Yamaha Tri-Moto 175: Which is better? Premix or Fuel Injection?

[pimpallic]

I recently picked up a 1984 Tri-Moto 175 and have a couple questions...

1. Is it better to leave it oil injected, or spend a little time to plug the carb etc. and premix it?

2. I was looking for some answers, and came across post: Picked up a tri moto today,pics and questions (http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=41355&highlight=yamaha+175)...
I read
... if it had a puddle of gas in the air box it was either on its end/side or the floats are seriously out of wack.
My trike also has what looked like a bit of gas in the airbox, but it runs and rides just fine, so is there anything I should worry about?

3. Anything I should watch out for, check, or do before I really start riding it?

Thanks

[2quicktecate]

premix is safer. thats how i ran my yt175

[pimpallic]

I know it's safer, but does it really effect or do anything to the performance? Anything I should watch out for?

[2quicktecate]

the oil pump seem to go out. so just block everything off and run premix

[pimpallic]

Is there any warning or can you tell when the pump goes out, before there is any damage? I heard that it will start revving REALLY high?

[Erics350x]

no it wont rev high when the oil pump goes, but it will usually smoke less and run stronger. A good way to monitor is by watch the oil level and checking the spark plug ever so often.

[chavo80]

dont you mean oil injection??? the first thing i did when i got my triMoto was blocking off the the oil line and removeing the the pump to make it a premix set up>maxima 44:1 with 91 octane> still need to fab up a plate for the oil pump hole!

[pimpallic]

Ok thanks, I think I might find some time and just premix it.

[Vealmonkey]

I'm sure the stock oil pump is better if properly calibrated and working, but if you premix, as long as you have gas, then you'll have oil. If your 20 plus year old oil pump fails, then you know the piston will seize and maybe do some expensive damage. Premixing in my book is cheap insurance. Also a cheap way to block the oil pump hole is to remove the oil pump and cut the oil pump shaft in 2, then remove all the guts. Now fill the cavity of the oil pump with jb weld and let harden overnight. Make sure no jb weld gets onto the outer pump piece messing up the o-ring. Now just bolt the jb welded oil pump body back into place and there you go. Just make sure the jb weld is fully cured.

[scooterroo]

the problem with oil pumps is them damn plastic gears for one. they are junk. the second thing about oil pumps is the inconsistant oil pressure your getting. remember the oil pump runs with your motors rpm's, the lower the rpm's the less oil to gas ratio you get, the more rpm's the more oil to gas ratio you get, so it's constantly changing. with premix, you get the exact amount you need no matter how slow or fast you are going. a constant ratio of gas to oil mixture. it will make the bike a bit snappier to, not much, btu a bit. block off the pump if you can get a kit for it, cut the lines and plug them, do whatever you have to. make sure you put a plugged of oil feed line on the carb too!

[Trikeaholic]

my 175 is still injected and seems to work fine. I might ride it once a year, possibly twice though.

[pimpallic]

Thanks for all the help. I'll be changing it over fairly soon.


Any suggestions on a good bottom-end oil?

[Vealmonkey]

I wouldn't recommend synthetic as it messes with the clutch fibers sometimes. Just a nice quality oil which you should keep changed regularly should do fine. I know it's 10w30 for the 125 so it should be the same for the 175.

[pimpallic]

Ok, so I'll look for a non-synthetic oil then for the bottom end. Thanks

[pimpallic]

Ok, today I finally finished converting the trike to a premix setup, and after a little tuning, I got it running. I am using a 40:1 premix, and the recommended 10W30 NON-synthetic oil.

I went for a 30 minute ride today and just as I was coming home, the trike stopped moving. It ran fine, so I checked to see if the chain fell off, but it hadn't, so I'm thinking the clutch is on a tapered shaft, and has now come loose. No matter what gear it's in, nothing...

Any ideas? Is the clutch on a tapered shaft, could that be my problem? What side of the engine is the clutch on, and how hard is it to get to?

Hope someone can help, even if its their 2 cents

Thanks

[Vealmonkey]

The clutch is on the right hand side and it's not a tapered shaft. Did you try adjusting the clutch plates? You should be able to remove the round cover with the dipstick without draining the oil, but be careful and put a catch pan under where the cover comes off of. If the clutches were really worn, the new oil might have just been too slippery for the thin clutches. But you won't know until you adjust the clutch. The clutch fibers aren't real expensive if you have to buy them and if you know someone that has a bead blast cabinet, then I would bead blast the clutch plates to rough them up some. You might want to see about getting a gasket set too if you don't already have one. These things happen sometimes with 20 plus year old machines so don't be discouraged. The kid I bought my yt125 off of, ran synthetic oil and it was too slippery for the old clutches. I replaced the fibers and the plates and the top plate and new springs and regular 10w30 oil and all was well, even better than the old clutches according to the previous owner.

[TriMotoMan]

I would go premix, because the injectors pretty old and might not have a consistant mix.
If you premix you could have it running the way you want it to:D

[pimpallic]

The clutch is on the right hand side and it's not a tapered shaft. Did you try adjusting the clutch plates? You should be able to remove the round cover with the dipstick without draining the oil, but be careful and put a catch pan under where the cover comes off of. If the clutches were really worn, the new oil might have just been too slippery for the thin clutches. But you won't know until you adjust the clutch. The clutch fibers aren't real expensive if you have to buy them and if you know someone that has a bead blast cabinet, then I would bead blast the clutch plates to rough them up some. You might want to see about getting a gasket set too if you don't already have one. These things happen sometimes with 20 plus year old machines so don't be discouraged. The kid I bought my yt125 off of, ran synthetic oil and it was too slippery for the old clutches. I replaced the fibers and the plates and the top plate and new springs and regular 10w30 oil and all was well, even better than the old clutches according to the previous owner.


I haven't touched it yet since it stopped working. I have a BAD feeling about it though because its not like it just slowly stopped working... I went down a really small hill and when I gave it a bit of throttle, NOTHING at all.

I am pretty sure something just "went" inside, cause it happened so suddenly. :confused: :(, but maybe not

But I guess I'll try adjusting it and seeing what happens.

P.S. How do you adjust the clutch?

[Tecate250]

Is it mint condition? Your lock washer might have broke that holds the clutch basket down. Or your shifter return spring might have broke, not letting it go into gear.

[pimpallic]

It shifts up into first, I can hear it click, but if I pull up again, it goes no further. The bolt (shaft going through the engine behind the cover) with the 2 nuts on it spins back and forth freely, and I think it will disappear into the engine if I were to take both nuts off and push it in (to the left of the engine), but I'm not gonna try that.

Anyways, is just supposed to spin and move side to side, or does it hook or thread into something in the middle or on the otherside?

[pimpallic]

Well I decided to "adjust" the clutch, and now I think I'm screwed. After adjusting, I started it and I tried shifting, and then I heard a really loud rattling sound. So I shut it off, took the cover off, and I found a piece of sheared-off thread from somewhere:mad: :mad:

So now I don't know where to start, and I don't even know where this piece of bolt came from.

[pimpallic]

ANY help is greatly appreciated on this.

[Vealmonkey]

The bolt could have been something from a previous owner. Did you try putting the cover back on and seeing if the trike would shift? The alternative is to pull the case cover over the clutch and looking to see if you could find where the bolt came from. What about the bolts that hold the little round cover with the dipstick, do any of them seem broken off?

[pimpallic]

I am 99% sure the bolt JUST got broken off, because it started to rattle just when I shifted. The bolt was INSIDE the clutch cover, and all the bolts for the cover itself are fine. The trike shifts, but doesn't go anywhere.

???:confused: :wondering :confused: ???

[pimpallic]

bump---

Anyone???

[Vealmonkey]

You need to take the covers off and take a look. We can speculate all day by until you look, it won't matter. Get a manual, it will be a big help. Alll is not lost. If the trike is still running, it isn't that bad. It could be the back of the clutch adjusting bolt for all I know. Get yourself a gasket kit too and clean out the insides while you are in there. I don't think it's that bad, but I'm here on the other side of the screen.

[pimpallic]

Ok, thanks, I'll take a look.

[pimpallic]

Ok, it's been a while, but I looked and found out that the bolt and gasket (reference numbers 25 and 26 in the diagram) were not even there, so I'm suspecting that was the thread I found, although I still haven't found the head of it or the gasket.:wondering

Besides that, I need to remove the clutch basket, but haven't been able to remove the nut holding it on, it has the same part number as the drive gear nut, which is a normal left-hand thread. My manual says to put a rag between the 2 gears to lock them, but even if I roll the rag really thick, the gears just wind up chewing it up.

[pimpallic]

Got it fixed, the whole clutch basket/assembly was put in wrong. Turns out the bolt and gasket I bought don't even serve a purpose...:confused: , it just stops one of the shifter levers from engaging into gear properly.:mad: stupid thing.

Anyways it's working and after a bunch of shens I didn't need to actaully do too much.:beer

[Vealmonkey]

Glad to hear it. Sorry that I wasn't more help, but I thought that it wouldn't have been too bad. Keep the pics coming. Let me know if you need a front fender. I'm pretty sure I have a used fender and I know I have a brand new maier fender if you need it.

[pimpallic]

Yea you had good advice though:lol: actually I have a bunch of spare parts and just happened to have a front fender that I just put on.

Matter of fact though, I need new back fenders because one side is cracked and falls into the wheel peroidically :rolleyes:
It's just that it is quite expensive for that whole piece, plus shipping for it would be crazy expensive :(

[Andrew_250R]

you could check and see if www.rockymountainatv.com has the fenders, they have free shipping on orders over $100. That is where I got the rear fenders for my 85R. $150 shipped.

[pimpallic]

Thanks Andrew. I looked, but unfortunatly they don't have any.:rolleyes:

[Vealmonkey]

One of the board members on here just bought a yt125 that had a spare roller frame. Someone was asking to buy the seat, maybe you could buy the fenders? Look under the thread my new $120 tri-moto 125.