questions, speculations about my R.

[300rman]

ok, when i upgraded to my 300r from the 250 topend, it seemed to have a drop in power. it definitely sounded meaner, but didnt seem to pull as hard.
down the road, i would almost get thrown off slamming third, and it would come up in fourth if i wasnt careful.
now, it will hardly do it from first to second. forget about third.

stats are:
250: boyesen PRO reeds, balanced crank no counterbalancer, possible porting???, keihin carb about a 34 mil, dg pipe, some kind of goofy spacer plate. definitely had not been stroked though.

300: 38 mil keihin, stock crank, counterbalancer installed, ported, dg pipe, Vforce 3 reeds.

the balanced crank is going back into the motor as we speak, had flywheel problem with stock crank. boogered threads.

after getting the head ported, i noticd a huge difference in throttle response, sound, and it definitely widened the powerband. but i noticed no difference in the pull out on the road. still doesnt pull the tire up.

jetting seems spot-on, throttle is crisp, returns to idle fast, great plug color (not too light, but not dark either.

it makes no sense to me at all. only thing i can think of is that the clutch is shot.
The clutch lever is WAY too hard to pull even with a longer EZ-PULL lever, leaving me to believe that it was junk before and someone put nasty springs in to to "fix" it, and with the added horsepower of the 300, the clutch cant grip, so it slips.
i have never felt a stiffer clutch, on a road bike, hi-performance bike, quad, whatever. its like trying to use a lever to disengage a car clutch.

In comparison to a BLASTER clutch lever, how should mine pull? a little harder i would think, but not a whole lot that would kill your hand after shifting it fast down the road a few times?

i ordered new VESRAH friction discs, sanded the metal plates with 360 sandpaper (Think i should go rougher?) and i ordered new OEM springs, which cost me 9 dollars a piece Dammit

any other theories guys?

[cr480r]

its easy to tell when a clutch is slipping... the rpms climb... with no wheelie or roost... the 250 was probably a better matching overall combo... taller gearing may help make better use of the larger displacement... since it may not rev as well as the 250

[300rman]

its easy to tell when a clutch is slipping... the rpms climb... with no wheelie or roost... the 250 was probably a better matching overall combo... taller gearing may help make better use of the larger displacement... since it may not rev as well as the 250

thats just it. when i would hit third, fourth, or fifth, the rpm pf the motor wouldnt drop a whole lot. at least, from what i remember. i hadnt really paid attention to it, but after thinking about it, it started to make sense.

i will be going to a 13T sprocket on the front, i think it has a 12 on it now. ill count when i switch.

it didnt slip in first gear or second though, and if i left it in third on a track, it wouldnt slip noticably either. but every time i banged a gear, not much of a rpm drop, and yea, i let off the throttle every shift lol. ive never powershifted it till recently, and even shifting nicely with the 250 would try to buck me.

[FLOTEK]

your going to want to raise your gearing and get a better pipe ... dg is probably the worst pipe avaialble on the market get a free flowing intake setup ,you should run a clampon KN filter and no airbox ,that engine really needs ot breathe ,there is very good topend punch but you gotta unleash it .an exhaust pipe must work in unison wit hthe new porting also id inspect the clutch while its apart.a cheap 25 year old small bore pipe designed for a stock 250 will not perform in sync with a highly modifed 300+ jug

[300rman]

your going to want to raise your gearing and get a better pipe ... dg is probably the worst pipe avaialble on the market get a free flowing intake setup ,you should run a clampon KN filter and no airbox ,that engine really needs ot breathe ,there is very good topend punch but you gotta unleash it .an exhaust pipe must work in unison wit hthe new porting also id inspect the clutch while its apart.a cheap 25 year old small bore pipe designed for a stock 250 will not perform in sync with a highly modifed 300+ jug

using a clamp on UNI filter with no airbox lid. cant run no airbox around here as it would get packed with mud :(

as for a pipe, where could i get one? been looking on ebay for one, cant find anything but DG and OEM. Dammit