no T mark on flywheel on 85 110

[kilabeez0]

I dont see the T mark for TDC on my flywheel after removing the cover. I only see a funny shaped arrow about 1/2" long followed by a bunch of numbers. Is this arrow the mark for TDC? I went slow and I'm positive there is no T anywhere.

[Dirtcrasher]

Were you working on the cam or something??

Some of those marks are impossible to find.... I think most of them have a T for TDC and an F for firing which usually happens a few degrees before TDC, depending on which way the flywheel spins when you kick it over.

Best thing to do is to put the piston at TDC, slap the cover back on over the dowel pins with a bolt and look inside the inspection hole. Use a sharpie marker if you can't see anything and mark it as a reference point. Yank that cover off again and I'll bet you will see some sort of a faint line there even if you can't find the "T" and another line should be close by for the "F" or ignition timing spot.

Some of them are very faint, some are rusty and some are lost when the flywheel is turned down like mine on the 86 200X. I have to time my valves by simply putting my piston at TDC and double checking it - I have no "T". But, if I ever truly had to have a T and an F, I could just put a dial indicator on top of the piston to find T or TDC and then use a degree wheel rotated back and forth and reference the spec given by the shop manual (like 8 degrees before TDC) and that would give me a place to dremel grind a couple of lines on the flywheel.

You truly can time an engine without the T as long as you are spot at TDC. One tooth really is quite a bit far away, just do the math - as an example, if there are 36 teeth on a cam sprocket, each tooth would be 10 degrees apart so you would clearly see it being off if you were off a tooth or so either way..... With my cam, it's welded on so I'm either at the right spot for the compression stroke or 180 degrees off and it won't run and my head has to come off to rotate the cam lobes away from the rockers on the compression stroke in order to fix it! Many other motors have 2 sprocket bolts and if your 180 out, you can just loosen the bolts under the access cover and spin it 1/2 revolution. You don't have to compromise any gaskets on many of the other Honda thumpers with a cam sprocket thats bolted on....

Either way, just run it through without a plug using a socket on the crank, spinning slowly and watching and you shouldn't hurt anything.

You do have to be very careful though, lots of people bend valves by not double checking and a sloppy timing chain and malfunctioning tensioner doesn't help either. Hope that made sense :D Let us know how you make out and good luck!

[HuntingFor1]

That isn't the T mark. If it is like the flywheel in mine, the T mark is shortly after the numbers though. Like maybe an inch or so but you will see a F mark before the T mark if you are rotating the engine counter-clockwise. I can't figure out how to post bigger pictures on here but if you send me your Email address I'll send you a picture of mine

[kilabeez0]

i found it after taking the recoil off. i just had too many beers by the time i was trying to find the T. Now i've got everything all back together and no spark. I dont get it I put the head on the jug after seeing it was at TDC. Also made sure the crank was on the T mark. Put the cam in with the lobes down, had to turn it to the left like halfway so the bolt holes lined up with the sprocket, and installed the cdi. no spark. i tried spinning the rotor on the cdi 180' just to check and still nothing.

What I didn't get is why I had to spin the cam to the left to get the holes lined up. Dropping it in with the lobes down leaves the mounting holes on the top and bottom when they need to be on the sides with the sprocket.

Anyone point me in the right direction to get spark? It had spark before I tore it all down.

[Taiser]

Check the leads coming out of the stator with a voltmeter, if it has voltage then work your way up the wires checking for continuity. Check the coil for specs with an ohmeter. Check the CDI and all the wiring at the cam head. Coils and CDI's RARELY die, but sometimes they do.

I'm guessing it's the wiring from the stator. It don't take much to snap them at the grommet where it comes out of the engine, but the voltage test should reveal that. You may also have a grounding problem somewhere on the harness. When I rebuilt my 110 I installed a new wiring harness. Got it on e-bay for about 15$, but you can easily build your own, there is not much to them! Good luck!

[HuntingFor1]

On thge 110's, if you line the T mark up on the flywheel and O mark on the cam gear with the reference marks then you should be set as far as the mechanical timing goes. The holes in the cam gear are offset to where you can't get it 180 out like the 185 and 200's if my memory is right. Is it not firing or just not cranking? If it isn't firing do like Taiser said and get a ohm meter and check the stator and coils to be sure they are in spec and check all the wiring connections to make sure they are making contact. If it's firing and not cranking, check the timing again to make sure it is on and then check for compression.
Let us know how it goes.

[Gag_Halfront]

I put the head on the jug after seeing it was at TDC. Also made sure the crank was on the T mark. Put the cam in with the lobes down, had to turn it to the left like halfway so the bolt holes lined up with the sprocket,

Why would you turn the cam or the crank to make the sprocket line up? Why not turn the sprocket leaving the cam and crank in place? Perhaps I'm just not understanding what you are trying to say.