'79-'80 ATC110 no sparky...

[XL-erate]

I've posted about this before, so I guess this is update: I installed a 3rd stator, used, and still no spark.

I installed a new coil, correct for application, and have tried 4 others, one of those also being new.

I have the wiring the same as schematics: Black from stator to points wire, with that wire also tee'd to coil primary terminal. Same black wire is connected directly to condenser green wire, condenser case connected to ground per schematics. Stator yellow lighting wire is disconnected. Coil only has one primary terminal to connect black stator wire, so no error there.

I traced continuity on those black wires: with points open no continuity to ground on points wire. With points closed, continuity to ground on points wire. This shows that the points I carefully cleaned do correctly short out. Shows continuity on same black points wire from stator to coil terminal. No wire is incorrectly shorted to ground. Points adjustment is a close to correct as I can get it.

At least .010 clearance around rotor circumference to inner of stator. Cleaned rotor. Good magnetism. Stator test shows continuity from stator wires to stator frame on all stators I've tried, some showing higher resistance.

Have tried different condensers. Have tried without condenser. Has new sparkplug, new plug connector, new secondary sparkplug wire from coil to plug. Good clean grounds, engine is grounded to chassis, cylinder head shows continuity to ground. System uses no rectifier, regulator or battery. One more time: Black stator output wire is connected directly to points wire, condenser wire and coil primary terminal, with kill switch eliminated from circuit, no kill switch, and yellow disconnected. No spark.

Can't see what the problem could be except that it's another bad stator?

[Havoxx]

I've posted about this before, so I guess this is update: I installed a 3rd stator, used, and still no spark.

I installed a new coil, correct for application, and have tried 4 others, one of those also being new.

I have the wiring the same as schematics: Black from stator to points wire, with that wire also tee'd to coil primary terminal. Same black wire is connected directly to condenser green wire, condenser case connected to ground per schematics. Stator yellow lighting wire is disconnected. Coil only has one primary terminal to connect black stator wire, so no error there.

I traced continuity on those black wires: with points open no continuity to ground on points wire. With points closed, continuity to ground on points wire. This shows that the points I carefully cleaned do correctly short out. Shows continuity on same black points wire from stator to coil terminal. No wire is incorrectly shorted to ground. Points adjustment is a close to correct as I can get it.

At least .010 clearance around rotor circumference to inner of stator. Cleaned rotor. Good magnetism. Stator test shows continuity from stator wires to stator frame on all stators I've tried, some showing higher resistance.

Have tried different condensers. Have tried without condenser. Has new sparkplug, new plug connector, new secondary sparkplug wire from coil to plug. Good clean grounds, engine is grounded to chassis, cylinder head shows continuity to ground. System uses no rectifier, regulator or battery. One more time: Black stator output wire is connected directly to points wire, condenser wire and coil primary terminal, with kill switch eliminated from circuit, no kill switch, and yellow disconnected. No spark.

Can't see what the problem could be except that it's another bad stator?

Out of curiosity, I'm sure you have the kill switch on, but have you checked if maybe it's not busted? It can short and cause the engine to always think it's off, hence, no spark.
Also, you can pick yourself up a cheap electric spark tester, that you don't need to connect to the coil, see if it's even getting spark to the spark plug.

And, make sure you have all the contacts clean, I use wool to clean them, but others have suggested die-electric grease, not sure what that is, and I'm lazy :P, so you can figure that one out ;).

Oh, for the record, my 200sx wouldn't get spark, I cleaned the connectors, got better spark, took the stator, cleaned it, cleaned it's connectors, and now the spark is strong as hell, so it might just have dirty cables, or a broken one somewhere.

[TeamGeek6]

continuity is meaningless. NEVER use dielectric grease in an electrical connector that you dont want destroyed.

Bad wiring. Youve replaced everything else.

Notice what Havoxx wrote about cleaning connectors. They are 99% of the problem, and it doesnt matter what continuity says. The ignition does not run on the tiny little current from an ohmmeter, it uses high voltage pulses.

Eliminate all the connectors. Polish the ones that cant be eliminated with a Q tip. NEVER use sandpaper.

[Havoxx]

continuity is meaningless. NEVER use dielectric grease in an electrical connector that you dont want destroyed.

Bad wiring. Youve replaced everything else.

Notice what Havoxx wrote about cleaning connectors. They are 99% of the problem, and it doesnt matter what continuity says. The ignition does not run on the tiny little current from an ohmmeter, it uses high voltage pulses.

Eliminate all the connectors. Polish the ones that cant be eliminated with a Q tip. NEVER use sandpaper.

Yea, use sand paper on em and you'll get pits and what not :P, I like fine wool, it gets them nice and shiny, especially if they're old :).

[XL-erate]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. Trying ti reply in order: I eliminated kill switch from circuit, as its function is to ground spark wire. I will reconnect once I get spark.

I happen to have a spark tester but it's for a sparkplug WITH the screw on tip, so it's too large to fit in a bike sparkplug cap. Somehow I think before the day is up I'll have it modified it for bikes, real tired of this silliness. Thanks for slapping me upside the head.

I've been through the wiring bunches of times and made all connectors right and replaced several wires. Can't change stator bullet connectors yet, until I get spark, then will use blade type spades.

Sorry, have to disagree regarding continuity testers and dielectric grease. A top of the line Fluke or UEI such as I have is a different critter from a $9.99 Radio Shack item. Either is fully capable of extensive testing in a circuit, if used properly. I understand your good intentions there but a high quality multimeter is fully capable of accurate diagnosis of a circuit. Mine can test from semi-conductor mA & 20 Ohms resistance up to 2,000K ohms, 1,000 Amps and 1,000V-DC.

Dielectric grease, of high quality, should not harm an electrical connection and has never caused me problems in maybe 30 years useage of it. Possibly you got some bargain basket stuff that contains an acid of some sort, or else you might have an electrolysis problem. Quality stuff is an inert substance which prevents corrosion without altering circuit voltage/amperage.

Problem is I'm at the point that nothing in the way of normal stuff fixes the problem. No good way for me to test a stator except install it, and really seems like I've covered everything. Just really frustrated and decided to post I guess. What bugs the heck out of me is the system is so blasted simple, like a chainsaw or lawmower, and it's whipping the daylights out of me!

Thanks....

[Havoxx]

Thanks for the feedback, guys. Trying ti reply in order: I eliminated kill switch from circuit, as its function is to ground spark wire. I will reconnect once I get spark.

I happen to have a spark tester but it's for a sparkplug WITH the screw on tip, so it's too large to fit in a bike sparkplug cap. Somehow I think before the day is up I'll have it modified it for bikes, real tired of this silliness. Thanks for slapping me upside the head.

I've been through the wiring bunches of times and made all connectors right and replaced several wires. Can't change stator bullet connectors yet, until I get spark, then will use blade type spades.

Sorry, have to disagree regarding continuity testers and dielectric grease. A top of the line Fluke or UEI such as I have is a different critter from a $9.99 Radio Shack item. Either is fully capable of extensive testing in a circuit, if used properly. I understand your good intentions there but a high quality multimeter is fully capable of accurate diagnosis of a circuit. Mine can test from semi-conductor mA & 20 Ohms resistance up to 2,000K ohms, 1,000 Amps and 1,000V-DC.

Dielectric grease, of high quality, should not harm an electrical connection and has never caused me problems in maybe 30 years useage of it. Possibly you got some bargain basket stuff that contains an acid of some sort, or else you might have an electrolysis problem. Quality stuff is an inert substance which prevents corrosion without altering circuit voltage/amperage.

Problem is I'm at the point that nothing in the way of normal stuff fixes the problem. No good way for me to test a stator except install it, and really seems like I've covered everything. Just really frustrated and decided to post I guess. What bugs the heck out of me is the system is so blasted simple, like a chainsaw or lawmower, and it's whipping the daylights out of me!

Thanks....
Have you tested if the stator is giving off voltage when you pull the starter? I'm sure 3 can't be bad, but it's always something to check, That model doesn't have a CDI, so it can't be that, but on mine, theres a little magnetic thing on the flywheel, the outside of it, that hits the pulser to send the spark out, again, not sure if your's would have that, but you might check if it's supposed to, maybe the thing fell off :D.

[money89tractors]

by chance have you checked to see if you are getting power out of your mag? this was the problem with my '78 atc90...the mag was fried...

-Phil

[XL-erate]

Thanks, guys! Yes, I checked stator output, looked a little weak. Then I remembered the last stator I tried, same thing. So I pulled it again and sanded off the ends of all the winding cores that face the rotor, same as I did on last one. That is, rotor turns inside stator, so on the inside stator surfaces I polished it all up. It went from a flicker on my meter needle to burying the needle, same as last time, makes a huge difference.

I got rained and snowed out working on it.

The only thing left that is suspect is the wire going from stator black output connector to points. Will be replacing that tomorrow. That's the only piece that hasn't been replaced with brand new, except used stators. It tests fine, but there's nothing else left that could be causing the problem! Thanks!