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View Full Version : Tri-Z Flywheel removal help for idiots...



i58829
06-02-2008, 09:41 PM
EDIT *I need an easy to follow way to get the flywheel off an 85 Tri-Z, is the 12mm nut std or reverse threads? Whats the best way to get that loose, and which way do i go from there? Thanks in advance, TC...*

well i guess i gotta stick my tail between my legs again. The 2 strokes haven't been good to me lately, but i bought this Tri-z because i really wanted an 85.5, it turned over, had compression, all the gears driveway tested fine, but after i took the stator cover off it was DRY and very rusty/had gunk in the bottom, and also a good bit of water came out. I couldn't believe it, up north this thing would have been froze solid after one winter, but i guess all it took was another dishonest seller and some luck on his part, i thought i checked it over well enough and was thinking it would fire. How would water get in here? The wire plug is there and in place as long as i've seen it and the bolts/gasket were nice.

So now its off to the parts bin, not sure i'm gonna be buying or selling but the good news is i figure i can get my money back in pieces, TC...

maggiesboy
06-02-2008, 09:51 PM
I'm not real sure what you are bent about, the stator on the Z is a dry one (no oil)

i58829
06-02-2008, 10:12 PM
But rust and water??? Doesn't that mean the rest of it would be bad shape? I gave up at that point because i was disgusted, is it worth another chance? It also doesn't have any spark which is why i took the cover off in the first place.

You'll be my hero is this thing is salvageable as is, i was going to pull the other cover and head but i'm easily angered...

factoryX
06-02-2008, 10:16 PM
20+ year motor depending on if it was sitting might have got water in the motor... my 85.5 flywheel looks like that but not as bad.

i58829
06-02-2008, 10:36 PM
I guess i should take a step back and explain that i was told this was running fine just beat up, but always stored in a garage since his brother beat it up. I can't imagine the water and crud came from a garage, it must have spent a fair amount of time in the weather...

i58829
06-02-2008, 10:39 PM
double post...

ceaserthethird
06-03-2008, 12:43 PM
You might just be freaking out, Take a break come back next week.;)

Could be the brother ran threw some water and drained a little into the stater cover.

Most people will tell you it's in mint condition and runs perfect, when you hear this just make sure you get a good price.:beer

Some People are Honest & some aren't:shiftyeyes:

DeePa
06-03-2008, 12:57 PM
drain the oil and see what that looks like

ATC-Eric
06-03-2008, 01:04 PM
Yep, drain the oil and see if theres water, or coolent in it.

Check the coolent for oil.....


As far as the stator, pull the flywheel (WITH a puller) and check out the stator. Might just be to rusted up to spark (my guess)

The flywheel should be salvagable, post some pics when you pull it.

If you end up needing a new stator, I know Ive probably got one laying around for ya.


Oh yeah, do you have a manual?

ATC-Eric
06-03-2008, 01:07 PM
Oh yeah, DONT pull the clutch cover and head unless theres a problem.


Make sure your jetted right, clean up that stator, and hit the trails!!!!!!!!!!!!

brrcuda
06-03-2008, 02:44 PM
you can get water in there from washing it too much. The grommet for the wires is usually the culprit. I had more than a few ounces of water come out of my tri-z stator and always worked fine - still does.....

If your gettin good spark - i'd say run it.......MO:w00t:

money89tractors
06-03-2008, 03:11 PM
My 250R and my 200X both had water in the cover. Pull the flywheel off and clean every really good. Check the oil for water or coolant.

If there is water or coolant in the oil, leave the drain plug out and fill the rads up and crank it over a few times. If water comes out of the drain, it usually means theres a bad head gasket. You could even go as far as to leave it sit overnight with paper under the plug.

After the oil checks out, put the cleaned flywheel back on and check for spark. It should fire. Makes sure the carb and air filter is clean before you try to fire it up.

-Phil

scooterroo
06-03-2008, 03:57 PM
the rubber grommets the stator wires go thru suck. i have seen it before. my blaster as a matter of fact had water in there, a bit of rust, but not bad. thing still fires first kick. i learned a quick and easy trick is to use some silicone around the grommet where the wires come out. nothing gets in there now. dont let a tiny thing like that discourage you. no spark could be a few different things. bad stator, bad coil, fouled plug, bad ground, bad connection somewheres, cdi? check the obviously easier things first. connections from stator to cdi, cdi to coil, on off switch, grounds. go from there. could be something simple! good luck with it.

i58829
06-03-2008, 05:35 PM
Ok so i've had a little time to calm down, i'm going to trace the wires the best i can this evening to make sure everything looks like it has a home. I will also pull the fly wheel off for a couple pics, do i need anything special to get it back on or will the nut draw it tight?

I do have a manual so i can try to troubleshoot/trace the electronics that way. I'm not really sure why i was thinking there should have been fluid in there but dry wasn't a good word to use, i just didn't expect water and that much rust. I'd say it had a good 3 ounces of water plus the grime in the bottom. Anyway since she got bumped to 2nd shift i can't do much til the kid goes to bed, but pics will be up later this evening...

SWIGIN
06-03-2008, 05:51 PM
its 100% normal to have a rusty flywheel in a dry setup like that...no biggy


just lightly sand the stator and flywheel and rub a thin coat of oil on them....works for me

tri-Z ripper
06-03-2008, 06:07 PM
Any Z is a good Z just needs alittle TLC!!! dont give up just SPEND SPEND SPEND!!

wad
06-03-2008, 06:26 PM
You would make my year if you part it out, ill take the wheels and all the black plastics!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i58829
06-03-2008, 09:02 PM
I need an easy to follow way to get the flywheel off an 85 Tri-Z, is the 12mm nut std or reverse threads? Whats the best way to get that loose, and which way do i go from there, can i use a regular 3 sided puller or should buy the specific one? Thanks in advance, TC...*

DeePa
06-03-2008, 09:10 PM
go buy the correct one. that flywheel isnt goign to be easy to remove, so might as well do it with the right tools.

do not buy the ones on ebay, they dont fit the tri-z flywheel well at all.

go to the motion pro website, and buy the 27mm left handed threaded puller with a 12mm right handed bolt in the center of it.

DeePa
06-03-2008, 09:11 PM
heres the link to the tool

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0026/

i58829
06-03-2008, 09:20 PM
Thanks for the link, so the nut is std thread? Any tricks to getting it off? All i'm getting is either the motor turning or the rear wheels moving...

DeePa
06-03-2008, 09:35 PM
you need the puller...the pulle rthreads into the flywheel, left handed threads. get that tight, then thread the bolt into the puller part, and that pushes against the crank and pulls the flywheel.

dont forget to take the nut off first...

That nut is standard thread. Ive used an impact with good luck. put it in gear, and have someone stand on the rear brake. It should lock it up tight enough to get it off.

Ive used one of those strap wrenches/rubber thingy to hold it tight enough too

i58829
06-03-2008, 09:41 PM
Ok sounds like a plan, i'll hit up the honda shop to order the puller after work. I've ordered motion pro cables and what not from them without issue...

honda250sx
06-03-2008, 10:38 PM
DEEPA is all over this like white on rice!

MOTION PRO = Best puller IMO. Top notch stuff. Worth the bucks.

Just bump the nut off with an impact gun. Be sure to remove both lock washer and flat washer prior to pulling.

I ALWAYS put some grease on the threads of the puller and on the end of the crank.

Tighten the left hand threaded part of the puller first. Be sure that the threads in the flywheel are free of rust. May have to get a little wire brush or a wire wheel on a dremel to get them clean. They are a very fine thread so be careful.

Once clean and the left hand threaded part is tight just tighten the bolt that pushes on the end of the crank by hand and bump it a few times with the impact gun and she will fall off.

Tecate250
06-03-2008, 11:03 PM
Well you can make a puller out of your ordinary 4 prong puller. The ones for 2 and 3 bolt. Just grind down 2 bolts on 2 sides so it slides into the holes on the flywheel and turn them 180 degrees and tighen the puller and off it comes. Can be used on many flywheels.

honda250sx
06-04-2008, 12:22 AM
I would never do this. Simply because if its done incorrectly one can damage the stator. Do it right. Or do it twice...

clutchcargo
06-04-2008, 06:40 AM
You can get a tusk brand puller from rockymountain pretty cheap and it works great. Keep in mind when the flywheel "pops" off, you'll think you just broke it. But that's just how it sounds.

Bryan Raffa
06-04-2008, 07:07 AM
I would never do this. Simply because if its done incorrectly one can damage the stator. Do it right. Or do it twice...

I usually just beat on it with a hammer till the magnets fall out.. then I can get my big crowbar in there:lol: :banned:

DeePa
06-04-2008, 05:43 PM
im all over this because ive gone through 3 of those shabby pullers before i finally bought a good one.

ive also removed the flywheel by taking the nut off and starting the motor and letting it run until the flywheel scoots across the garage floor. Turns out you can mash up the crank threads this way. I got lucky but it was funny as hell watching that thing bounce across the floor.

i58829
06-04-2008, 08:09 PM
Haha well IMHO i think i'd be better off spending 20 bucks on a puller than 2 hours of my time trying to make something out of nothing. I should have the puller in a couple days, monday at the latest and we'll see how it goes. If not there will be a whole lot more tri-z parts on e-bay...