More Help With my 110

[Rennat_2006]

I have had the machine work done and am starting to reassemble now. I have a couple questions though.

See attachment,
Ok so it shows a dowel on the bottom corner on one side and the top on the other side. But when i have looked up the dowels on a fiche it said i needed 3 of one size then 1 of the other. So are all of the studs supposed to have on or just 2 out of 4 of them?

When i took the old piston out i removed the rings for inspection, I have never had a problem with piston rings before but broke the 2nd ring from the top removing it. I went to install it on the new piston tonight and broke it also :mad: Any tips?

I want to have the head gone through. Valves checked, New valve guides etc. I work on cars for a living so it isnt a problem with not having the know how to do it but not having the tools. Can i bring it to a local machine shop like where we bring our heads for car motors and would they be able to go through a head like this and know what to do or will it have to go to the Honda shop?

I think that is all for now question wise, There will be more though im sure.

Thanks in advance

[Rennat_2006]

30 views and nobody?

[tecat-z]

Do the head yourself. All you need is a lawnmower valve spring compressor, or a c clamp with a piece of conduit 3/4 of an inch ling and cut 38 of the side out so you can remove retainers. Buy new valves and seals, springs, and hand lap valves in. Install valves and check for guide tightness before final assembly. Odds are pretty good they are fine. As for the broken ring, bad luck i guess. But the do make an expander that any bike shop woud have.

[Rennat_2006]

C clamp with a piece of 3/4 inch conduit. Cut 38 of the side? Have you made one of these so maybe i could get some pics?

How do you hand lap valves?

[tecat-z]

Sorry i meant to say 3/8 of a inch. This allows you to compress spring around valve stem and then remove keepers through the window with a small telescope magnet. Then it comes apart like any assembly.I measured mine and it is 3/4 long and id is 5/8. And window is close 1/2. It appears that i used regular old house conduit. It works like a champ. I will try and post up pic tomorrow. This trick works for any old atv engine. Only some sizing adjustments may be required. Hope this helps.

[Rennat_2006]

Yeah it does, Pics would be great!

So if i was to buy new valves, springs, and keepers i could do it myself without having to send it to the machine shop? I thought the valves and seats had to be machined to each other? Well if the valve guide seals were good i could get away with it.

[tecat-z]

Stock replacement valves will have the same angle of cut on seat. So you just lap them to get airtight seat. Valve seals basically push on. This is also assuming you have seats that are not beat down as well. You can look at them and tell,along with valve wear pattern.

[rally4x4racer]

most problem I ever see is the seats piting from sitting around with the valves closed

be careful when getting parts for your head. somewhere between 83 and 84 they switched valves and keepers - depending on the history of your machine you may not know what you have. I do not think the newer keepers will work with the older valves.

I think it is just 2 dowels. they recess into the cylinder - so look for your wider holes for location. (don't forget the o-ring like I always do)

[Rennat_2006]

Oring just goes around the dowel correct? When i took it apart it did not have a oring down there. 1 o ring for each down right?

Mine is a 83 according to the vin plate/info plate.

I think im going to go after this myself, Do you happen to have any pictures of that homemade i guess you could say valve spring compressor tecate-z? Also how do you lap in valves?

[rally4x4racer]

you dont really need a compressor for the 110. if you pull your valve covers and rockers you can stick a closed box wrench in the valve adjusting hole and use the roof for leverage. stuff paper towels in the combustion chamber to hold the valves in.

there should be a counterbore where the o-ring sits. yea - it just sits around the dowel. I think there is only one o-ring.

[Rennat_2006]

I will give that a try, Thanks for the tip!

[rally4x4racer]

there are two dowels on the top of the cyl - and two dowels on the bottom. let me know how it is going.. r4r

[Rennat_2006]

I got the valves out using a magnet and a box end wrench like mentioned above.

I ordered Valve guides, The valve seal, Valves, Inner and Outer Springs, The Dowels and some more odds and ends. Total was like $145 bucks worth of stuff off of Service Honda so i just need to get that new piston ring for the ring i broke when i tried to install it on the new piston. It is a ArmorTech piston, Anybody know where i might be able to get a 4th oversized replacement ring?

I still would like to get a different cam for it but im having trouble finding one so i dont know.

[rally4x4racer]

why are you changing your valve stem guides? I tried this a ruined a head - so I have to ask (talent required) - you have to heat and cool the head to knock these out just right... I would suggest you do not change the guides unless you have a very good reason. change the stem seal and you should be fine.

[Rennat_2006]

Sorry for taking so long to reply, I never got a reply notification.

This thing smoked like a two stroke before i tore it down, I figure if im going to do it i might as well take any of the possibilities out of it also. Im going to take it to a machine shop for them to do.

I got all of my parts in today to get it put back together after the head is finished. I think i will just take the head and all of the new parts to go in it down to the machine shop and have them put it together because from what i have heard the valve seats have to be ground after heating/cooling the head to replace the guides.

I tried to put that second from the top ring on the piston again and cant get it past the first ring land in the piston, I tried to get it back out and off but didnt want to push my luck and break it again. Anybody got any tips? It is a aftermarket piston and the rings are not marked with which one goes where and i was told by the ebay seller how it is supposed to be but as you can see im really fighting with itl. Anybody got any idea's? If i break it again i have got to buy another $16 ring kit which i dont want to do just for that 1 ring.

[rally4x4racer]

i have never broke a ring ... i am really wondering about your rings. where did you get them and what brand are they?

you got the valve guides out and in? good job! maybe mine were froze.....

[Rennat_2006]

It was from G&H Discount ATV supply i believe, They are Armor Tech to go with the Armor Tech Piston. Im wondering if they told me the wrong ring goes from the second to the top? I compared the two rings and the one they told me goes in the 2nd groove from the top is the one that has the smaller ring end gap, Shouldnt the smaller one go in the top?

No im not doing the valve guides myself, Im taking it to a machine shop here locally saturday.

[Rennat_2006]

I got the piston/piston rings figured out, I put the rings on the same way the stocker was so we will see what happens.

I brought the head to the machine shop today so hopefully it doesnt take them too long.

[Rennat_2006]

I got the piston and cylinder back together and installed, But I have came to the next question concerning the "O Ring" that goes on one of the Dowels between the Cylinder and Head.

In the gasket kit i have i have 2 O Rings and 1 rubber O Ring you could call it but it is like the height of 4 O Rings stacked up on top of each other. Im guessing since there is only 1 of these that goes there but then that leaves me with the two O Rings that are so far unaccounted for.

[McDerry]

When I rebuilt mine, I couldn't find any reference in the manual or on the old equipment to suggest where those two rings went.

[Rennat_2006]

Ok so it uses the oring deal that is taller than a conventional o ring.

[rally4x4racer]

yep - the tall flat o-ring for the oiler stud

[Rennat_2006]

I got the head back today, $35 for the valve guides installed and for them to grind the valves to the head. I got back a washer that i didnt notice/remove when i brought it into them, I asked him what it was for and he said that it went under the spring to keep it from eating away at the aluminum. Well ive only got 1 shouldnt i have 2 in that case?

Is there even a washer that goes under the spring? I can get a picture of it tommorow if that helps.

[rally4x4racer]

the washer that goes over the valve guide and under the spring? #11? http://www.southernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

[Rennat_2006]

Yeah number 11. Looks like im missing one of them, Great i need to get this thing put back together because i siezed up my 91 ktm 540 2 weeks ago and it needs to be taken apart and fixed.... Well and ported, polished, and whatever else i can do to make it even more of a fire breather :naughty:

I would still like to pick up a performance cam for the 110 though, Do you guys have any links for people who sell them?

[rally4x4racer]

http://dratv.com/ctatstclslpe.html
I think this is the same - you might ask him
or check ebay

[Rennat_2006]

Only for the 90's im told by him, I emailed him a while back. Why is it that there is no 110 cams? It isnt a problem finding them for the others though.

[Rennat_2006]

I put the exhaust valve, springs, keepers, etc in so it is ready to go but i still need another washer to go between the head and the spring and 1 of the spring keeper deals. I ordered washer from service honda earlier but forgot about the spring keeper so hopefully they can add it to my order because im not going to pay $9 for shipping for a spring keeper that actaully costs $1 to ship.

I did a little bit of porting/polishing on the intake and head, Pretty much just matched everything up and polished the inside of the head, bottom of the valves, and the exhaust port real good. Shouldnt have the carbon stuck in there that i did when i took it apart from now on!

I still want to find a cam for this thing, I really dont want to put it back together with the stocker.

[Rennat_2006]

The little washers are no longer available(number 11 in diagram), Well that isnt good seeing that i need 1!

[Rennat_2006]

rally,
You dont have any of those washers do you?

[Rennat_2006]

Alright well 3 weeks later it is finally running!

Ended up finding a thin copper washer in one of the washer jars that worked fine for between the spring and the head due to them be N/A. Finally bit the bullet and bought the Web Cams camshaft 55-051. I have been working nights for the last couple weeks so that has left me no time to work on it besides the weekends.

So it is finally running but i have some more questions...
-The thin metal V shaped thing that goes on the inside of the carb slide, I believe it is called the needle holder? Anyways i took all of that apart awhile back and cant remember how it is supposed to go back in there now. Currently i have the open part of the V on the bottom (closest to the needle).
-Before the rebuild i couldnt get the thing to idle and still cant. It seems like the rpms hang right above idle for awhile and sometimes do drop down and it dies.
-I put new rear brake shoes in it a couple months back when put new carrier bearings in it, For some reason they are dragging now even with the brake rod to the pedal totally removed. Any idea's before i tear into it?

[rally4x4racer]

how bad are they dragging? rusty drum? if it is a light drag i would let it drag..

i dont think the needle holder matters. I just stick mine in there - try to get one of the hooks to hook the cable if possible

sounds like you need to dial that carb in some more.. my 110 was a PITA like this. I didnt know you were missing that washer - i could have sent you one!

[Rennat_2006]

Well when i had the rod hooked up between the brake handle for your right foot and the cam on the brakes the rear wheels wouldnt move! I need to just tear it back apart and see if i screwed up somewhere?

I tried to just stick it in there but the needle would tilt instead of dropping back in the jet which would cause the throttle to stick :eek: Hooks? I will try to find/get a picture of it.

Thats what i thought also so i tore it apart and throughly cleaned it and it went from no difference when playing with the idle screw to some now but the rpms hang right above idle for some reason. Like something is sticking in the carb? I set the pilot jet at 1 1/8 turns out like the manual recomended.

That would have been good to know about a week ago :twisted: No actually that is alright! :lol: Thank you for the offer though!

[Rennat_2006]

Also...Is that new cam going to affect the idle, Will i need to run the idle a little higher because of it?