Help, new clutch , still slipping

[FastZ28]

Hi guys,
I just installed a new clutch in my 85 250R and its slipping.
I have installed a new msr clutch lever & perch, new clutch cable, new EBC kevlar clutch, new clutch update kit, new Honda clutch springs and fresh Honda trans fluid. I did everything according to the manual. Is there some sort of break-in procedure?

I did ride it around the yard a little just puttin around and then gunned it a few times and it felt like it slipped. So I stopped and attempted a couple holeshots and it just slipped. So then I parked it in disgust.

I don't know if I should rip it apart and try the clutch springs that came with EBC clutch or what ?

[Jason Hall]

Did you change the outside pressure plate when you updated the clutch? If I remember correctly, I tried putting the updated needle bearing lifter In one of my R's & without changing the pressure plate It would not pinch the disc's together. The surface where the needle bearing of the updated lifter contacts the pressure plate on the 89 pressure plate looked different then my old plate. I Odered the 89 pressure plate & It worked fine. I don't recall ever hearing of anyone else having this problem. Maybe the releae rod Is longer on the older models?

[SYKO]

did you soak the clutch fiber discs before installing the clutch? if you put them in dry and just add fluid it will slip like mad untill they soak some fo the fluid up, if thats the case you will have to over fill your trans to get the discs wet, then drain some of the trans fluid

[FastZ28]

Thanks guys, but I did get the clutch update kit with the lifter rod, end peice, bearing, washer and pressure plate. I also soaked the fibers for an hour before I installed them.

[Dirtcrasher]

If it's a new clutch with an update kit your simply gonna have to find it. Is there a washer missing or in the wrong place? Is something raised or screwed up in the basket or pressure plate? I'll bet it's something easy your just not seeing it.

[ChrisD]

Did you ever figure it out? I had a problem with an aftermarket clutch kit with the 89 upgrade kit. When I put it together, I couldn't ge the clutch to grab. It worked for about 10 minutes then started slipping. Even with the clutch adjusted all of the way out, it didn't work. I ended up taking out the washer that goes between the pressure plate and the needle bearing. That worked for about a day and the clutch started to slip again....I had a completely new clutch, basket, kit, new OEM steel plates and CR500 springs. It should have worked perfectly. It didn't because the fiber plates were thinner than stock. I replaced the clutch with OEM plates and the clutch works perfectly...with the washer included. I would check the width of the plates to see if they are more narrow than OEM.

Also, check your basket. If it has deep grooves in it, it will prevent the clutch from operating properly. You can file the grooves some and it will improve the operation of the clutch.

[burnoutboy]

have you tried adjusting the clutch?

[FastZ28]

I did not get to check it out yet. I will saturday after I do an oil change in my truck.
I bought the EBC EP Race clutch. EP stands for extra plate. It has an additional steel plate and fiber plate. The steel plates are thinner than the ones I pulled out, but like I said it has extra plates to make up the difference.

The clutch seems to work fine until I give it more than half throttle,you know when it hits the powerband, then it slips. Which is what it did with the old clutch.
I bought the trike off a member here, but they never mentioned the clutch slipping. I was thinking maybe its something with the lever the cable hooks to, but I have yet to pull it out. I think someone had it out before cause the spring on that lever is slightly bent and doesn't want to stay hooked.

[Wi200x]

I thought my clutch was slipping but I believe it's just the sound of the engine changes when going to full throttle when hitting the powerband.

[absolute32]

Did you ever figure this out. I have the same problem, the rod seems to be to long. Something wore out and I can't figure it out. I've been through the whole setup a dozen times. New clutch & 89 update.

[seddon]

i have herd that u should also rub them on the ground like concret before soaking them to

[absolute32]

Its not anything like that, the rod won't allow the plate to clamp the basket tight. You can see the plate flex from the springs around the center. I thought of putting a shim with the washer, to push the basket out more thus eliminating the problem, but I don't want to rig it. I want to know what wore out.

[Tri-Z Pilot]

Did you zero in your clutch operation arm on the sidecase? If I remember correctly on my z I had to align the the clutch arm parallel to my sidecase then take the slop out of the clutch lever after I adjusted the basket. It's been awhile so I could be talking out of my ass. Shouldnt you soak your disks overnight? 1 hour doesnt seem long enough/

[Dirtcrasher]

20 minutes is long enough... I've soaked dozens of clutches for about that long. The arm location has nothing to do with it either in terms of slipping unless the freeplay is not there. Not fully disengaging is another thing altogether.

If there is a bit of freeplay at the hand lever, reach down to the arm on the case. The MUST be a hair of play there too. If there is, then it isn't a cable or lever problem. I have seen cables that when the front wheel is turned the freeplay is gone and that will cause it to slip.

I had a 250R with a bad clutch and until I did the whole clutch and an 89 update, I couldn't get it right but it did not slip - it just wouldn't stop creeping when the lever was pulled in no matter how it was adjusted.

Slippage is caused from worn or incorrect springs, glazed or worn friction or steel/aluminum inner plates. OR!! There is something wrong that is not allowing that assembly to mesh together properly. Could be wrong thrust washer or lack of a thrust washer or something else is assembled wrong. I have seen countershafts were there shoulder was so worn that the basket actually got bound up. That cause a disengagement problem....

It's easy if you look at it piece by piece and understand how the clutch relates to the countershaft and it's relating parts.

[FastZ28]

I finally figured it out. The inner hub that has the 5 posts had been repaired by a previous owner. Looks like one of the posts broke off and they welded it back in. Well the weld was too high not allowing the pressure plate to get tight to the clutch plates. I tried to grind the welds down with a dremel but it broke the post off again. I cleaned it out and put it together with just the 4 clutch springs and no more slipping. Just need to get a new inner hub and it also needs new bearings for the clutch basket. Finally got to feel the power of a 250R...:cool:

[Dirtcrasher]

HA !!

I knew it was something stupid. There is a guy on .org that I replied to. He has a 350X doing some whacky clutch stuff but he hasn't found it yet.

Glad you got it figured out :beer