Blazer
02-10-2008, 01:45 AM
Hi All,
In the last few weeks of working on my new toy, I have found many parts that have had large amounts of rust. Rather than wire brush, sand, or media blast the rust away, try Electrolysis! It removes only the rusty metal, and saves alot of Elbow Grease! I tried this for the first time yesterday and it worked great. Hopefully this will save some of you some time and effort in restoring your Trikes.
My muffler had a large amount of rust. No holes in it (yet), but it just flat out looked bad. This was the part I decided to test the electrolysis on (that and I"m cheap, didn't want to buy a new one, yet)
Items needed:
1. Plastic Bucket or Tub large enough to fit your rusty part into. Do NOT use a Metal Container!
2. Battery charger - mine was 12v 2A or 12v 6a
3. Steel or Iron Electrode (any metal you have about)
4. Enough water to submerse your part into
5. Baking Soda, Washing Soda, or Household Lye (I used arm and hammer Baking Soda) Use approximately 1-2 heaping tablespoons per gallon of water.
Process:
Start by filling up your plastic tub with water until your rusty part is completely submersed. Then add your Baking Soda, and stir until dissolved. While the battery charger is unplugged, attach the negative lead to the part. It is ok if the negative lead is submersed under water.
Insert your steel/iron electrode into the solution. Make sure that your positive electrode does not touch your part. Leave enough of the electrode exposed and out of the solution so you may attach your positive lead. Attaching the battery chargers positive lead to the electrode while submersed will cause it to rapidly deteriorate and gain rust. If you want it to last, make sure its not in the water! While the battery charger is unplugged, you may now attach the positive terminal to your electrode.
TIP 1- When choosing an electrode, keep in mind that electrolysis is "line of sight". The side of the rusty part that faces away from the electrode will not have the rust removed. I chose to bend a steel pipe around my part, so both sides would be cleaned simultaneously. Use your imagination here.
TIP 2 - Please don't place your battery charger right next to the container, set it away from it, and preferably off the floor in case of an accidental spill. Use a surge protector.
TIP 3 - Have a well ventilated area, Hydrogen bubbles are formed during this process.
Now confirm your part and electrode don't touch, and that the electrode is "positive". You may now plug in your battery charger. You will know it is working when you see tiny bubbles starting to rise from the solution. Soon, the water will turn a rusty color! Mine was 12v 2a, I had to rotate my muffler to get complete coverage and each side ran about 4 hours. It came out very clean looking. I poured out the liquid, and then put it in my oven for 45 minutes to cook off any remaining water inside.
Check out my photos, and try this yourself the next time you need some heavy duty rust removal!!!
Looks Terrible!:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustyMuffler1.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustyMuffler2.jpg
My Setup:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/Setup1.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/Setup2.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/Setup3.jpg
Muffler after first 4 hours:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/HalfDone.jpg
Finished Results:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustFree2.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustFree1.jpg
In the last few weeks of working on my new toy, I have found many parts that have had large amounts of rust. Rather than wire brush, sand, or media blast the rust away, try Electrolysis! It removes only the rusty metal, and saves alot of Elbow Grease! I tried this for the first time yesterday and it worked great. Hopefully this will save some of you some time and effort in restoring your Trikes.
My muffler had a large amount of rust. No holes in it (yet), but it just flat out looked bad. This was the part I decided to test the electrolysis on (that and I"m cheap, didn't want to buy a new one, yet)
Items needed:
1. Plastic Bucket or Tub large enough to fit your rusty part into. Do NOT use a Metal Container!
2. Battery charger - mine was 12v 2A or 12v 6a
3. Steel or Iron Electrode (any metal you have about)
4. Enough water to submerse your part into
5. Baking Soda, Washing Soda, or Household Lye (I used arm and hammer Baking Soda) Use approximately 1-2 heaping tablespoons per gallon of water.
Process:
Start by filling up your plastic tub with water until your rusty part is completely submersed. Then add your Baking Soda, and stir until dissolved. While the battery charger is unplugged, attach the negative lead to the part. It is ok if the negative lead is submersed under water.
Insert your steel/iron electrode into the solution. Make sure that your positive electrode does not touch your part. Leave enough of the electrode exposed and out of the solution so you may attach your positive lead. Attaching the battery chargers positive lead to the electrode while submersed will cause it to rapidly deteriorate and gain rust. If you want it to last, make sure its not in the water! While the battery charger is unplugged, you may now attach the positive terminal to your electrode.
TIP 1- When choosing an electrode, keep in mind that electrolysis is "line of sight". The side of the rusty part that faces away from the electrode will not have the rust removed. I chose to bend a steel pipe around my part, so both sides would be cleaned simultaneously. Use your imagination here.
TIP 2 - Please don't place your battery charger right next to the container, set it away from it, and preferably off the floor in case of an accidental spill. Use a surge protector.
TIP 3 - Have a well ventilated area, Hydrogen bubbles are formed during this process.
Now confirm your part and electrode don't touch, and that the electrode is "positive". You may now plug in your battery charger. You will know it is working when you see tiny bubbles starting to rise from the solution. Soon, the water will turn a rusty color! Mine was 12v 2a, I had to rotate my muffler to get complete coverage and each side ran about 4 hours. It came out very clean looking. I poured out the liquid, and then put it in my oven for 45 minutes to cook off any remaining water inside.
Check out my photos, and try this yourself the next time you need some heavy duty rust removal!!!
Looks Terrible!:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustyMuffler1.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustyMuffler2.jpg
My Setup:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/Setup1.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/Setup2.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/Setup3.jpg
Muffler after first 4 hours:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/HalfDone.jpg
Finished Results:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustFree2.jpg
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s10/Bullet0405/RustFree1.jpg