cheapest place to buy 250R aftermarket radiators

[EAT_A_450]

Anyone know a cheap place to by 250r aftermarket radiators? Used would be even better.....

[Taiser]

There are always TONS of them on e-bay. That's where I got mine for about 60$! That included all the hoses, protective plastics and the coolant bottle!!! Took some time until I found a decent set, mine looked almost brand new, not even a bent fin!

[EAT_A_450]

For aftermarket radiators?

[Dirtcrasher]

I'll agree with the other poster.... No need for AM radiators, many MINT radiators barely fetch 30$ @ EBAY.

I haven't the slightest idea whom if anyone makes tougher radiators if thats what your looking for?? I'm sure other makes and models that have more "meat" could be made to fit though.

[EAT_A_450]

Yeah- I'm having heating issues- Need more "meat".

[edog]

These are the ones that i will be going with this winter.Ebay will be the cheapest.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h196/edog_02/radiators2.jpg

Hope you have some coin!

[EAT_A_450]

Yeah, I Know $409

[Taiser]

Yeah, I Know $409

EGADS :eek:

How much heat are you guys putting out to require 400 bucks of cooling?? :wondering

[KASEY]

i still feel you have other issues,,,, stock rads kool my 500 just fine,,,

[edog]

EGADS :eek:

How much heat are you guys putting out to require 400 bucks of cooling?? :wondering

My stock rads are leaking a little.
They keep it cool.
I am going to need them with my 330 ESR powervalved motor.
Time for some new shiny ones.:D

[ChrisD]

are you running a stock cylinder? If so, the stock radiators should be fine. If you are running hot, then you either have a jetting issue, a water pump issue (or some other clog in the system), or you should try a cooler plug (B9ES or similar...B9EV, BR9IX etc). I have run several different fully modded R motors over the years and never had a cooling problem until I went with an aftermarket cylinder.

I have an ESR 330 motor and those things run HOT. I use 40 Below coolant and do own the PWR radiators. I bought mine off of Ebay and paid $379 a year ago. Even with the bigger radiators, it is still hot, but not extremely.

My buddy also has an ESR330 motor and he still uses the stock radiators and just accepts that it runs hot.

Please give more detials and we can see if we can solve your heat issue.

[edog]

are you running a stock cylinder? If so, the stock radiators should be fine. If you are running hot, then you either have a jetting issue, a water pump issue (or some other clog in the system), or you should try a cooler plug (B9ES or similar...B9EV, BR9IX etc). I have run several different fully modded R motors over the years and never had a cooling problem until I went with an aftermarket cylinder.

I have an ESR 330 motor and those things run HOT. I use 40 Below coolant and do own the PWR radiators. I bought mine off of Ebay and paid $379 a year ago. Even with the bigger radiators, it is still hot, but not extremely.

My buddy also has an ESR330 motor and he still uses the stock radiators and just accepts that it runs hot.

Please give more detials and we can see if we can solve your heat issue.

How hot do you run with those rads and 330?

[EAT_A_450]

ChrisD...... finally someone who has the same issues! I do have a ESR310 cylinder and it's on the last bore with a race gas dome. and I do run a br9es plug. I have a pt pipe, cr ignition and cr v- force. I run a coolant called liquid performance- suppose to be cooler than engine ice. I don't have a gauge but I keep my temp gun near by and when the head or radiator gets over 230 I cut her off. What temp did / does yours run with and before the radiators? I have retarded the ignition and have my pwk38 jetted 180, 50 and dgh on 4th clip- I have a 185 that I'm putting back in till I get her right just in case but she runs rich like that- I have also retarded my ignition quite a bit. Any thing else that I haven't tried? Thanks for your help!

[EAT_A_450]

anyone else?

[ChrisD]

230 is about right. They are very hot and can hurt horsepower.

read this thread....

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=143813

You have done everything I can think of. I tried retarding the timing, but that was more for trying to get the motor to overrev when wide open. You may have to go the route I did.

Like I said earlier, my friend runs his 330 with stock radiators and has not blown his motor. It's just hot.

I would not make it too rich because that will rob power too. I would jet it correctly and deal with the heat issue separately.

[EAT_A_450]

ChrisD, Have you ttried the cfm coolers? If so how much did it help? How much did the Rad's bring the temp down?

[EAT_A_450]

I have probably a dumb question but........ the stock head gasket restricts the water flow some through the cylinder because it covers up each water jacket a little and the stock cylinder has smaller water jackets than the prox cylinder which has o-rings instead of a head gasket. My question is couldn't the water be flowing through the rad's too fast for it to cool properly? Could that be why the prox cylinders heat more than the 500's do?

[Dammit!]

I have probably a dumb question but........ the stock head gasket restricts the water flow some through the cylinder because it covers up each water jacket a little and the stock cylinder has smaller water jackets than the prox cylinder which has o-rings instead of a head gasket. My question is couldn't the water be flowing through the rad's too fast for it to cool properly? Could that be why the prox cylinders heat more than the 500's do?

That's not a dumb question at all. You might be on to something with that. If the coolant is moving through the system too fast it will definitely heat up. I've read reports from several people with similar setups to what you have and you're not the only one that has that heating problem. Instead of spending big money on rads, you might try to come up with a way to slow the coolant flow down a little and see what happens.

[EAT_A_450]

Thanks! Glad some1 is on the same page. I'm gonna call prox and see what they say. Also, I tore down my water pump/ counter balancer yesterday and found the bearings on the balancer were wore slam out. Now the gear was fine so the water pump was turning at the normal speed but not smoothly- wonder if that coulda been an issue?

[Andrew_250R]

I have probably a dumb question but........ the stock head gasket restricts the water flow some through the cylinder because it covers up each water jacket a little and the stock cylinder has smaller water jackets than the prox cylinder which has o-rings instead of a head gasket. My question is couldn't the water be flowing through the rad's too fast for it to cool properly? Could that be why the prox cylinders heat more than the 500's do?

If you take the thermostat out of a car engine and run it the engine will over heat. You have to have some sort of restriction, in the car it is a thermostat.

[Tri-Z Pilot]

maybe try running a t-stat setup from a tri-z? i think te t-stats are more there for a faster warm up though. i am also thinking that stats r there to run your engine warmer as too cool can rob power, a stat sticking closed will cause you to overheat, removing it will cause you to over cool.
this is probably different from bikes though as cars rads have a bigger surface area for more effective cooling, and they have a secondary cooling source via th cooling fan.
just some food for thought.

[EAT_A_450]

actually no thermostat can make it heat as well because the water can flow through too fast for the radiators to cool it which imho could be the problem on the atc 250r's because the radiators are very small anyways.

[Tri-Z Pilot]

hmmm. i never had a car overheat without the stat, was always over cooling. i see the principle though. if that were the case wouldnt more bikes overheat, the tri-z is the only thing i know of with a t-stat.

[Andrew_250R]

hmmm. i never had a car overheat without the stat, was always over cooling. i see the principle though. if that were the case wouldnt more bikes overheat, the tri-z is the only thing i know of with a t-stat.

All my buddies who derby cars put a restriction inplace of the thermostat, because just running with nothing will cause the cars to over heat. I am sure the thermostat won't keep the car cool enough either.

[NINJA]

Typically a two stroke engine with a cooling system designed with a thermostat will run too hot if the t-stat is removed. The reason being is that the coolant doesn't stay in the hot spots long enough for the heat to transfer to it and be carried away to the rads. A 2-stroke engine designed with a cooling system that doesn't utilize a t-stat relies on the flow rate of the water pump impeller mainly for temp control. Naturally a high comp. modified engine will produce more heat and have a higher operating temperature than a stock engine. If your impeller has worn bearings or a worn housing, then this is most likely your culprit. If your rad cap isn't functioning properly, this can overheat you also.