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ProCarbine2k1
07-11-2007, 04:40 PM
Worked on the resto a little bit more today, only to end in frustration and a couple broken parts.
I was installing a new gasket on the stator side (kit I bought off of ebay), and the bottom section of gasket was cut a little different than the case, so there is about a 1/16" gap in one small section. I lined the gap with RTV high temp silicone and hope it will do the trick.
The real problem started when I went to install my new clutch plate set. Took the case off, ended up with a small puddle of oil on the floor which I planned on happening, but in the midst of this small puddle of oil was a broke off peice of metal (cant indentify the piece, not part of the case though). Ill try to post up pics in a bit but Im on my way to class. I dont know if it has been broke for a while, broken and replaced by a mechanic who left a bit of the remains, or if somehow, its something that I had done by taking the case off. I also noticed there was a LOT of small metal chips on the crank cover (I think its called) which I did my best to clean off. There was also an unconnected spring that was supposed to connect the shifter mechanism to another part of the mechanism under the clutch assembly, which I reconnected. What I really do not understand, is that this thing ran fine, shifted fine, and everything else with the shift spring detached, and possibly this large chunk of medal floating around in the bottom end.
I also cant get the locknut off the end of the crank assembly (supposed to be left hand threads) and REALLY dont want to gernade something in the bottom end of this motor. Clymer recommends putting a penny between the drive gears to keep the motor from rotating, but they show in the diagram the penny being on top of the gears, meaning that the locknut is NOT left hand threaded.
Sorry for the long post guys, if there is some way you can offer help, please do so. If I repeated myself, well its been a long day in the garage, and I would like to be riding this thing before long..... Also if any of you have a clymer for an 86 200x, maybe you can point something out that I am missing.... thanks in advance fellas...

- Jeff S.

ProCarbine2k1
07-11-2007, 09:43 PM
Someone, please make me sleep better tonight...

ProCarbine2k1
07-11-2007, 10:45 PM
Thanks for the tip John, I really put some pressure on that locknut today.. I guess I'm just scared of cranking too hard and messing something up. I probably put around a hundred pounds of torque on it and it didnt budge. I really dont like other people wrenching on my trike, but if I cant get this one squared away Im going to put the case back on it and have a shop put the new plate set in. Ah heck, I may just have to sleep on this one.

hondahaulic
07-12-2007, 12:07 AM
were they tightening or removing the nut in the picture? that might explain the nut being on the opposite side of the gears. im not 100% but i do think that the nut is reverse threaded. if your not sure and you have an air impact, put it on a low setting and gently try both ways.

atctim
07-12-2007, 10:30 AM
I am 99.999% sure it is reverse thread - and the best way to break it loose is an air impact (or electric impact - whatever you may have) and John's idea of using copper tubing is right on!

ProCarbine2k1
07-12-2007, 12:40 PM
Thanks for the input fellas- got the locknut off about 10 minutes ago guys, it was reverse threaded as I thought but I tried a different approach this morning. I used a breaker bar and rattled it back and forth a bit before it broke loose.
Now for the real dilemma... The locknut on the clutch housing is regular threaded, which is fine, but I cannot begin to turn that one - as the clutch assembly turns with it. Clymer again says to use a washer or penny, but that is no use has I cannot get the gears to turn by rotating the locknut, the plates inside of it free wheel and there is nothing to keep the locknut and hub from spinning. Hope that makes sense... Its one thing after another on this thing, so I think I might spend the rest of the afternoon paintin'... Thanks in advance guys...

350Xhilaration
07-12-2007, 01:13 PM
If you have no air tools on hand instead of using any copper or metal in between gears, put the trans in 5th or 6th gear, reattach the rear brake pedal (temporarily) and hold the rear brake while using the breaker bar to loosen or tighten the nut.

That way there is no chance of any gears getting nicked or copper getting chewed up and into the engine.

Worked great for me when I did my clutch a couple years ago on my 350X with no air tools. I was able to loosen the nut and re-torque it properly.

Good luck and be patient.

Dirtcrasher
07-12-2007, 06:43 PM
There are so many things that are just allot harder without an air impact.

They make life much easier and save other things from getting ruined during the removal process.

Do you have an air compressor? They sell real cheap guns that I recommend torquing when your reassembling, but they will zip parts apart easy.

I torque every single nut in every motor I touch. Lots of other parts I don't but I always torque the internals. It stopped things from loosening and stripping when I finally bought a good set of 3/8 and 1/2 inch click type torque wrenches. about 60$ each at Sears on sale and well worth it. They also have a nice impact for about 100$. I've used these tools for over 10 years....

ProCarbine2k1
07-12-2007, 07:24 PM
I have a nice impact that I got for Christmas. I would rather not use it on any engine or clutch component, but it would have helped taking the oil filter rotor cover off (or whatever its called). John, I think Im going to try that tonight. I thought about doing that earlier, but wanted to make sure I wasnt skipping over something or messing something up. I know if I tweak anything on this motor its going to be heck trying to replace it...Thanks again fellas, keep the help coming...

Dirtcrasher
07-12-2007, 08:08 PM
I have a nice impact that I got for Christmas. I would rather not use it on any engine or clutch component, but it would have helped taking the oil filter rotor cover off (or whatever its called). John, I think Im going to try that tonight. I thought about doing that earlier, but wanted to make sure I wasnt skipping over something or messing something up. I know if I tweak anything on this motor its going to be heck trying to replace it...Thanks again fellas, keep the help coming...


I'll put it another way...

Impact guns remove parts that people don't have the correct holders for. Just about no one has the right tool for holding the basket and countless other items that are real difficult to remove by hand alone. Lots of people try and "shock" the fastner loose with a quick blow of a hammer and thats not a real delicate way of removing parts.

Impact guns are also used for parts that are super tight or have loctite on them.

Again, I torque everything. BUT, lots of my baskets get put back on with an impact gun, a quick zip and a dab of loctite.

I'm not sure what the bozo used to hold and tighten the internals of my 86 200X, but when the clutch felt funny I yanked the cover off. Both the primary gear nut and basket nut were hand tight and allowing some parts to bind the clutch seperation. Never loosened up again after I gave it the Dirtcrasher treatment :lol: