Tri z clutch problem

[RID3R]

Found out my clutch may be slipping, so I took it apart and looked at it. It looked fine, the threaded bolt in the center was out far enough to rub a little into the cover. ??? I decided to put it back together and run it, I planed on getting a clutch kit anyway. The clutch didnt slip bad to begin with. I got it back together leaving the threaded bolt thing in the center out the same length it was. Then my cable was very loose, and couldnt tighten it up enough to work the clutch fully. So, the inner threaded bolt I put in farther and that fixed the problem, and the clutch now worked, or felt that way. Now trying to run it it, I put it in gear and it wont go no where like its in neutral still. Then also the clutch lever thing on the left casing with the spring that the cable goes too, anyway now that wont go all the way in its like it stuck. I really need to figure this out, I wouldnt want to take it to a shop and have them do the work. Thanks for any help!

[ATC-Eric]

Get yourself a manual, sounds like it just needs an adjustment. Read the manual, you can have it adjusted very quickly.

good luck.

[RID3R]

Thanks, ill probably get one off ebay, but all they have is the cd.

After some searching the threaded inner bolt is the "push rod" right? I remember the end was a little worn that goes inside. Could this be the problem? The engine lever seems stuck now too. But still it worked fine before. I have that rod all the way in, should it be? About how much should it maybe come out? Maybe it was too far out making the clutch "slip" to begin with?

[RID3R]

Also, is the 86 tri z clutch the same as an 87 yz?

[clutchcargo]

Also make sure that the ears on your clutch basket don't have any grooves in them. The edges of the clutch plates may be hanging up on the grooves. If so, then you can file them smooth for better clutch action.
Try and adjust that rod in small increments. A little turn seems to make a big difference.

[ATC-Eric]

If you look straight down at the motor, the clutch lever on the motor should run parallel to the case.

Dammit has a manual you can download, throw him a couple of bucks for it, then just print it out.

[RID3R]

Got it going today, worked fine I guess. A little better than before, when I first thought it was slipping. I dont know, maybe its nothing? The bottom end hits pretty good, but the faster I go it just feels funny, "feels" like its slows down, which obviously it dont but still. This all started when a raptor 350 stayed not far behind me in a race, I beat him but no way do I "smoke" him. Ive never had a tri z, so I dont know what to expect. Ill probably take it too a shop and let someone test drive it and see what they say though. Thanks for the info, I did file a few areas, the engine lever is fine now too. Ill make sure to get a manual soon enough.

[pickleweasel_00]

also make sure the cable isn't sticking. A new cable makes a world of difference :)

[RID3R]

I should have replaced the cable, just sold the new one I had though lol. Ill check the cable out more closely tomorrow though.

I was thinking, could it be my jetting maybe? Before it would rev more with the clutch possibly spinning now it just feels kinda slow topend wise. I dont know. Ill do a plug chop tomorrow. If this could be possible. I also have a k&n with drilled airbox. What filter setup would you guys run? About how fast too should an 86 tri z go with dg pipe/silencer too?

[RID3R]

Ive been riding it lately and it runs just fine. No problems at all. I would like to know what some define as "smoking" a raptor 350. Im starting to wonder if anything is wrong with it. Please help. I would like to begin mods and such besides wondering if I have a problem. I may take it to a shop this Wednesday, to check compression and have another test ride it. ???

[RID3R]

Could not sealing the dg pipe to the cylinder cause it to run crappy???

[pickleweasel_00]

could affect it some... If it is running properly, it should pull pretty hard through all the gears once you get it revved up enough. Whit size sprockets and rear tires are you using? You can play with different sizes of sprockets to get more acceleration but you will also give up a little top end speed

Also, what's the history of the engine? Carb ever been re-built? Top end ever been re-built? How long have you had it and what have you done to it so far?

[RID3R]

Ive sealed the pipe now, silencer I checked for any junk holding power back, all was good with that. Ive been cleaned the carb and checked the reeds, all that looked good. Im running stock gearing with 22's. I was told the motor was rebuilt.

Also, compression I checked. But since I dont want to kick it over due to a small crack to the cover (doesnt leak) can I pull it to get a good compression check? Could turning over the motor too much cause the compression to be wrong, too high??? The numbers I got I doubt are right. Too high I would think.

[Bryan Raffa]

you should pull that clutch cover off and have it welded...before its un repairable..

[03 ORANGE SHEE]

i cant do it this weekend, but if you bring it up on the 10th or 11th, ill look at it for you, nathan

[pickleweasel_00]

yeah, best thing to do is have somebody else look it over so you can get a better informed second opinion

[RID3R]

Its actually at a shop right now, just took it yesterday. They are going to check compression and test ride it. And see what they think. Nathan, thanks for the offer, wish I seen earlier, I will let you know.

The compression I got when I tested was around 220, 200 and 195. Pulling different legnths. The guy at the shop said it dont matter how many times the motor turns over, it will only get so high, I got up to 220. What do you guys think? I doubt its that high.
I plan on seeing if I get rid of the tri z kick setup and use from an 87 yz to kick back.

[RID3R]

Im wondering if maybe the piston is backwards. I remember seeing a thread about this and that it might have been causing lack of power on a tecate I think it was. Could this be possible?

[Bryan Raffa]

thats a easy one too check.. pull the pipe off and look in .... if you see a solid piston wall its in right.. if you see the two intake windows its in backwards;)

[RID3R]

The piston is in right, the shop checked compression and got an average of 190. They said they took the airbox lid off and it ran better. Said it needs more air or less gas. If I have a dg pipe/silencer, no airbox lid, k&n, about where should my jetting and needle be? If it needs more air, how much will dropping the main jet one size affect it?

[RID3R]

If anyone can get me the stock 86 carb specs id appreciate it. Ive searched but cant find anything, need it asap.

[Bryan Raffa]

:beer :beer

[RID3R]

Raffa thanks for the carb specs :beer but the z still is not running right...

Heres the deal, someone please help me out the best you can, I know jetting is hard but im deffinatly not gonna take it to the shop again, they screwed me out $300 dollars and my engine was WAY to lean!!

They put the stock 320 jet in (was a 350), and it had the stock pilot in so they left it. They didnt take the time to check the needle to see if it was the correct one or the position of it ( and ive yet to check it) I felt like asking whos bright idea was it to run a stock main with dg exhaust and drilled airbox, let alone what might be done to the engine. But they were nice enough not to charge me $10 a day to keep it up there before I could get it so I left it alone and just asked for my 350 jet back and to go ahead and buy a 330 to have on hand.

Tonight I did a plug chop on it, the white part, forgot what its called was still pretty white and the little peace that goes over it was a very, very light brown. I let it idle and did 2 full throttle runs with it ending with the plug chop. Im still wondering why I was dumb enough to run it. Anyway I put the 330 main jet I had in and decided to tape up the drilled airbox to check. Did a plug chop and the plug didnt change at all, looked fairly new like was. So now im not getting a reading from the plug, guess to lean to even do so.

Im about to go out now and put the 350 back in, check the needle, and untape the holes. The problem was said in the first place to be too rich. I plan on running without the airbox lid now to help give it more air and just run it with the 350 main and see if helps lean it out where it should be. Any ideas anyone??? Dont know whats done to the engine, has stock carb, drilled or I could just tape the airbox for now, and dg pipe/silencer. Should my pilot go up? If I run a 350 without the airbox lid now, and with this setup does that sound about where it should be? Thanks in advance....

[RID3R]

Also, its got the same gas in it, and it really hasnt been ridden in a little over a month or so, could my oil have seperated from the gas some, causing it to run leaner too???

[Tri-ZNate]

In my experience you need to run it for at least 5 min before you'll get the correct color. Usually closer to 10 min

If all it is, is a dg and a removed air box lid all it should really need is 1 or 2 sizes up on pilot and same with main. Put the 350 back in and run it. go fatter and jet down if it will give you more comfort

[RID3R]

It probably got 5mins of full run time. It barely smoked too, my tecate has a good brown color but still smokes a bit when you first start it. I do have the 350 in it now, the needle was the right one and was in the second clip position from the top, I lowered it one, and also turned in the pilot/air screw some. Ill test it tomorrow and see........thanks!