OK, Tecate guys New questions post #16. Splitting cases? Changing bearings and seals?

[Hoosier_Daddy]

It's been a long while since I've torn down an engine so my mind has plenty of rust. My 85 T3 engine has some welded up cases and i FINALLY found a pair of good cases on a non running 85 T3 engine (it may be an 84)

I basically want to take apart the engine with the good cases (keep any salvageable parts for future use or ??) and then tear down my good T3 engine and put everything in the good cases.

I have bought a complete gasket set and complete seal set. So that stuff will all be new. And I know it will be asked so the answer is YES, I do have the original factory repair manual and will use it as my guide.

So here are some questions for those who have experience and are willing to share.

1. When it is all done I will end up buying a Ricky flywheel and Stator. Will I be able to find info on setting the timing for that?

2. Will I run into any problems where a special tool will be required other then the flywheel puller which I already have?

3. Is there any bearings that are a "must" change while its apart? I don't want to use the old crank bearings, even if they are good, if it means it'll break down in a week.

4. Any other mods or updates that would be recommended while it's apart that will help with dependability or maybe even a little more power or anything?

That's all I can think of for now but if I have more, I'll come back to this thread. Thanks in advance for any advice. Bottom line is, I want to do this right. No shortcuts.

[fabiodriven]

I have a Ricky Stator flywheel and stator. All you do is line up the timing marks on the stator with the marks on the motor. Done. There are guys on here who say Ricky's timing marks are off, but I've yet to have any problems with mine. In fact, I personally had a huge power gain with the Ricky stator.

The flywheel puller sells on Ebay for like 12 bucks or something. You can also use a steering wheel puller or 3-way puller if you have one of those. Obviously crank bearings and seals are a must. All other seals are a must, too. Especially the water pump seal. Some of the tranny bearings you could probly re-use, but if you've got 'em why not replace 'em.

When you're done always make sure you have some kind of chain guide and a case saver. After all that work, one hop of the chain could put you right back to square one.

[cr480r]

most cases will come apart with some light persuasion with a rubber mallet.. stubborn one will require a puller.. by the time you get your old cases apart you will have it figured out.. a propane torch and our freezer will ease the reassembly.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

most cases will come apart with some light persuasion with a rubber mallet.. stubborn one will require a puller.Thank you for that info
. by the time you get your old cases apart you will have it figured out.. a propane torch and our freezer will ease the reassembly.Tis one, I wouldn't mind a little better explaination.:) Do you cool them in the freezer and then heat themto get them together? Or do you freeze one and heat the other? Thanks.

[Tri-Z Pilot]

Thank you for that infoTis one, I wouldn't mind a little better explaination.:) Do you cool them in the freezer and then heat themto get them together? Or do you freeze one and heat the other? Thanks.

Bearings go in the freezer to shrink them for easier installation, I guess the heat is for the actual case if you need to expand the metal or something. Dont go putting cold bearings into a hot case though, use one method or the other as going from really cold to really hot could break something.

[fabiodriven]

Bearings go in the freezer to shrink them for easier installation, I guess the heat is for the actual case if you need to expand the metal or something. Dont go putting cold bearings into a hot case though, use one method or the other as going from really cold to really hot could break something.

The whole cold-hot thing won't hurt anything. Freeze the bearings, heat the cases. I used to work at a machine shop that did comlete engine teardowns, and boring and sleeving. The proper way to install a sleeve is to put the sleeve in the freezer and the cylender in the oven. When correctly machined, the two just slide together and leave about 3-5 seconds to line up the ports before the two become one.

[Tri-Z Pilot]

Ok, I was goin off of memory, I didnt want to give any advice to screw anything up, I figured one or the other due to the opposites in temps. We used to always use the feezer for kingpins and bearings on rigs when I worked servicing a fleet of tri-axle dumps.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Love the help so far guys. Thanks.

I'll go ahead and plan on buying new crank bearings for it. I don't know what other bearings are in there. I do have some new clutch frictions so it will have new clutches as well.

Will the transmission parts be a pain in the rump for me? Any type of gear wear i should look for other then the obvious broken teeth or visibly rounded?

[cr480r]

Will the transmission parts be a pain in the rump for me? Any type of gear wear i should look for other then the obvious broken teeth or visibly rounded?

I doubt the trans will give you any trouble.. its not like parts are gonna fly out at ya or anything..lol.. the kawis (especially yours) are very simple. after the clutch, ignition, kick start mechanism, and cylinder are removed there really is very few parts left to deal with. Once the case halves come apart pull the pins for the shifting forks and remove them.. then pull the transmission mainshaft and counter shaft out together and set them aside.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I doubt the trans will give you any trouble.. its not like parts are gonna fly out at ya or anything..lol.. the kawis (especially yours) are very simple. after the clutch, ignition, kick start mechanism, and cylinder are removed there really is very few parts left to deal with. Once the case halves come apart pull the pins for the shifting forks and remove them.. then pull the transmission mainshaft and counter shaft out together and set them aside.Good news there.

[nd4speed]

Freeze the crank.

If you lay the cases on there side, and pull one half and crank. Do the bearings/seals, then put it back together and flip it over. Repeat. Then the trans stays together.

[cr480r]

Freeze the crank.

If you lay the cases on there side, and pull one half and crank. Do the bearings/seals, then put it back together and flip it over. Repeat. Then the trans stays together.

That would work. But since he is replacing the cases it would probably be easier to just set the trans aside, inspect it, and use whichever trans is in the best condition.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

That would work. But since he is replacing the cases it would probably be easier to just set the trans aside, inspect it, and use whichever trans is in the best condition.

If i have to use a rubber mallet to separate them, where should I hit so no damage occurs or no parts come flying out? lol

[nd4speed]

I hit the end of the crank. Kinda awkward to do by yourself but not impossible (if they come apart fairly easy?).

Missed the part about the cases. Darn, I have a set of case halves to sell as long as they look ok inside.

[cheaptecate]

When it goes together, make sure you don't force it. If you have to beat it together you will soon take it apart again. I forced mine together and fried the crank bearings in about 30 minutes. The second time I cooled the crank and had better luck.
Take your time and do it once.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

OK, I've tried the mallet to seperate the cases to no avail. I didn't want to kill my cases so i didn't get a running start at it but i hit them pretty good and nothing. So I guess I'll have to use a puller.

I also would like to know how you guys take out bearings and seals and then replace them without da,maging them? Should I break down and buy the special bearing tools? Those are probably very expensive.

[nd4speed]

Blind bearing puller from local auto parts store. I think there is a seal puller tool too but it just like a little hooked screw driver. Check them out.

[mdunn]

I had to fabricate a puller to get my cases apart on my '86. Pitch on the steering wheel puller wasn't enough. Don't try to pry them apart as you will quickly destroy the cases. Good luck!

[Dirtcrasher]

You either have to buy the CORRECT puller or make something up.....

Almost every time I split a case, I go in my box of goodies and there is something I can use or modify just a bit to work.

The left or stator case - I usually use 2 or 3 long threaded studs (that I weld together sometimes) - those thread into the case either where the stator mounted or where the OEM guys left you holes to use. The other piece is a flat plate of 1/2 x 1.5" inch steel that the studs bolt to. The center hole in that plate is threaded (by me) 1/2-13 and uses a piece of 1/2 rod with a nut welded on one side and usually to a point on the other so it pushes the crank away from the case without slipping off....

Please don't make me take a picture........................................... .. I'm tired and it's fricken MO FO cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is not a blind bearing puller, it is a case seperator, and nothing should ever hit the crank.

Once that left side is off, the right side of the crank can be pressed out on a press with the dowel pins removed and the case protected.

Make sense??

EDIT - aren't there pics of the puller/pusher I made in my "20 day trikefest 86 200X build" thread??

[nd4speed]

I also would like to know how you guys take out bearings and seals and then replace them without da,maging them? Should I break down and buy the special bearing tools? Those are probably very expensive.

I was wrong to tell him about blind bearing pullers?

[Dirtcrasher]

I was wrong to tell him about blind bearing pullers?


Nope, not at all - maybe I didn't read enough....

But, blind bearing pullers are for just that, blind holes with no way in from the other side. They pull or slide hammer things out by grabbing the inner race and yanking it out of the blind hole. Like most motors clutch pivot, there is no way to get out that lower bearing without one or by using hydraulically forced grease or some jedi bread trick Jeff has yet to tell me..... :lol:

Lets see if this picture works, it's a tool I made that originally worked on a Blaster motor case. Then I modified it for the 86 200X 2o day build.

Simple homemade tool that can pull or push depending on how you use it and set it up. Check it out............


Trying again with the instant pic!

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh220/Dirtcrasher/13PullingCrankIn.jpg

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I was wrong to tell him about blind bearing pullers?I think he thought you were calling a case splitter a blind bearing puller. Not sure.

You were saying to get a blind bearing puller for the bearings themselves, right?

[Hoosier_Daddy]

You either have to buy the CORRECT puller or make something up.....

Almost every time I split a case, I go in my box of goodies and there is something I can use or modify just a bit to work.

The left or stator case - I usually use 2 or 3 long threaded studs (that I weld together sometimes) - those thread into the case either where the stator mounted or where the OEM guys left you holes to use. The other piece is a flat plate of 1/2 x 1.5" inch steel that the studs bolt to. The center hole in that plate is threaded (by me) 1/2-13 and uses a piece of 1/2 rod with a nut welded on one side and usually to a point on the other so it pushes the crank away from the case without slipping off....

Please don't make me take a picture........................................... .. I'm tired and it's fricken MO FO cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is not a blind bearing puller, it is a case seperator, and nothing should ever hit the crank.

Once that left side is off, the right side of the crank can be pressed out on a press with the dowel pins removed and the case protected.

Make sense??

EDIT - aren't there pics of the puller/pusher I made in my "20 day trikefest 86 200X build" thread??Thanks for the info ( i saw the pic in the second post also).

Did you say you recommend a blind bearing puller for taking out bearings? I don't have any presses or anything like that. The repair manual shows bearing tools that supposedly take bearings and seals out and put them back in. I just didn't know how expensive or hard to find these tools are. Or of there were other ways to do it beside buying special tools.

[Dirtcrasher]

You just need sockets and EMT or Black pipe etc etc and a press. If you whack them out, you have to do so without cocking them as you will damage the bore they press within.

MOST IMPORTANTLY!!!!!!! - Beyond that you need the KNOWLEDGE to know whats what and how chit is supposed to come out or get pressed in etc etc.......

I've been into many many motors and not yet needed a "blind puller" but they do have there purpose and add to a tool collection.

A decent press can be bought for about 200$

Honestly though, building motors isn't really "hard" but there are so many mistakes that can be made that make that motor that lasted 20yrs, last 1 year after someone believes the did a "complete rebuild".

Not trying to bust anyone's balls, but there really are allot of small seemingly insignificant things that are super important. You press the wrong thing, pull the wrong thing, misalign the wrong thing and something WILL suffer........

When I was young I had a guy that would split and assemble my bottom ends for 75$, I was more than happy to pay him to do it and he's the one that taught me right from wrong.

I'll never advise someone to rebuild there motor themselves to save money unless they can do it 100%.

This is why so many guys put in topend after topend but they never touch the bottom end until the crank launches.

I'd rather be terrified of a bottom end rather than ruin one trying to rebuild it........

[Hoosier_Daddy]

You just need sockets and EMT or Black pipe etc etc and a press. If you whack them out, you have to do so without cocking them as you will damage the bore they press within.

MOST IMPORTANTLY!!!!!!! - Beyond that you need the KNOWLEDGE to know whats what and how chit is supposed to come out or get pressed in etc etc.......

I've been into many many motors and not yet needed a "blind puller" but they do have there purpose and add to a tool collection.

A decent press can be bought for about 200$

Honestly though, building motors isn't really "hard" but there are so many mistakes that can be made that make that motor that lasted 20yrs, last 1 year after someone believes the did a "complete rebuild".

Not trying to bust anyone's balls, but there really are allot of small seemingly insignificant things that are super important. You press the wrong thing, pull the wrong thing, misalign the wrong thing and something WILL suffer........

When I was young I had a guy that would split and assemble my bottom ends for 75$, I was more than happy to pay him to do it and he's the one that taught me right from wrong.

I'll never advise someone to rebuild there motor themselves to save money unless they can do it 100%.

This is why so many guys put in topend after topend but they never touch the bottom end until the crank launches.

I'd rather be terrified of a bottom end rather than ruin one trying to rebuild it........Well, I see what you are saying because i'm doing it myself to save money yes, but mostly because I enjoy it and want to learn to do it.

[cr480r]

A steering wheel puller and a rubber dead-blow will easily separate a kawasaki case... If the cases dont come apart with mild tapping then you must use a puller.. use the puller to keep pressure on the crank as you tap, and tighten the puller as needed. Do not beat on the crank if you plan to re-use it, it doesnt take much to knock them out of true.. although there is nothing wrong with using a rubber mallet to remove the crank from the right case halve after the cases are apart..

[nd4speed]

Right, most of the bearings are not blind and an arbor press would be a good idea. You could do without these things but are taking a risk. I avoid bearing/seal work after case splitting now because I have never owned the right tools.

When I buy machines and motors I try to determine if the cases have ever been split and avoid those that have. Pretty hard to do with 20+ year old machines without looking inside.

Stripping down to the case is easy enough. Might be worth while to look around for someone reputable to do the work from there. Buy all the parts beforehand to save money.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Well, I got it all down to bare cases. It wasn't really all that bad. i have to use some innovation here and there. I think the hardest part may be when i put new crank bearings on it. That may give me trouble. The crank bearings on it are good but I'm too afraid to put it back together without new ones. Like i said, i want to do this right.

I have a brand new OEM rod and rod bearing kit but i don't have the money to take it to the shop for them to press the new one on. That's ridiculous how much they want for that job.

The seals are easy to pop out and I'm confident that i am careful enough to replace all the seals properly. I've done similar stuff before.

Anybody have any advice on removing the old gasket material off everything? I'm afraid a putty knife may cause some damage with the wrong slip. And when new gaskets are put on, should I use gasket sealer for any of them? Or is that something recommended not to do? I'll be replacing all gaskets and seals.

[nd4speed]

Permatex Gasket remover spray helps, but it eats paint and attacks aluminum if left on there.

The local motorcycle shops around here charge $60 an hour. So crank rebuild = $60. Put some bearings and seals in a case and back together = $60.
I hand them the parts and they do the rest. Also good prices on shocks, porting, head cuts, and boring.

You should check around since gas is cheap now.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Permatex Gasket remover spray helps, but it eats paint and attacks aluminum if left on there.

The local motorcycle shops around here charge $60 an hour. So crank rebuild = $60. Put some bearings and seals in a case and back together = $60.
I hand them the parts and they do the rest. Also good prices on shocks, porting, head cuts, and boring.

You should check around since gas is cheap now.Nobody in this area does it. All the shops here send them away. The local shop sends them to a place called Lang in Michigan. I don't know where that is. But the cheapest quote I can find is $160 to put the new rod and bearing on for me. Since the rod and bearing on my bike is in really good shape, i just don't know if it's worth putting that much more into it for only peace of mind.

[cr480r]

Well, I got it all down to bare cases. It wasn't really all that bad. i have to use some innovation here and there. I think the hardest part may be when i put new crank bearings on it. That may give me trouble..........The seals are easy to pop out and I'm confident that i am careful enough to replace all the seals properly. I've done similar stuff before.

just buy or borrow the correct tools.. i would rather spend money on tools than pay a shop to do simple work..


the cheapest quote I can find is $160 to put the new rod and bearing on for me. Since the rod and bearing on my bike is in really good shape, i just don't know if it's worth putting that much more into it for only peace of mind.

thats way too much money.. if your good one is still tight I would just re-use it for now.. send your bad crank away to get rebuilt when you find a better deal and replace it at a later date.. its only a few more bolts to pull the whole engine next time you need a top-end..

[nd4speed]

I think Lang Tuning is in Sturgis MI just across the border. Like I said, gas is cheap. Call and get a quote for all the work you need and make one trip.
There should be lots of Motorcycle shops around Buchanan, MI where Red Bud is?

Or ship it to somebody and get it done for like $100 total.

Name: Lang Tuning
Street: 62504 North M 66
Sturgis, mi 49091-9336
Phone: (269) 651-7914

[Hoosier_Daddy]

just buy or borrow the correct tools.. i would rather spend money on tools than pay a shop to do simple work.. I am thinking about fabricating a press using some square steel tubing and a hydraulic bottle jack. That is basically what they use anyway right? If not, what is the proper way to remove and install crank bearings?

Plus, I'm sure my fabricated press would come in handy for many things.




thats way too much money.. if your good one is still tight I would just re-use it for now.. send your bad crank away to get rebuilt when you find a better deal and replace it at a later date.. its only a few more bolts to pull the whole engine next time you need a top-end..


I think Lang Tuning is in Sturgis MI just across the border. Like I said, gas is cheap. Call and get a quote for all the work you need and make one trip.
There should be lots of Motorcycle shops around Buchanan, MI where Red Bud is?

Or ship it to somebody and get it done for like $100 total.

Name: Lang Tuning
Street: 62504 North M 66
Sturgis, mi 49091-9336
Phone: (269) 651-7914If he was talking about a place in Sturgis, hell that is only a 45 min drive for me so that would be cool. I'll check it out. I have family in southern Mich so I'm pretty familiar and not too awful far away from most of it. Some family live outside of Benton Harbor in a small town called Baroda so we went to Warran dunes all the time. I've been to Red Bud countless times. Used to go to Sturgis every weekend for the "hell of it" shopping trips when i was a teen and my dad got bored of Ft Wayne. Back then, there was a lot more stores in Sturgis. Now, there is little reason to go there unless i have a purpose like this.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

But, even for $60, if my rod and bearings are good and tight should i even bother replacing them? I can get the tolerance out of the repair manual and check it but It seems really good. Sinse it seems to be really good, is that particular part that big of a deal in your guys' opinions?

[cr480r]

I am thinking about fabricating a press using some square steel tubing and a hydraulic bottle jack. That is basically what they use anyway right? If not, what is the proper way to remove and install crank bearings?

Plus, I'm sure my fabricated press would come in handy for many things

I would use a bearing puller on a slide hammer to remove them, and use the hot/cold technique in combination with a hammer and brass drift to install them


But, even for $60, if my rod and bearings are good and tight should i even bother replacing them? I can get the tolerance out of the repair manual and check it but It seems really good. Sinse it seems to be really good, is that particular part that big of a deal in your guys' opinions?

The con rod bearing is a big deal... however I wouldnt replace parts that still have life left in them.. the tolerance is zero movement up and down.. there is a side clearance spec, but its not real critical unless you are pressing new parts together(.018-.024).. as long as its nots real excessive (.030+) or the thrust washers look tore up I would run it... doesnt it run fine now?

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I would use a bearing puller on a slide hammer to remove them, and use the hot/cold technique in combination with a hammer and brass drift to install them



The con rod bearing is a big deal... however I wouldnt replace parts that still have life left in them.. the tolerance is zero movement up and down.. there is a side clearance spec, but its not real critical unless you are pressing new parts together(.018-.024).. as long as its nots real excessive (.030+) or the thrust washers look tore up I would run it... doesnt it run fine now?
Yeah, runs great now.

This tear down was mostly due to a couple leaky seals and I wanted some cases that hadn't been welded up like mine are. I found the doner engine with good cases so I will replace all the gaskets and seals in the process. I'll probably only replace the crank bearings and the water pump bearings.

[cr480r]

I would use your best crank and rebuild the other one as soon as you can since you already have the parts.. you'll only be out a couple hours of your time, wristpin circlips, a base gasket, and trans oil to replace the crank later..

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I would use your best crank and rebuild the other one as soon as you can since you already have the parts.. you'll only be out a couple hours of your time, wristpin circlips, a base gasket, and trans oil to replace the crank later..If i choose to go ahead and have the crank rebuilt, do i have to worry about it being balanced? Is balancing cranks pretty pricey? I'll have all winter to get this rebuild done. I'm in no hurry so I might just go ahead and have the crank done anyway.

plus, keep in mind that I'm going to give that PVL ignition a try. If i don't like it, i can always put a Ricky on later. I have 18" Fast Trekkers on the rear so I know that lowered the gearing. I don't know if that will help with the low end problems the PVL may cause but i could try some other gearing too. I don't know yet. Anyway, with that in mind, is it more important to do the crank, even possibly get it balanced since I'll be starting out with the PVL?

[tecat-z]

If you want a balanced crank, it has to be done professionally. It will reduce vibration at all rpm's and will help certain components of the the engine last longer. It does get pricey though. Crankworks is very good for all your needs. But honistly, unless you plan on building a serious engine. Balancing is not mandatory. Runout and thrust clearance are critical with a fresh rod kit.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

If you want a balanced crank, it has to be done professionally. It will reduce vibration at all rpm's and will help certain components of the the engine last longer. It does get pricey though. Crankworks is very good for all your needs. But honistly, unless you plan on building a serious engine. Balancing is not mandatory. Runout and thrust clearance are critical with a fresh rod kit.No, I'm not planning on building anything too serious. I don't even know wht runout and thrust are. haha:wondering

[cr480r]

plus, keep in mind that I'm going to give that PVL ignition a try. If i don't like it, i can always put a Ricky on later. I have 18" Fast Trekkers on the rear so I know that lowered the gearing. I don't know if that will help with the low end problems the PVL may cause but i could try some other gearing too. I don't know yet. Anyway, with that in mind, is it more important to do the crank, even possibly get it balanced since I'll be starting out with the PVL?

I would comphensate for the 18's with different sprockets for sure.. otherwise you will find that is too low geared.. you'll go through the gear way too quick and it wont even be fast.. crank balancing has nothing to do with what ignition you choose... flywheel mass doesnt create power.. it just increases momentary inertia..

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I would comphensate for the 18's with different sprockets for sure.. otherwise you will find that is too low geared.. you'll go through the gear way too quick and it wont even be fast.. crank balancing has nothing to do with what ignition you choose... flywheel mass doesnt create power.. it just increases momentary inertia..Are you familiar with gearing? Under the circumstance should I start by getting a smaller rear sprocket? Or should i go to a bigger front sprocket? Any advantage to either? How many teeth do I know how to add/subtract when gearing?

[cr480r]

Are you familiar with gearing? Under the circumstance should I start by getting a smaller rear sprocket? Or should i go to a bigger front sprocket? Any advantage to either? How many teeth do I know how to add/subtract when gearing?

IMO its better to have a small rear sprocket for 2 reasons.. one reason is it lets you keep a larger front sprocket (they last longer and dont wear the slider as much).. the other reason is the slight gain in ground clearance

[Hoosier_Daddy]

With a PVL and 18" Trekkers, where should I start on the rear sprocket? Any input?

[nd4speed]

List of Polaris rear sprockets that fit and usually on ebay cheap:
http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=60994&page=4

Just saw a discussion about this and they were suggesting something like up 2 in the front or down 6 in the rear.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

List of Polaris rear sprockets that fit and usually on ebay cheap:
http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=60994&page=4

Just saw a discussion about this and they were suggesting something like up 2 in the front or down 6 in the rear.
thank you!

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I would use a bearing puller on a slide hammer to remove them, and use the hot/cold technique in combination with a hammer and brass drift to install themI just happened to think about this one. When i install the crank bearings, do i install them onto the crank or put them in the cases and then put the cases back together and that forces the bearings on the crank? Because when i got the cases apart, the crank bearings are stuck on the crank itself. So, I'm not sure where to install the new crank bearings.

[nd4speed]

bearings in case.
does it look like bearings were spinning in case?

That's why I said freeze crank for easier assembly.

[tecat-z]

You either have to borrow the tool, or take the crank to a motorcycle shop and use the CORRECT tool. It goes between the attached bearing and crank half and wedges between the two. Forcing pushing the bearing off the journal. It's very simple with the tool, and is the only correct way to do this. With warm cases and cold bearings, the new bearings will push into cases with you thumbs. Do not beat on them! And remember to install seals first on the Tecate engines.

[Dirtcrasher]

My local Auto Parts store had this tool in a set of 2 for 38$. Worth there weight in gold!! I'll post up a pic for ya.....

[Hoosier_Daddy]

You guys are great with all the info. I appreciate it.