automator
01-11-2008, 08:00 PM
Part One:
I recently bought a YTM200e and realized after a few rides that
there's a shifting problem between 2nd and 3rd gears.
What happens is this:
When the machine is at operating temperature, the shifting problem occurs.
It doesn't occur when it's cool. Shifting from neutral -> 1st is okay, and 1st -> 2nd is okay as well. When shifting from 2nd -> 3rd, it will act as if I've shifted all the way back down to neutral (it has inertia, but loses momentum), and acts like I've mis-shifted. When I let off the throttle, it clunks into 3rd and starts going again.
Part 2: When I was performing routine maintenance I attempted to check clutch free play. I loosened the lock nut and the adjuster screw didn't move at all. So, I squirted some PB Blaster crap in there and called it a night. When I came back the next day, I was able to take up the slack (turned it counterclockwise), then back clockwise a 1/4 turn. I ran the bike again for a little bit and checked it again. Sure enough, I was able to get more slack adjustment out of it. This process repeated MANY times until the screw was damned near out of the case.
Does anybody know of a fix for these problems? I am under assumption that #1 is a shifting fork/drum problem, and that #2 is a spring problem.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Phil
I recently bought a YTM200e and realized after a few rides that
there's a shifting problem between 2nd and 3rd gears.
What happens is this:
When the machine is at operating temperature, the shifting problem occurs.
It doesn't occur when it's cool. Shifting from neutral -> 1st is okay, and 1st -> 2nd is okay as well. When shifting from 2nd -> 3rd, it will act as if I've shifted all the way back down to neutral (it has inertia, but loses momentum), and acts like I've mis-shifted. When I let off the throttle, it clunks into 3rd and starts going again.
Part 2: When I was performing routine maintenance I attempted to check clutch free play. I loosened the lock nut and the adjuster screw didn't move at all. So, I squirted some PB Blaster crap in there and called it a night. When I came back the next day, I was able to take up the slack (turned it counterclockwise), then back clockwise a 1/4 turn. I ran the bike again for a little bit and checked it again. Sure enough, I was able to get more slack adjustment out of it. This process repeated MANY times until the screw was damned near out of the case.
Does anybody know of a fix for these problems? I am under assumption that #1 is a shifting fork/drum problem, and that #2 is a spring problem.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Phil