tricks on removeing old rusted exhaust studs

[threewheelin-feelin]

hey guys i need some input on this...ive gone true this many times before and all ways seem to break them...what are some tricks you guys use to remove these old exhaust studs from 350x's with out breaking them?

[njeffery]

I weld a old screw diver to it and take it off.

[Dirtcrasher]

I've welded nuts onto them and the heat helped get them out. I've got vice grips on them and backed them out too.

But honestly, I just had an X friend snap off all 4 350X studs flush with the head. I used a center drill and got them dead nuts. Then I used a .062 and drilled them all the way through (there is a dead spot after the stud and before the head casting so no fear of drilling thru the head) I just kept working my way up until I could helicoil all 4 of them.

To me, extractors rarely work, left handed drills - about the same. When things are corroded you can nearly forget getting them out at all even with PB Blaster, WD40 and or Aerocroil (best I found to date) If it simply broke off, then you have a greater chance of those things working.....

There are some simple basics to drilling that can make or break the repair. Use a variable speed drill, a sharp bit and oil and clean out the hole often. Starting off in the center is mucho important and keeping it there is just as important.

I bolt stuff down in a mill when it has to, and MUST be PERFECT. But, most people do not have access to a milling machine.

I have had tons of success drilling by hand with just a couple of tips. You, as the drill man can watch one plane of site, you need a buddy to watch the other angle of the drill bit to keep that going straight and the best way to do both of these is to thread in a nut/bolt whatever to something just next to it that will give you the 2 lines of site as a guide to follow.

Hope that made sense to you.....

Also, if it's a part that is super rare and expensive, bring it to someone. It just isn't worth risking damage to some items. A good used 350X head is about 200$ and it's a crapshoot buying one described as "good condition"

I take every precaution to keep bolts from snapping. Everything I rebuild gets a tap run thru it and a stainless fastner is always my choice for exhaust studs. I put high temp never seize on those and every other bolt and I mean ALL OF THEM!!, I put waterproof grease on the threads and it always helps me get them apart at a later date even after heat and water have attacked them.

[fabiodriven]

I'd start by welding a nut or bolt to your existing stud if they're not already broken. Then heat the head, the faster the better. The heat will expand the meaterial the head is made of. The reason you don't want to heat it slowly is the longer it takes, the more heat is going to absorb into the stud itself. If the stud is expanding at the same rate as the head, you're defeating the purpose of using a torch. Use plenty of lube. When you see bubbles soming out between the threads of the stud and the head, it's time to hit it. I'd use an impact gun, but be very easy. The impact, if used properly, has much less of a chance of breaking your stud and will remove it easier than if you try it by hand.

[Daddio]

I've welded nuts onto them and the heat helped get them out. I've got vice grips on them and backed them out too.

But honestly, I just had an X friend snap off all 4 350X studs flush with the head. I used a center drill and got them dead nuts. Then I used a .062 and drilled them all the way through (there is a dead spot after the stud and before the head casting so no fear of drilling thru the head) I just kept working my way up until I could helicoil all 4 of them.

To me, extractors rarely work, left handed drills - about the same. When things are corroded you can nearly forget getting them out at all even with PB Blaster, WD40 and or Aerocroil (best I found to date) If it simply broke off, then you have a greater chance of those things working.....

There are some simple basics to drilling that can make or break the repair. Use a variable speed drill, a sharp bit and oil and clean out the hole often. Starting off in the center is mucho important and keeping it there is just as important.

I bolt stuff down in a mill when it has to, and MUST be PERFECT. But, most people do not have access to a milling machine.

I have had tons of success drilling by hand with just a couple of tips. You, as the drill man can watch one plane of site, you need a buddy to watch the other angle of the drill bit to keep that going straight and the best way to do both of these is to thread in a nut/bolt whatever to something just next to it that will give you the 2 lines of site as a guide to follow.

Hope that made sense to you.....

Also, if it's a part that is super rare and expensive, bring it to someone. It just isn't worth risking damage to some items. A good used 350X head is about 200$ and it's a crapshoot buying one described as "good condition"

I take every precaution to keep bolts from snapping. Everything I rebuild gets a tap run thru it and a stainless fastner is always my choice for exhaust studs. I put high temp never seize on those and every other bolt and I mean ALL OF THEM!!, I put waterproof grease on the threads and it always helps me get them apart at a later date even after heat and water have attacked them.

Amen DC. You pretty much nailed it down. Another thing to put antiseize on is the spark plug threads.
I've gotten a few exhaust studs out that were broken off flush by carefully using a mig welder to add small amounts of material one on top of the other until I can get the vice grips on it. One of the mechanics at work broke an easy out off in an exhaust stud one day and I used that method to get it out.

[threewheelin-feelin]

yeah this are he original studs from 85...when i did my top end rebuild i broke one putting the exhaust back on...so i had 3...well one nut rattled loose and i tried to tighten it to day and as soon as i turned it it broke...so 2 isnt holding it tight and its leaking real bad...im gonna give it one shot with the vise grips and torch tomorrow then ill have to find a welded:wondering