grab with some vice grips. But you'll probably only get one shot at it. It's not that big of a deal...worst case you just drill the whole thing out. Drill as precisely as possible.....centered and straight.

[threewheelin-feelin]

this happend to my 350x with my old 85 frame and on my new 86 frame...we just went the easy route and drilled and taped it to just a little bigger then it was...and we just had to make the hole in the foot peg a slight bit bigger...but it was a pretty easy fix

[smvorndran]

I agree with atctim. Get yourself a great Easy Out, and it will work. I suggest you find one at an industrial supply shop. The best ones in my opinion are the square ones that are tapered, with ground sharp edges. You need to heat the bolt first to loosen it, then remove it with the easy out. Most people try to remove bolts when they're still stuck, but the EO won't hold up to that much torque. Get it loose first, then spin it out. The corkscrew, or reverse spin easy-outs can make it worse, although they do bite well. In the pictures below I recommend the ones on the left, and not on the right.

smvorndran

[Micahdogg]

I've only used the ones on the right (good ones and cheap ones) and had pretty good luck with all of them. And I've always done so with the bolt still stuck. If I could get it unstuck....I wouldn't have broken the head off. Also, if it's unstuck you can just tap it out with a flat head screw driver.

[Daddio]

Good points on using quality tools and heat to loosen it up. I've said this before but I'll say it again. I use a mig welder and weld small welds one on top of another until there is enough material to grab onto with vice-grips and then back the broken bolt out. You need to do it while it's still hot. I have about a 98% success rate with this method. I've also used it to remove bolts that had broken e-z outs and drill bits in them when those methods failed.

[oscarmayer]

if it's something not engine critical, i would jsut drill the bolt to the currnet size and re-tap the hole. if your lucky it will tpa it completley out w\/o damaging it, if it won't you still have a new clean hole. the 2 peices of metal can get so rusted they won't seperate as the heat fomr the rust and corrusion over time can weld parts together. so it may be easier to jsut get the correct tap for the oroginoal sizse and bit and drilla nd tap new holes. on the one sticking out, gring it flat to the frame so it's flush.

[JohnR.]

Everyone else has mentioned it but it can't be mentioned enough.

HEAT HEAT HEAT HEAT

Get yourself a MAP gas torch and a good quality set of EZ outs and reverse drill bits. You own a 25 year old off road machine, you're gonna need those tools again.

John

[Erics350x]

I've got the same problem and haven't had much luck drilling into those stupid bolts. Is there a certain type of bits you guys recommend?

[white rat]

Get the yellow bottle for the torch you have now, it's the hottest you can get for it. Hit Brafasco or Fastening house for the easy outs.

Get your self some metric wrenches (every bolt on that trike should be metric) and tap them with a hammer to loosen the bolts, you have a better chance of braking bolts if your using steady pressure instead of the impact of a hammer. Remember the trick I showed ya on the axle nuts, heat and the hammer worked when the spanner didn't.

Give me a shout if you need me to explain a little more.

[plastikosmd]

the welding trick has worked well for me. Just snapped 4 of 5 stainless bolts off on changing a waterpump on an outboard. Salt water sucks. I put a nut on top of the bolts (some were flush others were countersunk) and tig welded up and into the nut..all easily came out. The combination of the welding heat and the added nut to grip onto makes it easy.

[Xhumeka]

Well I just spent 3 days trying to get those bolts out with nothing to show for it - too bad I'm not a welder as that seems to be the best method to remove those things.

I PB Blasted, heated, and tried the bolt extractor method over the past 3 days and neither will budge one bit!!! I applied so much force to the bolt extractor that I was sure it was going to snap - thank goodness it didn't!

So I guess I'm going to have to drill them out and re-tap... that's my only solution at this point :(

[honda_atc200es]

i need to get some of my snapped bolts out. i have 3 in the head of my spare engine, one on the top engine mount of my current engine, and another one i cant remember where =P stripped and snapped bolts always drive me crazy =/

Good luck to ya

[Thorpe]

I use a mig welder. Use a small grinder and clean up the tip of the bolt, and weld a hot little glob onto the bolt, let cool, and weld a little bigger glob on, repeat. Hose it down with some wd40 and remove with a good sharp toothed vise grip... I build street rods, so dealing with rusty broken bolts is a daily thing for me... Good luck!