Yamaha YTM Front Shock Disassembly How-To

[thefox]

Yamaha YTM Front Shock Disassembly How-To


OK Yamaha had some good ideas when making the YTM series trikes but these front forks were not one of them. They do bend, and the seals are difficult to replace making them susceptible to be neglected. I will post up a How-To disassemble the front forks for maintenance. First off sorry for the poor quality pictures, it is hard to work one handed. If you have any questions please ask, even though I am no expert I may have forgotten to post up info. that I do know. Also, note that I put wood blocks in my vise to keep from damaging the fork tubes. Pictures are from a YTM 200 front shock, the 225 DX uses a very similar shock, if there are any noteworthy differences I will post them up tomorrow when I pull apart a set of those (I can’t think of any huge changes).

The Shock
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2231.jpg

Top fork cap. These can be a pain. You are supposed to be able to press down the cap to expose a ring clip that you can remove. With the clip removed the cap pops out the top of the fork tube. Most of the time it’s not this simple as the caps rust up and get stuck. If the cap get stuck see below.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2234.jpg


I press down the cap with a screwdriver or punch then use a small flat tip screwdriver to pry out the ring. You can see the ring in the picture below. I take the screw driver at about a 60 degree angle and pry down on the ring near the end then when it pops out of the grove I slid another flat tip screwdriver under it and pry it up and work the lower screwdriver around till the ring is out.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2239.jpg



The Ring
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2240.jpg




The Cap should pop off once the ring is removed. Sometimes you may have to tap on it with a hammer and socket .

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2241.jpg


If the Cap Gets Stuck Read This

When the cap gets totally stuck this is what I do. I center punch the middle of the cap and drill a hole most of the way through the cap. Next I tap the hole. Then I put a socket on top of the fork (27mm fits the outside of the tube but the cap is smaller and will fit inside the socket, this is key). Now I thread a bolt through the socket (with the needed spacers if the screw is longer then it needs to be) and tighten it. As the screw tightens up it will pull the cap up. Just be sure you have a few threads started before the screw tries to pull the cap out, this is why I start with a little bit longer screw and spacers then back it out and add spacers after pulling the cap out a little.

Tapped Cap
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2243.jpg

Socket Puller
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2244.jpg


After the Cap is Removed…
Pull out the spring.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2242.jpg


Now Fill (with the fork still extended) fill the fork with oil (I use old motor oil). You want to fill it about 1.5” from the top. Now but the cap back in and the locking ring. I would clean the inside of the tube and the cap before you put the cap back in so it doesn’t get stuck. If you had to drill and tap a hole to remove the cap and you drilled too far so the hole it strait though, leave the screw sticking in the cap.



Remove The Lower Retainer Clip
You will also need to remove the lower retainer clip. Use internal clip pliers (well worth the $5 investment by the way) to remove the clip. Sometimes one side of the clip will be stuck, I take my small flat tip screwdriver to pop one side out and work my way around the tube if needed. There is a washer under the clip, don’t worry about trying to pry this out and it will come out easily with the seal.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2235.jpg

[thefox]

Now with the shock filled with oil we put it in a press and compress the shock. The oil with pressurize and push the seal out. I made my own press out of an old bed frame and bottle jack, it worked fine. I do suggest holding a rag over the seal as some oil will squeeze out but as long as you pump slowly it doesn’t make too much of a mess. You can feel the seal slide out.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2245.jpg


The Seal

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2246.jpg


Again

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2247.jpg

With the seal removed from the lower shock body the top tube can come out. Sometimes it will pull apart easily but sometimes the lower bushing will stick. You can pull it apart of clamp the top tube and tap gently on the bottom shock body. It also helps to remove the cap if it will come out easily.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2248.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2249.jpg


Now you have the tube out of the lower shock body and can check the straitens of the tube. I remove all the clips and bushings then roll the tube down a piece off glass and watch for gaps between the tube and glass. I use a piece of glass because I know it is darn close to perfectly strait.

Bushings Removed
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2250.jpg

Checking for Straitness


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2251.jpg

The Parts
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2252.jpg

Tools that I have been using.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2253.jpg


Well, that about covers it....

[Vealmonkey]

Great thread! Very informative.

[Yamada]

I already bookmarked this thread for when I will find the motivation to rebuilt my ytm forks. Thank you

[Yamada]

I think this thread need to be moved into the new World Class help forum.

[code200k]

thanks maybe ill finally fell like redoing my shocks :lol:

[MonroeMike]

Bump for the YTM folks.

[muthey]

thanks mike and thanks thefox for the great tutorial

[jr315rn]

you have any more amazing how toos please share them i learned alot!

[MonroeMike]

There's some more "How to" threads in WCH, if you have not found them already.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/forumdisplay.php?47-World-Class-Help

[TecateDan]

WOW. I've done tecate and SX forks and they were both easy. No yamaha's for me. (Looks like I may have to take that back to help out fabio) Seriously though this is the stupidest thing I've seen in a while.

[Worden18]

Very informative. I'm saving this to my favorites....

[El Camexican]

Does anyone happen to know how this part is removed from the fork of a YTM? Screw, clip. pressed? Has me stumped, want to know before I pull them down. Mine are making a nasty clunk as they return to full extended.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181039677708?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[YamaBoss]

Does anyone happen to know how this part is removed from the fork of a YTM? Screw, clip. pressed? Has me stumped, want to know before I pull them down. Mine are making a nasty clunk as they return to full extended.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181039677708?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

When I ripped mine apart they just fell out. No clip, bolt, nothing. The inside of the forks were really beat up so I'm not sure if that is how they should be or not.

[El Camexican]

Today I took apart a spare fork I have to refresh myself as to how they work. Simplest fork in the works and possibly the crappiest as well.

So here's the thing; I know these are never going to do anything but bounce up and down, but what's driving me nuts is the noise mine are making, particularly when they top out. The bottoming I can live with and maybe even eliminate with enough oil in them, but when they rebound back to open after either a good bounce, or if I pull the front end up for a wheelie they make a terrible metallic noise.

I was concerned that my steering head had come loose, but it's fine. I replaced the hammered out balls with tapered rollers when I rebuild it and have checked it since.

I don't recall these noises when the trike was new. Could it be as simple as changing to 30W oil? (using 20 at the moment) or maybe the underside of the stock seals have more rubber that the seals I installed and this deadens the impact?

Was thinking of adding a Teflon washer under the seal as well and maybe one for bottoming out as well. Do any of yours make these sounds? Has anyone gotten rid of them?
223433

[onformula1]

Today I took apart a spare fork I have to refresh myself as to how they work. Simplest fork in the works and possibly the crappiest as well.

So here's the thing; I know these are never going to do anything but bounce up and down, but what's driving me nuts is the noise mine are making, particularly when they top out. The bottoming I can live with and maybe even eliminate with enough oil in them, but when they rebound back to open after either a good bounce, or if I pull the front end up for a wheelie they make a terrible metallic noise.

I was concerned that my steering head had come loose, but it's fine. I replaced the hammered out balls with tapered rollers when I rebuild it and have checked it since.

I don't recall these noises when the trike was new. Could it be as simple as changing to 30W oil? (using 20 at the moment) or maybe the underside of the stock seals have more rubber that the seals I installed and this deadens the impact?

Was thinking of adding a Teflon washer under the seal as well and maybe one for bottoming out as well. Do any of yours make these sounds? Has anyone gotten rid of them?
223433

Your best bet would be to swap to 225 forks, they are superior.

The 200 forks don't have a top out spring, so it's metal to metal.

Stock oil weight was 10WT, if you are using 20WT, I would switch to 30WT it will help and mask some of the worn internals as well.

[El Camexican]

Your best bet would be to swap to 225 forks, they are superior.

The 200 forks don't have a top out spring, so it's metal to metal.

Stock oil weight was 10WT, if you are using 20WT, I would switch to 30WT it will help and mask some of the worn internals as well.

I guess someone pulled a fast one on me. The spare fork I took apart was alleged to be off a 225 :lol: Oh well, I got the straight tube I needed out of the other one. I don't think I'll bother with the 225 upgrade. Let me try the 30W. Thanks!:beer

[onformula1]

I guess someone pulled a fast one on me. The spare fork I took apart was alleged to be off a 225 :lol: Oh well, I got the straight tube I needed out of the other one. I don't think I'll bother with the 225 upgrade. Let me try the 30W. Thanks!:beer

The 225 has a real (Modern for 1985ish) damper rod, top out spring, valving and bottoming cones, they even made a Terry Cable Kit for them back then with extended travel and heavier fork springs.

[El Camexican]

The 225 has a real (Modern for 1985ish) damper rod, top out spring, valving and bottoming cones, they even made a Terry Cable Kit for them back then with extended travel and heavier fork springs.

I know what you're trying to do! Stop it!:lol:

[onformula1]

I know what you're trying to do! Stop it!:lol:

You too funny! :lol:

They are much better if the right deal ever comes your way.

[El Camexican]

You too funny! :lol:

They are much better if the right deal ever comes your way.

Just bought a set. I hate you!!!!:lol: Now please tell me I don't need a different wheel, hub and brake and I might upgrade you to "piss me off" status.:lol:

[onformula1]

Just bought a set. I hate you!!!!:lol: Now please tell me I don't need a different wheel, hub and brake and I might upgrade you to "piss me off" status.:lol:

They are the same, now you can run 15WT. fork oil.

[El Camexican]

They are the same, now you can run 15WT. fork oil.

1983 200
Hub, Front 29U-25111-00-00
Spacer, Bearing 29U-25117-00-00
Plate, Brake Shoe SILVER 21V-25121-00-35
Axle, Wheel YTM200K21V-25181-00-00
Oil Seal, Swo-Type 93110-30013-00


1984 225
Hub, Front 29U-25111-00-00
Spacer, Bearing 29U-25117-00-00
Plate, Brake Shoe U.R. Silver for cpy 21V-25121-00-35
Axle, Wheel 29U-25181-00-00
Oil Seal, Swo-Type 93110-30013-00

Yep, only issue might be the axle. Not sure why the P/N change. I hope they aren't bent too badly.

[YamaBoss]

I know the 225 is not a bolt on upgrade like some claim. The 200 forks have a skinnier base then the 225. I swapped a set of 225 to my 200e and had to get a custom axle made to fit it. As far as I know you would have to do the same with the chain driven 200's.

The axles are different as far as I can tell, I think the 225 axle might be a bit longer. Definitely a reason for that part number difference.

[YamaBoss]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/03/03714d608d52ae185396104df7ea8380.jpg

Gold is a 200 fork
Black is a 225 fork


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[El Camexican]

If it was easy everyone would be doing it... so I keep preaching to my coworkers.

Thanks for the heads up:beer

[onformula1]

Nico , Si no funciona te haré un eje personalizado wil un cambio rápido Euro configurado. Usted sabe el número.

HaHa!

[El Camexican]

Nico , Si no funciona te haré un eje personalizado wil un cambio rápido Euro configurado. Usted sabe el número.

HaHa!


Ta bueno guey. Te aviso cuando tengo oportunidad a revisar los nuevos amortiguadoras, pero creo que puedo hacer un eje aqui.

Saludos:beer

[El Camexican]

Finally got this project together. The first set of forks I bought were in amazing condition. Unfortunately I managed to damage one of the tubes and had to buy a second set to get one good inner tube. The eBay seller took the better part of a month to put it in the mail and then removed the brake cable holder that was clearly shown in the eBay pictures before he shipped it. When they arrived one fork was bent about .200" and the other about .050". I left it like that as my fork straightening endeavors have never worked out well (I need to learn how one day). I had to remove one of the caps by drilling it out like the OP of this thread, worked great!

I used the down time to strip the black paint off the fork legs. I was going to powder coat them, but as always seems to be the case I can't resist polishing aluminum, so they got buffed out.

OnF1 shared a few tips that were executed to improve the feel of the forks and they seem to have worked very well. The difference over the 200 forks is night and day. Thank you Milner!

So, anyone looking to do this needs to get an axle from the 225. That's the only part that changes because the 225 axle is longer than the 200 axle. You also need to run the forks about 7/8" above the tree or the front brake cable will be too short. This is because the 225 forks are a little longer than the 200 forks. The tab that holds the brake cable is discontinued, but you can cut the one that is welded to the 200 fork off and drill it to fit the 225 forks which is what I ended up doing.

228924228925228926

[onformula1]

Wow!, as usual Primo work.

That trike is good looking.

[El Camexican]

Wow!, as usual Primo work.

That trike is good looking.

I know! Can you believe some guy on another thread wants me to cut it up and put a swing-arm on it!:crazy::lol:

[onformula1]

I know! Can you believe some guy on another thread wants me to cut it up and put a swing-arm on it!:crazy::lol:

Some people's kids???

[tripledog]

You guys do nice work. Stick a fork on it, it's done.

[onformula1]

You guys do nice work. Stick a fork on it, it's done.

You are totally correct the forking around is over,,,, and now to Brembo disc brakes front & rear to match that WP shock. :lol:

[barnett468]

.
If anyone has rust on any parts, one way to remove it is to buy some powdered/crystal 99% Oxalic acid and a plastic tub . Mix 1/2 lb of acid per 1 gallon of watter and let them soak until they are clean . This take from 1 to 4 days depending on the amount of rust . Mixing it at 1 lb per 1 gallon of water will speed the process up.

Do this in a well ventilated area and do NOT breath the dry powder or the fumes from the mix . It is similar to battery acid in that it can make your hands sting slightly and burn holes in your clothes . If you get some on you simply rinse it off . The mix can be neutralized by adding around 1/8 cup of baking soda per gallon of mix at which point you could even drink it if you wanted . If you have a pool test kit, neutralize it to 7.5 - 8.0 ph . After this you can dump it in the yard but the rust can leave stains.

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh293/thefoxman45/YTM%20Fork%20Rebuild/HPIM2242.jpg

.

[thefox]

Man, 10 years later I'm pulling some YTM 200 forks apart wondering how I get the stupid seal out and remember I posted a how-to... I'm learning from younger me! I think I still have that homemade press in the shed someplace, time to dig it up!

[El Camexican]

Man, 10 years later I'm pulling some YTM 200 forks apart wondering how I get the stupid seal out and remember I posted a how-to... I'm learning from younger me! I think I still have that homemade press in the shed someplace, time to dig it up!

On the 200 just remove the cap, spring and dump the oil. Then remove the retainer clip and washer above the seal. Lock the lower leg in a vice and use the upper tube like a slide hammer to pop the seal out.

If it won’t come come out use a heat gun to soften the seal and expand the lower tube and try again. I’ve had to use a torch on occasion, they can really be stuck in there at times.

Be ready for it to let go in grand style when it does and make sure you don’t end up tossing the upper tube through a window or spearing your dog.

[thefox]

On the 200 just remove the cap, spring and dump the oil. Then remove the retainer clip and washer above the seal. Lock the lower leg in a vice and use the upper tube like a slide hammer to pop the seal out.

If it won’t come come out use a heat gun to soften the seal and expand the lower tube and try again. I’ve had to use a torch on occasion, they can really be stuck in there at times.

Be ready for it to let go in grand style when it does and make sure you don’t end up tossing the upper tube through a window or spearing your dog.

The heat gun is a good idea. One shock is a little stiff (it must be slightly bent) so the slide hammer method won't be easy.

[El Camexican]

The heat gun is a good idea. One shock is a little stiff (it must be slightly bent) so the slide hammer method won't be easy.

Wow, one of mine was really bent and it didn’t bind, so yours must be pretty bad. They usually bend just below the lower clamp, so short strokes should still be possible.