Check you timing!! (Ricky Stator setups)

[3or4wheels]

After reading on here from various guys that Ricky Stator setups tend to be on the advanced side slightly I decided to check and adjusted my timing on my new Ricky Stator setup for my 87 T3.
Here's the results after re-timing with a Snap-On strobe light.So don't trust those timing marks on the stator.Only problem is,can I trust the timing marks on the flywheel???:wondering

[Tecate250]

I only have the ricky stator mag. I am using a tecate 4 stator with a 85 tecate headlight coil. And my marks seem to be off as well.

[fabiodriven]

After reading on here from various guys that Ricky Stator setups tend to be on the advanced side slightly I decided to check and adjusted my timing on my new Ricky Stator setup for my 87 T3.
Here's the results after re-timing with a Snap-On strobe light.So don't trust those timing marks on the stator.Only problem is,can I trust the timing marks on the flywheel???:wondering

How do you check your timing with a timing light on a Tecate? I know how to do it on a car.

[3or4wheels]

Check it the same way you would a car but using an external 12v source such as a car battery and clipping the pickup to the spark plug wire

[boosted96cobra]

Except the manual says to check it at 6000 rpm, I guess you can with a digital readout timing light?

[3or4wheels]

This is what mine looked like after timed correctly with a light.

[fabiodriven]

Check it the same way you would a car but using an external 12v source such as a car battery and clipping the pickup to the spark plug wire

But what marks do you line up?

[3or4wheels]

you line up the mark on flywheel(manual says the right hand one)with the mark on the crankcase(the kind of "v" mark you can see in the pick).
If you dont have a light with a tacho,I found as you raise the revs you will find at certain rpm that the marks become more static or steady, this is around the 6000rpm mark,below and especially above this the marks will be jumpin around all over the place.

[fabiodriven]

OK, think I got it. Thanks.

[Meat-BoX]

Damn seems everyone is getting new stators on their Tecates this winter. Ricky Stator must be happy. Looks like I will be getting mine soon for my 84-85 Tecate. Should there be anything to look for while installing? Keep hearing they are a little off. Wheres the best place to order from? Thx :TrikesOwn

[3or4wheels]

Ebay or direct from RS,same price

[Meat-BoX]

Damn u ricky fuxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

2 Ricky setups and both were loose. 1st blew after 30 mins second I ordered tight yet it came loose.
ALWAYS TAKE APART YOUR RICKY AND LOC-TITE IT.
Now the marks are way off and its breaking up at 12/full throttle.
I did move it back a bit and that prevented any more broken ankles and soles of my feet yet she still kicks back a little. I cant remember how I held the damn flywheel in place to loosen nut. This is like my 4th time into this stator/flywheel trying to get it right. pain in the ass. I need a flywheel holder if this is what tecate is gonna keep throwing at me.

[barnett468]

Damn u ricky fuxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

2 Ricky setups and both were loose. 1st blew after 30 mins second I ordered tight yet it came loose.
ALWAYS TAKE APART YOUR RICKY AND LOC-TITE IT.
Now the marks are way off and its breaking up at 12/full throttle.
I did move it back a bit and that prevented any more broken ankles and soles of my feet yet she still kicks back a little. I cant remember how I held the damn flywheel in place to loosen nut. This is like my 4th time into this stator/flywheel trying to get it right. pain in the ass. I need a flywheel holder if this is what tecate is gonna keep throwing at me.

i would have just used a stock tecate system.


this will hold it if you don't have a flywheel holder.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Klein-S6H-Grip-It-Adjustable-Strap-Wrench-/221497712568

http://d3d71ba2asa5oz.cloudfront.net/43000373/images/ebays12h.jpg

[Meat-BoX]

Thanks for the response. I need that Flywheel Holder to keep it simple.
I had a stock set up that blew 10 minutes off the Trailer at Brapps winter ride. Was the only old part on the Tecate at the time. Lucky I had my 200X

I used a strap and vice grips and got it off again. But now im wondering how far to retard it as I only went a lines width back last time. 1/16"

New 38 mm Air Stryker, and now running 93 non ethanol at 40:1 as 32:1 was splooging out my pipe and jammin up my plugs. 40:1 was looking good today but still breaking up with new plug. I saw the distance in the pic but thats for an 87 and seems severe. My Tecate is an 84 and im not running a light so would that make a difference?
As I dont have a timing light I figure to move it back 1/8"? as the last time helped with the kick back issue a bit at 1/16" back. Didnt expect the breaking up though at full throttle with new carb and I hope its only the timing.
Im glad I found this thread. I hope I get it right as this area of the trike is starting to get abused and stripping will ensue soon. I will update hopefully tomorrow on this performance and product related issue.

[barnett468]

.


Im glad I found this thread. I hope I get it right as this area of the trike is starting to get abused and stripping will ensue soon. I will update hopefully tomorrow on this performance and product related issue.
Ok, I and a few others here can definitely help you with your prob.



Thanks for the response. I need that Flywheel Holder to keep it simple.
No prob, you’re welcome . . While you are doing the test, I wouldn’t tighten the flywheel bolt more than around 16 ft lbs . . this is plenty tight enough for a short test . . You don’t need to ride it more than 15 seconds if it misses anyway.



New 38 mm Air Stryker, and now running 93 non ethanol… My Tecate is an 84
Unless your engine is heavily modified including porting, that carb is a bit big.



… im not running a light so would that make a difference?
That will have no affect because the lights use a separate coil.



I had a stock set up that blew 10 minutes off the Trailer at Brapps winter ride.
If it is the magnets that were the prob on your stock ignition, you can send the flywheel out to get new ones installed which will eliminate the problem.



40:1 as 32:1 was splooging out my pipe and jammin up my plugs. 40:1 was looking good today but still breaking up with new plug.
Can you post a photo of the end of your plug?

What oil are you using, if you mainly fide it above ½ throttle, then depending what oil you are using, 40 is too lean so I would use 32 . .If you are just trail riding, them a leaner mix is fine.

Also, even at 32, your plug should not oil foul unless you have a crank seal leak on the clutch side, therefore, it suggests to me that you are too rich, at least for the amount of timing you have . . If, it is oil fouling, it will remain wet/semi shiny after it has sat for maybe 5 minutes . . If it is gas fouling, it will dry up if it is wet, plus it it’s rich, it typically leaves a dry black residue on the plug.



…I dont have a timing light
Although it would certainly be helpful, you don't really need it for this app . . It is useful for setting stock timing when your marks are accurate or when you are modifying a timing curve.



im wondering how far to retard it as I only went a lines width back last time. 1/16" …I figure to move it back 1/8"? as the last time helped with the kick back issue a bit at 1/16" back. Didnt expect the breaking up though at full throttle with new carb and I hope its only the timing.

In your case, I would go exactly 3/16” or 2 mm . . If it still misses, I would strongly suspect that it is also rich..
You can also find TDC with a dial indicator or a bent piece of coat hangar with a few marks/lines on it so you have a reference point . . The coat hanger will get you close enough for your purpose . . Once you find TDC, simply mark the flywheel so it is in line with the mark on the case.

Measure the distance from the tdc mark on your orig flywheel to the other lines on the new one and time it to those lines.
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