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cheaptecate
06-29-2008, 06:30 PM
I was riding the Tecate when all of a sudden it stopped. I couldn't kick it over and thought I locked it up. After a little bit I got it to turn over and got it to start. I have another cylinder and piston so I decided to run her home. I almost got there. It locked hard, almost threw me over the bars.
I figured the piston and cylinder were toast. I began taking it apart and found the cylinder was free and looked good. This makes me think that my flywheel fell apart. I haven't gotten it off yet because I don't have a puller. I don't want to hit it even thou I think it is junk anyways.
Now to my question, What flywheels will fit. I know the KX250 will fit and maybe the 125, but is there any others. There are a lot of 60 and 65s on ebay. Would one of these work if I got the stator and cdi.
Any help is welcome

Thanks
Mike

dirtface
06-29-2008, 07:27 PM
I put a Ricky Stator flywheel and stator on my 1984 Tecate and have had no problems. The magnets on the Ricky Stator flywheel are encased in metal, so they can't just come loose like the stock ones do. 9 chances out of ten, if your magnets came loose in your flywheel and it's stock, you will need a flywheel and the stator plate.

cheaptecate
06-29-2008, 07:36 PM
I know the ricky stator parts will work but they are expensive. I would like to find a cheaper alternative. Most flywheels did not fall apart like the Tecate ones. I would like to find something OEM that i can snag off ebay.
Thanks
Mike

3Razors
06-29-2008, 08:31 PM
Dont hit the flywheel with a hammer. You will be doing damage to the crank and possibly throwing it out of balance. The tecate flywheels were junk to begin with due to the magnets being glued in, and with more than 20 years passed they are even more junk now. Your choices are kx250 stator/flywheel combo, PVL, or the Ricky Stator flywheel. If you want lights the Ricky setup is the only option.

dirtface
06-29-2008, 08:35 PM
If you don't want to spend the money on a Ricky Stator setup, then you definately won't want the PVL. Unless you get extremely lucky and pickup a used one for the "right" price. Keep searching for a KX250 setup, and good luck.:beer

ThreeKing
06-30-2008, 02:19 AM
For $250 the Ricky Stator setup is bargain priced; A PVL retails for $500 plus. A dirt bike CDI will be required if you try to use a dirt bike flywheel and stator. It's one of those extra expenses for Tecate owners. My 85 with a PVL is running excellent now.

OZQUAD44
06-30-2008, 06:33 AM
You might be lucky with the KDX200 or KDX250 flywheel/ignition combo. That way you could have lights.

Given the choice though, I'd go the Ricky Stator gear.

scooterroo
06-30-2008, 07:26 AM
if you go with a kx250 setup, you will need the entire thing. stator, flywheel, and cdi box as they have a different plug type then the t3 setup. finding yourself a complete kx ignition could be just as expensive if not more expensive then a ricky stator set up. i agree with everyone else, the ricky stator setup is probably the way for you to go. pvl is a nice setup, but will run you about 400 large. the ricky stator setup is 250 for both flywheel and stator. good luck.

cheaptecate
06-30-2008, 01:46 PM
I just pulled the flywheel and CRAP, it's perfect. I must have something inside messed up. Now I don't know what to do. Guess it's time for a little investigating.
Thanks
Mike

Brockey
06-30-2008, 01:55 PM
Darn, well that suxs. Good luck with it man. Hopefully it isnt too bad.

scooterroo
06-30-2008, 01:56 PM
sounds like its time for some open heart surgery!!

cheaptecate
06-30-2008, 04:44 PM
Who knows, fixing this problem might be easier than finding a good flywheel (and might be cheaper :rolleyes: )

Mike

cheaptecate
07-03-2008, 10:10 AM
Well, I got the piston off today and the rod feels pretty good but the crank won't spin a full revolution. I think I somehow toasted a crank bearing. I wonder if when i put the cases together I damaged it. This motor was fun to rebuild the first time but i am not looking forward to it this time. At least if it's just a bearing it will be cheap.
Mike

Erics350x
07-03-2008, 01:17 PM
pull the right side cover and see what you can find

cheaptecate
07-07-2008, 09:19 AM
Just pulled the drain plug and someone replaced my oil with milk:wondering . Crap. Who would have thought that a high revving 2 stroke would have a problem with thinned down oil.:rolleyes: I guess I found the problem, now to find time to fix it.
Mike

scooterroo
07-07-2008, 10:41 AM
sounds like a leaky water pump impeller seal perhaps? so whats the problem?

brapp
07-07-2008, 11:03 AM
he ha sa tecate and realised the problem and secretly is lookign for liquid cooled r lol just kidding guys

cheaptecate
07-25-2008, 11:01 AM
Well, I finaly got to the tecate and found the problem. The right side crank bearing went south for the winter. One of the balls came out of the carrier and wedged between the races. The left side didn't feel the greatest either.
Is there a better way to put the cases together than beating them with a dead-blow hammer. Could I sand down the crank a little so the bearings slip on better.
I guess it could have been worse. This is a pretty easy and cheap fix.
Mike

scooterroo
07-25-2008, 11:55 AM
i have heard people put the crank in the freezer overnight which kinda helps it shrink a bit, believe it or not. the cold will do that, even though it doesnt look as if it has shrunk at all, and then put the cases in the oven at like 400-450 degrees for a bit to heat them up which causes the bearings and case halves to expand. heard they go together alot easier this way. just a thought.

SWIGIN
07-25-2008, 12:04 PM
not thinned...water got in the bottom end

Hoosier_Daddy
07-25-2008, 01:27 PM
Would a bad crank bearing allow water into the crankcase? I didn't think it would but I don't know. If not then you have more then just crank bearing problems. Maybe the waterpump seal is bad?

fabiodriven
07-25-2008, 04:01 PM
i have heard people put the crank in the freezer overnight which kinda helps it shrink a bit, believe it or not. the cold will do that, even though it doesnt look as if it has shrunk at all, and then put the cases in the oven at like 400-450 degrees for a bit to heat them up which causes the bearings and case halves to expand. heard they go together alot easier this way. just a thought.

This does work- I used to work in a machine shop that did boring/sleeving and that's the correct way to install a sleeve, not a press. The cylender would bake in the oven and the sleeve would go in the freezer. After that the sleeve would just drop right in and you'd even have 3-5 seconds to line up the ports before the two became one.

cheaptecate
07-25-2008, 06:03 PM
I think the bearing and water are two different problems. I think the bearing was a mistake made putting the cases together. If I recall right, my gasket and seal kit didn't come with a water pump seal so I didn't replace it. I guess I'll have to replace it. I'll also have to take the crank to work and put it between centers and make sure it is still straight and true. I probably tweeked it beating stuff around. I guess I should get or make the proper tools and retire the BFH.
Thanks
Mike

OZQUAD44
07-25-2008, 11:31 PM
Mike
I've rebuild my Tecate twice, Sleeved, piston and rings once. Then bottom end rebuild once.
If you need to bash it to get it together something is not right. I don't know exactly what stage your up to now, but sanding the crank to get a bearing on is way off the mark. Sanding the surface to clean it is the only reason why you would want to sand any asembly
If you are careful there are a number of ways to remove the old bearings, but You need to use a press to get the new bearings onto the crank. End of story.
I do the whole rebuild myself but because I don't have a press at home I usually take the crank and the new bearings down to a motorbike shop to split the crank to put the new conrod on and to press on the new bearings.
They will line the crank up properly too, which must be done properly.

As for your leaking issues. Its related to the seals in the crank housing, not your crank bearings per say. Make sure you put all NEW seals back into your engine when reassembling it. Otherwise you will be doing the same job all over again in two weeks time. Do it right and do it once!

When you are putting the crank housing back together make sure that the mating surfaces between the two crank halves are not damaged in any way. They must seal correctly to ensure good combustion pressures. If you used a screw driver to pry the halves apart you probably have damaged them. Fix that up before you proceed with assembly.

Good luck Buddy

cheaptecate
07-26-2008, 01:13 PM
Oz, thanks for the info. When I put it together the first time I pressed the bearings in the cases and then put the crank in. Maybe it's easier to press the bearings on the crank first. I work in a shop so i can press them on and also make sure the crank is straight. I put a new rod and bearing in the crank and they look great. Also the crank seals are new and were not leaking. I think it is the water pump because that is the only seal I didn't replace.
I know all about freezing sleeves in. In the last shop I worked in we used nitrogen. WOW, that stuff will shrink metal a long way. I don't have access to that anymore but I will try heating the case a little.
Thanks
Mike

P.S. the last time I thought I did everything right so I would only have to do it once:rolleyes:

cr480r
07-27-2008, 01:36 AM
Its either a head gasket or cracked cylinder.... water pumps leak into the transmission not the crankcase... the water pump probably failed from being run dry...

cheaptecate
07-27-2008, 02:15 AM
The water was in the trans. This problem is not related to the bearings.

cr480r
07-27-2008, 01:54 PM
I was riding the Tecate when all of a sudden it stopped. I couldn't kick it over and thought I locked it up. After a little bit I got it to turn over and got it to start. I have another cylinder and piston so I decided to run her home. I almost got there. It locked hard, almost threw me over the bars.


Did you figure out what caused this?

fabiodriven
07-27-2008, 03:44 PM
Did you figure out what caused this?

I think he said it was a main bearing- one of the balls was rollin around loose and bound up in between the races.

fabiodriven
07-29-2008, 04:59 PM
I found this stator and flywheel on Ebay, they don't look stock to me. The starting price is very low for aftermarket stuff. I don't think they know what they have here- it's Ebay listing #360075078406

cheaptecate
07-29-2008, 10:10 PM
I don't think that stator would work on a tecate. Mine only has two bolt holes in the stator. Anyway, my stator and flywheel are good. I got my crank trued as good as I could at work last night. Now I just need to order bearings. How true does the crank need to be. I could only get it to .005 runout. Do you think this is close enough?
Mike

cr480r
07-30-2008, 02:27 AM
How true does the crank need to be. I could only get it to .005 runout. Do you think this is close enough?
Mike

Not even close.... dont even bother putting it together...spec is .001... I got one within .0015-.002... and it shakes like a damn jackhammer... spend the money or keep trying...

scooterroo
07-30-2008, 09:09 AM
never saw a stator for the t3 that looked like that. kinda looks like junk to me.

cr480r
07-30-2008, 10:17 AM
I found this stator and flywheel on Ebay, they don't look stock to me. The starting price is very low for aftermarket stuff. I don't think they know what they have here- it's Ebay listing #360075078406

I saw that listing... that is a yamaha banshee flywheel and stator... even if it would fit the crank, it would never fit under the ignition cover....

fabiodriven
07-30-2008, 10:37 AM
Yeah, once Cheaptecate pointed out the three holes in the stator I realized this stuff was wrong. They should definately fix that listing.