how many people paint there frames with spray paint?

[DarkestGKnight]

do u use spray paint or get it done professoinally?

[chris200x]

I powdercoated this last frame i was redoing.. but I think if you spray it.. it'll be alot easier to touch up when it gets trashed. Alot cheaper too! Degrease it,, wire brush it,, primer it,, PJ-1 it.

[NINJA]

The first time I redid my 86 200x I used PJ1, I'll never make that mistake again.

[atctim]

Since I am cheap - and have no other local resources - I spray bomb my frames. My Big red frame has held up to alot of abuse over the last 4 years and still looks "OK". You just have to be patient and put alot of coats on there.

Sure you can go out and PC or have it professionally done - but for the back yard mechanic - there is no shame in spray bombing something you plan on riding - looks good too!

[kernalklink]

the trick is preperation hands down!!
also to get several thinner coats instead of a thick messy coat

- as far as powdercoating it's going to come off either way, I spray paint everything!

it can always be re-done!!!!

[scooterroo]

im with the spray guys here. yeah powder coat is a bit more durable, but it too tends to chip and scratch. as long as you prep your frame or whatever part your going to be painting the correct way, and use thin coats instead of globbing on one or two heavy ones, then perhaps hit it with a clear like i do, the results are just as good as powder i think. powder is alot more expensive and personally, the way i treat my bikes when i ride, it would be a waste of money. spray paint you can always touch up...not that i have had to yet. my blasters frame is metallic navy blue, and it has been that way since beginning of summer, havent had to touch up anything yet. but to each their own, everyone has their own ideas and opinions.

[84honda200s]

im guilty of spray bombing the frame. i dont have a spray gun and cant afford to send it out so i bomb it. spray bombing isnt all that bad. as said above the key is to do a great job on cleaning the frame. i use air craft striper and a wire brush to get all the old paint off. then i use some fine sand paper to get anything tat the wire brush may have missed and after that i use prep all to clean the metal. thats about it for prep. then goes on the primer (i usually put on 2 coats of rustolium gray primer depending on the color of the final coat color) and last is the final coat.

[DarkestGKnight]

ok guys kool, im gonna spray paint my frame, just wanted to get *Edited**Edited* thoughts on spray paint. thanks

[SYKO]

negative ghostrida on da spray bomb here....i save that fiz can crap for taggin semi trailers and boxcars! all my stuff gets PC'ed and/or I paint it with my wicked sick skillz, and if it gets scratched or chipped, I'll PC it again or whip out the ol' SATA and let loose the color!

[DarkestGKnight]

lol see i dont have the money to spend on pc? well i heard its alot how much for one of your frames?

[johnny's X]

I paint my frames. get them blasted then eching primer, base coat and then some really good clear. I only use PPG product when painting also. The PPG concepts paint in pricey but it is nice sh*t. Come up with the doe and get it done right. Spray bombs always look spray bombed.

[DarkestGKnight]

tru but even tho im rebuilting the bike im gonna ride it alot to so i dont wanna spend alot of money on paint. but thanks ill check some stuff out.

[chris200x]

PC can vary in price depending on who does it. Usually around $150-250... Mine was kinda spendy ($250) but I had a few busted bolts and old bearing races that had to be taken care of beforehand. I'm happy with the outcome though.

Before:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e137/chrisr200x/trizrestore036.jpg
After:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e137/chrisr200x/newframe002.jpg

[NINJA]

I sandblasted my entire frame down to bare metal, I applied the PJ1 primer as recommended, then I painted with PJ1 red. It was alot of work just to spray paint but I did it anyway because someone recommended the PJ1 and said it would look nice. I highly disagree at this point. It looked spray painted and proceeded to chip off leaving the primer behind the first day I rode it. Don't waste your time, it's the same as money! Powder coating is worth every penny.

[Dammit!]

PC prices depend on where you live. If you live in a big city where there are several PC shops competing for business, the prices can get pretty low. There's a place here in Phoenix that will do trike frames for $110-130 for a single color and that includes all the sandblasting/prep work. I had just about all the parts from my 70 and my 200x done there all at once. It helps to have large batches of parts done at the same time to drive the price down. I can't remember the total now but the small parts like hubs and footpegs were super cheap. Like three dollars each cheap. I think I ended up spending like $300 or so for pretty much everything on both trikes and a couple of misc parts from other machines.

[rally4x4racer]

I have sprayed a frame with automotive base/clear and spray bombed a frame. There is a big difference in quality, but like roo said if your gonna beat it up who cares?

to me, paint is paint - wether its MS, PPG, HOK, CF or OMNI. The skills used to paint are what makes the difference - but thats just my opinion.

base/clear definately looks the best to me. I think it looks better than powder, and not much loss of durability.

[kwbyfrmhell]

I did one of my frames with bedliner spray, the can kind. Looks good and holds up, I was going to have my BASF rep get me some of the color coded kind but gave up when he took forever

[SYKO]

I have sprayed a frame with automotive base/clear and spray bombed a frame. There is a big difference in quality, but like roo said if your gonna beat it up who cares?

to me, paint is paint - wether its MS, PPG, HOK, CF or OMNI. The skills used to paint are what makes the difference - but thats just my opinion.

base/clear definately looks the best to me. I think it looks better than powder, and not much loss of durability.



here is a tip for you clear coaters, you can add alittle bit of epoxy hardener only if its a hardener that isnt used for all kinds of paint I/E MS CH253 can be used in mulitple products, you dont want to use that, I got a generic epoxy primer and epoxy hardener, I put alittle bit of the epoxy hardener in the clear and BAM its sick tough! my flat tracker frame is an attest to that! I rode it a year before I started racing and there are NO chips in it and its tough as nails, it slightly dulls your finish but makes it impenatrable! try it!


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e306/southgacustoms/MVC-887S.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e306/southgacustoms/MVC-886S.jpg

[NINJA]

Thanks for the tip syko, I just might go that route. I got a pretty good deal worked out with my buddy at the body shop to repaint my tank, I just might have him shoot my frame and swingarm.

[kwbyfrmhell]

what kind of clearcoats are you using that doesnt have a hardner as a requiered mixture? shouldnt dull it unless you are using a clearbase mixture

[edog]

Everything is in the prep work.

I have done allot of parts spray painting.With very good results.

[Chevy200s]

Everything is in the prep work.

I have done allot of parts spray painting.With very good results.

same here, a lot of sanding and cleaning, one or 2 coats of primer, then a few nicely laid down coats of paint. have to make sure your patient though, dont want to put a coat on while the last is still tacky. when your short on cash trying to make it through school and you've got 10 machines to work on, a good spray can looks pretty tempting compared to powder coating

[hublake]

I had frame, swing arm, all the racks, foot pegs and anything else that was orginally black on my 85 Honda BR powdercoated and it was around $450.00 and that included sandblasting. There is only one place where I live in NE MI. Otherwise the closest places are in Flint or Saginaw. I am currently redoing a 250sx and I am going to paint it myself. The BR is only for clear days and rode on pavement.

[DarkestGKnight]

hey guys i do like how p/c looks but i also dont wanna spend alot what im gonna do is go to a few places and get prices, if its to much like over $150 Im gonna spray bomb it. thanks for all the help. post more pics of frames! i like how they come out.

[3-WheelHogger]

i sprayed ma 200s frame about 3 weeks ago and it turned out nice ... 3 coats of white and 2 coats of clear .... pics are a bit fuzzy but not bad ...

[DarkestGKnight]

hey that looks really good, well ill price pc and if its to much ill spray it myself.

[SYKO]

what kind of clearcoats are you using that doesnt have a hardner as a requiered mixture? shouldnt dull it unless you are using a clearbase mixture

shouldnt dull?? Ive been painting for 15+ years, production and custom, an epoxy hardener reacts differntly with any urethane and acrylic system of clear, it will dull back simply it dries so hard that it traps the sollvents somewhat similar to solvent pop without the pop, you could in fact use something ike sikkens scratch resistant clear but at well over 400+ just for the clear not including the hardener its not money wise unless you had 100 frames or so to clear and sell. Using an epoxy hardener (not completley in place of the regular hardener, just a capfull in a mixed qrt of clear) will do the job be forewarnd as well epoxy hardener does not work well with 2k clears, only if they are the high solids European clears and spraying out of an hvlp gun is suicidal! conventional guns need apply the only clear that dosnt use a hardener is a type of intercoat clear witch just is a glorified transparent base maker, but it dosnt come out to a gloss shine and has no weather steadfastness

[Rustytinhorn]

If it is a choice between spray painting or doing nothing, I would spray paint.
If its a choice between spray paint and powder coating/automotive paint, I would powder coat or auto. paint it.
If there are any spots that continually get rubbed on the frame, the spray paint will wear off pretty quickly. If you do a good prep job and use a really good primer with several coats of primer before the spary paint, and there is not any continual rubbing, then the spray paint it will hold up for a long time. Plus it will look tons better than than doing nothing,
On my frame when I repainted it, there was no rust on the frame at all, but there where bare spots of metal that I didn't want to rust. I blasted the thing with coat after coat of good primer right ontop of the oem paint job. This made sure it was extra durable in these areas. If you get the coats of paint the right consistancy then you wont have to sand between coats. Then after that I put some spray paint on.
I dont know why I didn't use auto. paint, as I had a gun and compressor sitting about 5 feet from me the whole time. DUh.
Anyway, if you have the money, auto paint or better yet, powder coating would be the way to go. Powder is really durable and the shine holds up for a long time.

[edog]

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h196/edog_02/100_0062-1.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h196/edog_02/100_0050-1.jpg
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h196/edog_02/100_0056-1.jpg

[SYKO]

its all good! there is no harmfull chemical reaction that zI have found out yet, in fact I found this out back in 95 by a painter that I know, he did this on his show truck frames and such, it has never gave me a problem. I can understand just using the scratch and chip resistant clears but they are a bit pricey, I would rather spend that money on more parts of quality clear on my own vehicles, did you air brush that? looks good, ive been doing airbrush work since I was about 12 and I use it in alot of my stuff, to bad though around here no one really wants pay for the work, pissn match huh? ah hell lets go at it!

[200xman]

I have spray bombed every bike I have done. A lot of people at TF were surprised to hear that when they saw my 81 300R. I have found the most durable paints to be the engine paints you get at auto parts. Marine paints work well also. Rustoleum takes way too long to dry and doesnt seem to hold up in high wear areas. Like everybody else has said most of the work is in the prep. I'm spoiled now since I have a big glass beader at work. With 17 bike in the garage powder coating or professiona painting is out of the question. Ease of touch up is a big factor too.

[SYKO]

word! ol engine enamal is da bomb!! tough as nails! i wish I had a glass beader, all I got is a brute of a sandblaster basically I put on goggles a resporator and gloves and have at it!! like being in a 300mph sand storm!

[edog]

I miss restoring things.I mite start restoring my 1977 atc 90 for my kids.And me:naughty:

[200xman]

There is one exception. I sent a 70 tank out for professional paint to top off my quick resto. I wonder where it is?????????????????????;)

[kwbyfrmhell]

I like to add hardner to my reduced base coat that gives it a lil bit of shine but not flat and is tough as nails, I do this when edging parts for factory look and durability, no clear coat

[SYKO]

I like to add hardner to my reduced base coat that gives it a lil bit of shine but not flat and is tough as nails, I do this when edging parts for factory look and durability, no clear coat

you know ive been doing that as well as per my paint companies instructions, have you aver had any probems associated with it? I have a minor one, its in the special effects MS line, tech calls for a small amount of hardener in the bass's but if you do so even with adiquate drying time the paints will not dry out, they still feal tacky and you can apply the clear and it shines like all get out, but say, you put a door mirror on a week after you painted it, it will smuge the paint were it contacts! its agrivating, ive had reps and other paint guys come out and non can figure it out! all the paint jobs are holding up some are 5+ years outside but its just agrivating, no problems out of the other base's though

[ChrisD]

My personal opinion is: powder coating is 10x better than PJ1. Pj is so brittle compared to powder coating. If you want to do it cheaply, then PJ1 it. If you want to keep it and keep it nice, then spend the money. It is night and day to me.

[Dirtcrasher]

When this topic referred to "spray paint", was the poster referring to spray cans available at Walmart or did you mean automotive paint with a hardner and sprayed through a gun??

Spray cans are fine for lots of stuff. Just don't get a power washer too close, stay away from rocks and mud and don't even think about getting near it with brake or carb cleaner...

We've gone over this subject allot - PC seems to be the best choice for a permanent finish, but, forget about touch up... Hopefully the finish is strong enough that you won't need to touch it until it's time for a complete teardown again...

Automotive paint with a hardner is another great way to go. I never heard of the added epoxy until now and it makes me an even bigger fan. But you are left with a very durable finish.

As far as "it's all in the prep work", I do agree that prep work is job #1 but who wants to spend hours upon hours sandblasting, wire wheeling and sanding only to apply a paint on your beloved ATC that your neighbor painted his mailbox with :crazy:

And as far as the "touch up goes", I will not bid or buy anything that I see over spray on. Sometimes over spray sticks to something else BETTER than the friggin part you painted... It simply sux to see an air box or a shock resevoir with over over spray on it. How many motors are on EBAY that claim "low hours, no smoke" and you can see paint over dirt, oil and grease in the photos? I'll never believe the description when I see that.

Once you have that frame back together with the parts all on there, over spray isn't as simple as guys make it seem, the paint goes everywhere you don't want it to. And again, your back to the same old "can be scratched with a fingernail" paintjob.

You guys need to remember to "pay yourselves" You can't put hours and hours into a project and skimp out on another 150$. If you want a good finish and a lasting result pull out your wallet.

If you broke than that's completely understandable. To some people there time is "free" but to me that free hour could have made me 25-50$ an hour on side work so I'm gonna make sure I have a great durable finish. But there is NO comparison betwen PC, AUTO paint or a 3$ spray can......

Most of you will notice that outdoor deck and patio furniture is almost all powder coated now. I stands up to the elements and lasts for years. People got tired of buying outdoor metal furniture onlt to see spots of rust in 6 months....


EDIT..... AND, if spray cans are great and easy to touch up etc etc, why the heck are we all either sending tanks to SYKO or thinking about it instead of buying a rattle can? Because we know it will be done right, done well and will be as close to a factory finisf as we can expect..

[1upfront]

negative ghostrida on da spray bomb here....i save that fiz can crap for taggin semi trailers and boxcars! all my stuff gets PC'ed and/or I paint it with my wicked sick skillz, and if it gets scratched or chipped, I'll PC it again or whip out the ol' SATA and let loose the color!

Yea my 300r is painted with dupont chroma one single stage urethane paint and now I work at a shop that uses only sikkens paint and primer products, that stuff is awsome. :naughty:

[rally4x4racer]

wow - after all that the guy will probably just send his frame to the chrome shop and forget about it....

oh gee, that gives me an idea

[NINJA]

When this topic referred to "spray paint", was the poster referring to spray cans available at Walmart or did you mean automotive paint with a hardner and sprayed through a gun??

Spray cans are fine for lots of stuff. Just don't get a power washer too close, stay away from rocks and mud and don't even think about getting near it with brake or carb cleaner...

We've gone over this subject allot - PC seems to be the best choice for a permanent finish, but, forget about touch up... Hopefully the finish is strong enough that you won't need to touch it until it's time for a complete teardown again...

Automotive paint with a hardner is another great way to go. I never heard of the added epoxy until now and it makes me an even bigger fan. But you are left with a very durable finish.

As far as "it's all in the prep work", I do agree that prep work is job #1 but who wants to spend hours upon hours sandblasting, wire wheeling and sanding only to apply a paint on your beloved ATC that your neighbor painted his mailbox with :crazy:

And as far as the "touch up goes", I will not bid or buy anything that I see over spray on. Sometimes over spray sticks to something else BETTER than the friggin part you painted... It simply sux to see an air box or a shock resevoir with over over spray on it. How many motors are on EBAY that claim "low hours, no smoke" and you can see paint over dirt, oil and grease in the photos? I'll never believe the description when I see that.

Once you have that frame back together with the parts all on there, over spray isn't as simple as guys make it seem, the paint goes everywhere you don't want it to. And again, your back to the same old "can be scratched with a fingernail" paintjob.

You guys need to remember to "pay yourselves" You can't put hours and hours into a project and skimp out on another 150$. If you want a good finish and a lasting result pull out your wallet.

If you broke than that's completely understandable. To some people there time is "free" but to me that free hour could have made me 25-50$ an hour on side work so I'm gonna make sure I have a great durable finish. But there is NO comparison betwen PC, AUTO paint or a 3$ spray can......

Most of you will notice that outdoor deck and patio furniture is almost all powder coated now. I stands up to the elements and lasts for years. People got tired of buying outdoor metal furniture onlt to see spots of rust in 6 months....


EDIT..... AND, if spray cans are great and easy to touch up etc etc, why the heck are we all either sending tanks to SYKO or thinking about it instead of buying a rattle can? Because we know it will be done right, done well and will be as close to a factory finisf as we can expect..
Exactly!:beer

[SYKO]

wow - after all that the guy will probably just send his frame to the chrome shop and forget about it....

oh gee, that gives me an idea


now thats WhAT IM tAlKKIN bouT!!! CHROME BABY CHROME!!! the master of highest bling there is!! hot to trot!

[kwbyfrmhell]

you know ive been doing that as well as per my paint companies instructions, have you aver had any probems associated with it? I have a minor one, its in the special effects MS line, tech calls for a small amount of hardener in the bass's but if you do so even with adiquate drying time the paints will not dry out, they still feal tacky and you can apply the clear and it shines like all get out, but say, you put a door mirror on a week after you painted it, it will smuge the paint were it contacts! its agrivating, ive had reps and other paint guys come out and non can figure it out! all the paint jobs are holding up some are 5+ years outside but its just agrivating, no problems out of the other base's though

either 2 much hardner i.e. basf says no more than 10 percent of the final reduced product, or wron hardner for that particular brand of paint, never ran into that but guess it could be like their clear hardner doesnt jive with their bases, or single stage or etc.