Swedish 3wheeler questions! Honda questions now, need to keep some running! PICTURES!

[Dirty]

A little information about myself first.

Im 28 years old, live in northern part of sweden (so the winter is just around the corner and that means giving the machines some love).

The "madness" about 3whellers started a few years ago when my dad spotted a great little kawasaki on a swedish site for selling stuff (similar to your craiglist i think).

After that a 200X was added to the stable, imported from germany since my dad was going down to buy a truly GREAT looking Fat Cat (that will have its own thread if i someday do anything with it)

Found a really cheap piece of junk a year later in a 200E -84 that had the rear end cut off but it was running.

After that a great looking Tecate -85 was found that i plan to give some love, mainly get away some rust this winter and try to replace/fix some wearable parts gone bad. Have started a thread about this one already but plan on staying with this thread from now on: http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=88524&highlight=swedish

And today a quite nice 200ES -84 was brought home.

So list of 3wheelers as of today:

Kawasaki 185
Honda 200X
Honda 200E
Kawasaki KXT 250 Tecate
Honda 200ES

And now for some pictures (not all are that new)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3178/2686199699_c925fb7423_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3156/2826178276_34ce2b84fd_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3216/2687016030_ea731fdc06_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3237/2912640814_8a261d61e8_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3151/2958701451_58d863c3f1_o.jpg




And since im writing i might toss in some questions directly.

What is the best source for new parts, mostly looking for some gaskets since both the 200E and 200ES seem to leak some oil around the top of the cylinder.

Some from the lever on top ...is that some decomp? Haven't dug into the manuals that hard yet ...they are more fun to drive. But might also be from the cylinder itself.

On the 200E the front end seems quite damaged is there some "sliders" inside that wear out? If its to much work and expensive it will probably end up welded stiff. But the ES is in alot better condition so hopefully some greasing and new fork boots might help. But from what i read they are hard to come by. But maybe some Endurobike stuff might be possible to shorten and add.




P.S i will try to suck out as much help as i can with these bikes and hopefully ill be able to return some also.


Cheers!

/Johan

[Eric250R]

Very nice collection..... and :welcome:

[4 wheels?]

I think my 84 leaks a little oil. It isn't much, but it is good to know the head is getting oil.

[firehart]

Its nice to see 3 wheelers from all over the world.

[piroguedog]

welcome. and nice bunch of toys ya have there. you might try bikebandit.com for some stuff as well as some part #s for parts that are not in production.

[freaksfix]

What is that trailer? Got some closer pics? Nice bikes by the way..

[Jonpin]

I understand what you mean about the madness these bikes are addictive cant stop buying them iv got 4 basicly 2 just happen to be real epensive buckets of bolts right now and i realy mean in buckets :) but your bikes seem to be in decent shape you have alot to work with and also wanted to say welcome to the boards

[Dirty]

What is that trailer? Got some closer pics? Nice bikes by the way..


Here is another picture, maybe not much better but can take some closeup pictures next time i visit my "summerplace" where i have some of the machines, own a forrest estate i inheritated so the machines get to do some work (mostly hauling myself and a chain saw or fuel for the excavator).

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2045/2686201211_699680f311_o.jpg

Its a homemade trailer, my sister and dad made the parts and a co-worker of hers helped out with welding the aluminum.

The wheels for it we found at a hardware store.

/Johan

[Texas 200x]

Looks like a beautiful place to ride! Man I wish I could park my 200x and cars in the house!:lol: But seriously I like the trailer and the snow pic. I wish I could get some snow here. As for parts the cheapest oem parts I've found is DGY.COM for the parts I needed they were the cheapest. Not sure if the ship overseas though. Nice collection!

[petesatc]

Hey Johan,
i got the honda parts you need .. all new and best bit i'm in the UK so cheap and quick shipping .
Please PM me if your interested.

thanks
Pete

[Dirty]

Seems my latest buy have some gas leak problems and have had earlier in its life also as u can see:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3211/2967000193_202de86ebd_o.jpg

The inside:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3041/2967000251_2962688b17_o.jpg

Leaking from one of the bubbles:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3185/2967000293_4e6547cb6e_o.jpg


Its the 200ES have to look into the Red Kote i have read about in other threads!

/Johan

[Dirty]

Time for some picture with a 3wheeler at work:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/2975132077_6cbda0b5a4_o.jpg

This machine will probably end up with some bars welded to the frame to hold small threes away from the brake and gear lever. Just need to get it running a bit smother first. Has very bad idle.

Its the 200E btw. Not sure what i would call it in english but in swedish i call it "skrutten" its the swedish word for whats left after u have eaten an apple.

/Johan

[Dirty]

As requested some more detailed picture of the trailer.

(Sorry that some of them include my father dont be scared)

And i was abit wrong about the creation its all my sisters work and a 2 co-workers one that helped out with bending the metal and one that did the welding.

My father only bought the wheels and got the axel for it.

Now pictures:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3146/2995306473_6980d44327_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3005/2995306483_52124d4677_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3199/2995306493_e309b3f103_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3248/2995306509_88d266ee6f_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/2995306517_69b3deb248_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3165/2995306527_14049e39e9_o.jpg

If anyone is interested i can measure the size also.

/Johan

[jeffatc250r]

Nice trailer!

[Dirty]

Have started a little with the work on the Tecate now.

Suspension linkage greased and a little rust removed:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3136/3015818623_77e2862be7_o.jpg

The tank had a little residue in it and the lower screen was loose and it smelled quite strong wonder what fuel was in it but the guy i bought it from competed with rally cars so maybe he had some kind of race fuel in it?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3186/3015818711_a61c50d222_o.jpg

Can u see any damage what so ever on this piece?:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3003/3016652778_713975bf66_o.jpg

The pipe has a little color:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3027/3015818897_a19df7c45d_o.jpg
Worth doing anything about it? And if so any suggestions?

Also got my "baby" into the hot garage for some service. Will probably just lube everything up have some strange sounds from the front end, brake or bearing i guess:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3158/3016652966_9871d27e64_o.jpg

Anyone have a service manual for a Kawasaki KLT 185A -86 ?

Have searched for it but haven't had any luck yet.

/Johan

[Dirty]

Found some more rubberparts that have some damage!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/3045875662_6ec10498e7_o.jpg

Have read about the alternator giving up on these. Will it just stop run or will i damage something if it breaks? Might be worth upgrading it even if it costs quite a bit especially since the swedish currency have lost some value compared to the dollar last few months.

EDIT: Fixed with some glue

/Johan

[Dirty]

Dissasembly done by now, in progress:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3016/3095402080_b254543ab4_o.jpg

But u tecate guys out there beware the front fender is razor sharp:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3263/3094576225_b7cf8a16df_m.jpg

Garage fix to stop the bleeding:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3033/3095402004_bb8f5e4133_m.jpg

Nice to find stickers like this intact on a more then 20 year old bike:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3049/3095401842_ec63af5d85.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3149/3094561139_bd08a74a11.jpg

Steering bearing looking great:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3253/3095402148_fb3bd791fe_o.jpg

Front axel had some white powder on it, dried grease?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3095/3094561099_fc10e255cf_o.jpg

And a bearing seal was bad, did they come with closed bearing on the front end stock? Dont look like that when checking the workshop manual but maybe it was changed between -84 and -85.

Some rust that is hard to get to so will try these rust eating organisms here:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/3094560853_6c4cb1578c_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3135/3094560889_cd1a8a3085_o.jpg

Sprocket and disc protector undamaged apart from some rust:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3049/3094560921_5a4b5a3050_o.jpg

A little more cleaning and the engine is good to go:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/3094561019_c159fd4456_o.jpg


The rubber between the carb and engine had some minor cracks, so would like to get hold of a new and also a swing arm protector ...wonder how hard they will be to come by?

/Johan

[ScottZJ]

Man that tecate looked pretty mint to me! It goes to show when you tear something totally down you can find issues or flaws. Still looks like a great project......good luck bra.........peace.

[oscarmayer]

sweet!

best place for parts is ebay especially for you. not everything will be found new as they don't make these anymore, but you can find good deals and some nice stuff.

[Dirty]

sweet!

best place for parts is ebay especially for you. not everything will be found new as they don't make these anymore, but you can find good deals and some nice stuff.

Hasn't anyone around here with access to a CNC machine gotten to the point where they started making molds for some of the plastic/rubber parts and doing some homecooked stuff?

At least the swing arm protector cant be that hard to make a 3 piece mold for if u have a machine and some CAD-skill.

Found this site: http://www.smooth-on.com/

Have had mail contact with bikebandit.com but seems it impossible to know if they have the item before the actual order is placed and then they only charge u for the stuff they can deliver. So if i order from that place and they dont have the vital stuff i will just end up with seals and stuff i can get localy even if it will cost a bit more and pay a horrific shipping for it since the shipping cost is very high from this site at least international shipping.

/Johan

[scooterroo]

well the 84/85 t3's are alot harder to get parts for then say honda's. for the intake boot your best bet, if its only minor cracking, is to go get yourself some plyer grip dip at your local hardware/ autoparts store and use a small model car paintbrush or something to that sort, and give it a coating or two with that stuff. will seal them cracks quick. finding a new one is rare, some pop up here and there, but go for good money. what other parts you looking to get?


ps- bike bandit sucks when it comes to kawasaki t3 parts, be fore warned!!!

[Dirty]

well the 84/85 t3's are alot harder to get parts for then say honda's. for the intake boot your best bet, if its only minor cracking, is to go get yourself some plyer grip dip at your local hardware/ autoparts store and use a small model car paintbrush or something to that sort, and give it a coating or two with that stuff. will seal them cracks quick. finding a new one is rare, some pop up here and there, but go for good money. what other parts you looking to get?


ps- bike bandit sucks when it comes to kawasaki t3 parts, be fore warned!!!


Plyer grip dip? The rubber used to coat the handle of tools?

Also looking for the swing arm protector, it has lost one ear:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3073/3097060904_bc1b7b730d_o.jpg

But will try to use some glue and a really thin sheet metal to rebuild the ear and some protective plastic film on the swing arm to protect it from the metal part i add.

The rest is just some seals and a copper gasket for the exhaust, might be reusabe but should be no problem finding localy, might even find something that fit at work and then i will just STEAL it ...ops i mean i will borrow it without asking.

And a big thx to everyone helping out.

/Johan

[Tecate 50]

The intake boots are discontinued. If you have minor cracks, they can be restored with no problems. I had (tecat-z) on this forum restore 2 of them for me. They came out better then new. Contact him for the materials needed.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I'm jealous. Tecates in Europe seem so easy to find. Hee they are hard to find and 250R's are a dime a dozen. I love me some Tecates.

[nd4speed]

If you want to make a new intake boot, then buy a Boyesen Rad Valve for a KX250, cut the aluminum pipe, and weld it on so it is like the stock one.

The magnets were glued on the flywheel and when the glue fails the damage begins.

[Dirty]

If you want to make a new intake boot, then buy a Boyesen Rad Valve for a KX250, cut the aluminum pipe, and weld it on so it is like the stock one.

The magnets were glued on the flywheel and when the glue fails the damage begins.

Thanks for the advice, but i dont think any cracks are all the way through yet so might go with trying to add some rubber to it. Must look for that tool grip rubber in black have seen it in red and yellow i think.

And also have to read up on the magnets failing, can do some serious damage i guess. Will sure be worth adressing that problem before it happens.

/Johan

[nd4speed]

I rubber coated mine with Rustoleum Grip Dip but it does not seem to be gas resistant. It works fine for the outside. I sold one I coated on ebay and the buyer was very happy with it.

On the KX250, aftermarket ones, and most motorcycles the magnets are riveted on.

[brapp]

rickey stator sells the statpr and flywheels to update it to a banshe style system

[Meat-BoX]

Im suprised that only one person mentioned just how nice that Tecate is. That this looks like one of the best original ones I have ever seen. That is rare indeed. I also noticed that the KLT is darn sweet. You find the nice ones. :beer
Good luck on the Restorations. That Tecate is gonna scare ya:w00t: :w00t:
As for that Trailer, around here I could just see Farmers and just about every hunter Lugging one of those around behind their Quad or Trike. Real nice work there. I would produce more and sell them. I wish I had one for my quad. Pulled a 7 point buck out of the woods the other day. It kept sliding off the rear rack so I ended up laying it on the seat and sitting on it all the way home.:eek:

[Dirty]

Im suprised that only one person mentioned just how nice that Tecate is. That this looks like one of the best original ones I have ever seen. That is rare indeed. I also noticed that the KLT is darn sweet. You find the nice ones. :beer
Good luck on the Restorations. That Tecate is gonna scare ya:w00t: :w00t:
As for that Trailer, around here I could just see Farmers and just about every hunter Lugging one of those around behind their Quad or Trike. Real nice work there. I would produce more and sell them. I wish I had one for my quad. Pulled a 7 point buck out of the woods the other day. It kept sliding off the rear rack so I ended up laying it on the seat and sitting on it all the way home.:eek:


Really like the small Kawasaki, only downside with it compared to the hondas is that it tends to go straight ahead a bit more easier with the hondas when U-turning and similar. But then the KLT has the reverse that none of my other trikes have.


It sure did scare me tried the brakes a little at low speed and glad it was good bite in them later on the test run when i bought it would have been embaresing crashing it.



Is it best to replace both the Stator and Flywheel? Also need a new airfilter, maybe there is some site out there selling both the Ricky Stator stuff and airfilters.

Would like to get as much as possible from the same dealer since the shipping alone will probably cost me around $100 (and when importing into sweden a 3% handling fee is added and on top of that 25% taxes, and that is on the total amount of both items and shipping together, not fun to live in a country with good wellfare when u are healty).


/Johan

[nd4speed]

Maybe a PVL complete ignition would be cheaper since it is made in Germany?

[Dirty]

Maybe a PVL complete ignition would be cheaper since it is made in Germany?

Having a hard time finding any site selling these items in Europe ...have to work on it.

Tried a little today removing rust with electricity quite good reslut as u can see in the picture, piece was only partly submerged in the electric bath and it was VERY rusty and im sure we could have gotten a better result but didn't have more time.

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/Rust%20removal/dsc03297large.jpg

Also working on a private server for hosting my pictures so if u have trouble seeing the pictures i post from now on please tell me and i will try to sort it out.


/Johan

[scooterroo]

very interesting way to remove the rust. seems to work good.

[Dirty]

very interesting way to remove the rust. seems to work good.

Some more pictures from the testing can be seen here:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/Rust%20removal/index.html

/Johan

[oscarmayer]

what solution is that?

does the neg cable have to be out of the fluid, or can it be sumerged too?

[oscarmayer]

the place i always talk about will do anything if there's enough interest.

[Dirty]

what solution is that?

does the neg cable have to be out of the fluid, or can it be sumerged too?


As i understand it its prefered if the cable is out of the fluid on the item u want to derust, on the sacrifice piece it doesn't matter. U need to remove rust enough to get good connection to the metal parts.

The solution is a tablespoon of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_carbonate in 5 liters of water maybe a little more in our test since we didn't have anything to measure with and a really small container.

EDIT: A WARNING u get http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen gas from the reaction so ventilation is important or do it outside.



the place i always talk about will do anything if there's enough interest.

What place?

/Johan

[Dirty]

Any friendly american around that might help me out with ordering some stuff. As of today im looking for stuff from 3 different places and just shipping to sweden would run me between $70-$120 from each of the items. Figure it would be some money to save if i could get help ordering the stuff within the USA and have them shipped together to sweden.

Sure i will give u some money for your trouble and pay for everything in advance if required. Would prefer paypal for transfering money.

If u feel like helping out give me a PM.



And also if i want to change the flywheel to prevent damage will it be enough with just a flywheel from Ricky? Or do i need the stator also?



Thanks in advance

/Johan

[Dirty]

This is what my intake rubber looks like:
http://dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03308large.jpg

Haven't done anything to it yet but this is probably the worst crack but none is all the way through:
http://dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03311large.jpg

No visable faults inside the cylinder:
http://dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03314large.jpg

Some of my rust removal looked similar all the way to the bottom (or top since the frame is upside down) but that was impossible to photo, before:
http://dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03266large.jpg

During the removal with electricity, had some buildup on the sacrifice rod inside so i had to pull it up quite a few times and scrape that away, also changed the liquid a few times:
http://dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03317large.jpg

Result, and looks good all the way down, will be coated with some rust resistant paint ...will have to do a shorter removal again since after only 2 days in a warm dry garage, rust is visiable again since this leaves the metal very exposed:
http://dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03333large.jpg

/Johan

[nd4speed]

You might what to check out this Belgium company for an ignition system:

http://www.hpi.be/applist.htm

They also have universal analog and digital ignitions like PVL

[Autophysn]

CLASSIC, love the trailer

[Hoosier_Daddy]

When you use the electricity to remove the rust, how long does it have to sit before the rust comes clean?

[Dirty]

When you use the electricity to remove the rust, how long does it have to sit before the rust comes clean?


The big bolt we spent maybe 2 hours on but that was as u can see heavily rusted and we also started of with some zinc coated piece as sacrifice part and that might have slowed it down not really sure.

The gas pedal seen in the other pictures with very little rust maybe took 20 minutes.
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/Rust%...val/index.html

Used 12 V and it ran about 1,3 Amps.



The inside of the frame maybe took about 2 hours also but only used 5V since it was so close between the frame and sacrifice part also this was zinc coated when i started so i had some white foam and it might have slowed it down.

And as i said it was also problems with buildup on the sacrifice rod so i lost current i think and least the bubbles from the gas slowed down until i took it up and cleaned it.

Doesn't seem that its very aggressive against paint either but also as said earlier this leaves the metal very exposed so some paint or similar is must be applied as soon as possible after.

Trying to get hold of the chemicals for DIY electric zinc plating that can be useful for restoring bolts and stuff some might be hard to get hold of so getting them back in shape at home would be great ...chemicals can be hard to get hold of it seems at least in reasonable amounts, tough to buy 25kg of something for some test. Found this site http://www.caswellplating.com/ but paying $120 just in shipping feels a bit to much.

/Johan

[Dirty]

Thanks for the tip about the liquid rubber for tool handles:

This is what the intake looks like.
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03359large.jpg

Since its going a little slow with the Tecate i started a service on my KLT, something was wrong in the front wheel and turned out the bearings were bad.

This was also a little problem but could solve it with that liquid rubber also:

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03353large.jpg

Mounted it so it could be "glued" back together:

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03358large.jpg

Coated the inside also and added some vulcanizing tape to rebuild the end and coated with rubber over, finished and remounted on the bike:

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03363large.jpg


And beware if u tear apart the front end on a KLT to grease things up, it has open bearings damn did i spend along time crawling on the floor to find that last ball.

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03341large.jpg


Is it irritating that i add big pictures directly? Most of the users seem to use the attachment function but im having trouble with seeing attached picture most of the time i only get to see top half the picture if i click on it.


/Johan

[nd4speed]

Are you using the FIREFOX browser? Pictures half load when I use Firefox, but load when using Internet Explorer.

I like big pictures, but not so big as to have to scroll left and right.

[MedicineMan]

Time for some picture with a 3wheeler at work:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/2975132077_6cbda0b5a4_o.jpg

This machine will probably end up with some bars welded to the frame to hold small threes away from the brake and gear lever. Just need to get it running a bit smother first. Has very bad idle.

Its the 200E btw. Not sure what i would call it in english but in swedish i call it "skrutten" its the swedish word for whats left after u have eaten an apple.

/Johan


We call that part the "core".
It's what hols everything else together, as well as the seeds that allow for future apples.

And that's why we call dedicated members of our MC club "core" too.

[Rex Karz]

Great Post, Dirty.
One thing to think about on the Tecate Ignition issue is that the Ricky Stator replacements tend to go bad a lot, sometimes 2 or more are bad from RS. Ive heard the PVL is the best way to go, but not having headlight windings would kill the idea for a lot of people. Gotta be able too night ride! My buddy Brent was having all kinds of problems with the RS's and put a PVL on it and it started first kick. He said it even runnsbetter now.

[Dirty]

Are you using the FIREFOX browser? Pictures half load when I use Firefox, but load when using Internet Explorer.

I like big pictures, but not so big as to have to scroll left and right.

Yes i use firefox.


We call that part the "core".
It's what hols everything else together, as well as the seeds that allow for future apples.

And that's why we call dedicated members of our MC club "core" too.

Well the real name for it in swedish is "kärnhus" and would translate to corehouse. But since its the part that u dont eat and it gets thrown away most people call it a "skrutt" a word for something worthless.

Know translating some words can be really hard and also explaining stuff.


Great Post, Dirty.
One thing to think about on the Tecate Ignition issue is that the Ricky Stator replacements tend to go bad a lot, sometimes 2 or more are bad from RS. Ive heard the PVL is the best way to go, but not having headlight windings would kill the idea for a lot of people. Gotta be able too night ride! My buddy Brent was having all kinds of problems with the RS's and put a PVL on it and it started first kick. He said it even runnsbetter now.

Really want to keep the headlight, but since most riding will be during the summer when its never that dark up north maybe it isn't worth keeping.
It runs fine right now and just want to do something before i have any failure, the Tecate has very few hours of use on it but things like glue and rubber parts might get bad over time anyhow.

Would it be possible to use the stock stator with a RS flywheel? Just to get away from the glued magnets?

/Johan

[Dirty]

Had to clean up the garage since it was going to be used for slaughtering a moose a few days ago so all the small cleaned up parts was moved for storage in a room inside the house ...great that my dad have a few rooms he doesn't use =)

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/Tecate/dsc03371large.jpg

Also got started on the rear end on the KLT seems one rear tire is quite bad, u can see its already a tube inside it but it wont last long looking like this:

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03391large.jpg

Rear end overview:

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03392large.jpg

And maybe the why its be sounding a bit rough, rust in the muffler, might have to cut it in half to see how bad its inside. Anyone know how its built up, i guess its made up of chambers since i dont see any possibility to take it apart as many modern mufflers that have "muffling cotton" inside them (is that the right word? just translated the swedish words).

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03394large.jpg


If anyone have a workshop manual for the Kawasaki KLT185A -86 that would be great, can probably figure out how to remove the rear axel to grease the bearings but a manual is allways good to have.

Have been looking at the exploded view i can find and cant see any locking clip but im still not sure if it only removes one way from the shaft drive?

http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/KUS/2/09/0202/D-9.Gif

http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/KUS/2/09/0202/C-11.Gif



/Johan

[fatcat]

from the looks of the diagram the Axel bearings and the gears are held in gear oil you shouldn't have to grease them part # 92002 looks like the filler hole and part # 92066 is the drain plug so drain the oil and replace with 80w90 gear oil and your good to go

[Dirty]

from the looks of the diagram the Axel bearings and the gears are held in gear oil you shouldn't have to grease them part # 92002 looks like the filler hole and part # 92066 is the drain plug so drain the oil and replace with 80w90 gear oil and your good to go


Users manual states 10W40, same as the engine back in the shaft drive house. And yes the bearing inside that should be oil lubed but the bike has a central carrier that i doubt have any oil lubrication and i want to check up on the rear brake since i have som squeeling sound from the rear also that is brake related.

/Johan

[Dirty]

Update:

Took the exhaust of will clean it up and paint it with some black high temp paint.

Not funny with bolts looking like this holding the guard on it:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03400large.jpg
Alot of WD-40 and maybe some luck and it came out without much trouble.

Exhaust:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03402large.jpg


Also had the rear brake apart and lubed things up:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03398large.jpg

While rearranging the wires as the picture in the manual show i found this:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03403large.jpg

And the wires look like this now, feels a little tight but moves from side to side without problem will have to take it easy in the begining when i get it back until im sure it wont stretch on any wire at full turning:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03404large.jpg


Over and out from Sweden

/Johan

[Dirty]

The muffler for the KLT seems quite bad, anyone have any idea what might fit as a replacement?

Have given the exhaust some fresh high temp paint, will put the things back so far while i look for another muffler:

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/KLT/dsc03439large.jpg


Started working a little on my 200ES ....if it now is a ES, had my doubts already when i bought it since a ES should have shaft drive, right? and reverse, says in the owners papers its a ES and when i look up the VIN number i dont get much information at all, just that its a 200cc manufactured in Japan.

On a patch on the frame it says that its a 200E 1984, the same as my beater but on that it says in the owners paper that its a -84 200E.

But haven't seen any manual for a 200E -84, but have one for the -83 and everything i have been looking at so far seems to be right.

Need to get it sorted out so i dont order parts for the wrong model.

Anyone have a better VIN-decoder that shows anymore info?

And if u use these micro organisms that eat rust to clean out a tank, place it in a big plastic container ...i didn't and some new hole opened up and i lost quite alot of it and it ISN'T cheap in sweden i can assure u.

But it worked well:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03410large.jpg

Used this product to line the tank:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03442large.jpg
Will add a 2nd layer in a day or 2

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03445large.jpg


Some bearings are bad and the chain is busted and some rust but should be possible to get into shape:

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03447large.jpg


/Johan

[Dirty]

Todays progress on my 200E:

New chain in place, worked on the bike since i had used the old to pull the new over the front sprocket and already throwed it away after counting the number of links needed.

Used a dremel copy to easy up the pins:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03481large.jpg

Then chain breaker, only have a small one since its possible to bring along on travels and its still usable in the garage without much trouble after getting the hang of it:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03482large.jpg

After some hammering on the outer chain cover it started to get back into shape, some rust and cracks that will be welded later:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03483large.jpg
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03484large.jpg

Had some headache about the rubber seal around the chain cover that was busted but finally i found a nearly long enough one in great shape in the leftover box from my other E that is in worse shape so used that one and a part from the busted one:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03489large.jpg


New bearings in the front wheel, used the front axel to line things up and the outer ring of an old bearing with a slit in it to drive the bearing in:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03488large.jpg

Handy little tool to bring wires back to life:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03492large.jpg

Just remember to put something on the floor underneath the other end:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03491large.jpg

Thats all for today!

/Johan

[Jonpin]

what is the tool your useing to get the wd into the wire? that would be awsome i have some wires the could realy use that and to keep good ones good .is it home made or something you can buy?

[Dirty]

what is the tool your useing to get the wd into the wire? that would be awsome i have some wires the could realy use that and to keep good ones good .is it home made or something you can buy?


Bought it at a big swedish autoparts store called "biltema" for like $5, its not perfect wont hold the pressure if its a thight wire but then i just spray some in even if it leaks a little and let it sit there and add more a few times, remove and pull a few times on the wire back with the tool and more lube, repeat until it feels like new.

/Johan

[Dirty]

Things are looking good got some more parts today so have most of it back together by now.

Front brake cleaned and greased:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01678large.jpg

Got the sealings for the front wheel, had to wait a little for them:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01680large.jpg

So the front end i back together, didn't pull apart the stearing head, will have to wait until next service.

Had a little clearence problems with the chain cover but fixed it by moving it a little, u can see the original holes and the new in this picture:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01681large.jpg

Rear brake, the surface on it had started to loosen, so some glue and a clamp while it dried, looked like the other one was glued by the previous owner also:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01682large.jpg

New chain and axel in place:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01683large.jpg

Brake drum and nuts on their way:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01684large.jpg

Dad helping out a little, putting the cover on, miss one clip but will have to work with 4:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01685large.jpg

And last for today a new spring for the brake pedal:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc01694large2.jpg

Soon i hope ill be able to post some winter action!!!

/Johan

[Dirty]

Plastic is assembeled:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03493large.jpg

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03495large.jpg

http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03496large.jpg

Installed a inline fuel filter to be safe:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03497large.jpg

One time gloves are perfect when working with air filter oil:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03498large.jpg

Filter oiled and flange greased, ready to go back in:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03500large.jpg

Now time for a real question, going to perform an oil change and read in the manual about the oil filter rotor:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/oilfilterrotor.jpg
Does it usually build up dirt here? A little worried about taking the engine apart to much since old gaskets tend to rip.

And also about the cam chain tensioner:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/camtensioner.jpg
Is it just to losen that bolt just a little?

Even if i have lost my rubber cap:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03501large.jpg

/Johan

[Jonpin]

i changed the oil in my 83 200e but i never cleaned the rotor thing probly is a good idea to do it and mine had a screen that looked like a themble in the oil drain to make sure the spring is in there to hold it in place mine was missing just got a new one at a hardware store ,as for the cam chain tensioner just loosen it up and the spring inside should adjust it correctly for you and you just tighten it up and your good.

[Dirty]

Todays progress.

Battery in place:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03502large.jpg

Now to a bad thing, the liner for sealing the leaking tank didn't work out as good as it first looked, like the walls have dripped down forming a quite thick cover in the bottom of the tank and it isn't hard.
Have placed some gas in the tank to see what happens, it doesn't leak but if the thick bottom will dissolve and plug filters and carb?
Maybe something that slowly spins the tank around during the drying of that stuff would help.

Started work on a rear skidplate on steroids today:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03507large.jpg

/Johan

[Dirty]

Parts for the skidplate are finished, welding next.
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03511large.jpg

My father helped out with the blacksmith work, dont have any anvil but this solid metal piece worked great:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03508large.jpg

Changed my mind and tore the front end apart:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03509large.jpg

Fresh grease, knew now that it had loose balls in the bearing to took it apart slowly and caught them with a magnet:
http://www.dirtyserver.mine.nu/200E/dsc03512large.jpg

Tank back on and it fired right up, will hopefully finish the skidplate on sunday, if not ill get the wheels back on, take it for a spin and start with the engine, change oil, check valves.

/Johan