Tips to fire up a fresh Z?

[GoodKarma]

Okay, trying to fire the Z up for the first time, and I have a few questions/concerns.

The fuel pump pulled the fuel up to the pump from the reserve hose fairly quick, but I had the petcock in the on position for a long time before realizing it. The fuel trickled towards the carb after turning to the reserve position, but doesn't really seem to be gushing anywhere's enough. I pulled the plug after the first few dozen kicks, just to save my energy. I later found a small leak that appears to be coming from the bowl on the fuel pump. Would this be enough to keep fuel from running to the carb?

Does the spark plug installed help build vacuum in the carb? It seems it might take forever to get the float bowl filled at this rate!

I filled the radiator, and it took about 3/4 of the gallon jug, and hasn't really moved much after kicking it over a few more dozen times. Does everything fill up just by pouring the fluid in? I wouldn't think so, but this is my first waterpumped bike, so it's all a guessing game for me! I later found that the head gasket is leaking a little. That's a good sign that water is flowing! I didn't put any silicone on before assembly, only because I didn't find anything in the manual. I wanted to, but also didn't know what it would hurt if some got into the water jackets. I'm running a YZ gasket that came with a kit I bought for the '83 YZ head and cylinder. This is a fiber gasket with a metal ring in the center. I have a Tri-Z gasket that is 3 metal disks, but couldn't find anything that noted top or bottom on it.

I'm not even trying to actually fire it yet, at least until I get the fuel filled on the carb side of the pump. I have the bottom fuel hose from the tank going to the bottom fitting on the pump. Any tips/tricks/suggestion/comments worthy of a new Z rebuilder? Tomorrow could be the big day, if I get these issues resolved. Uggggh, I hate the idea of pulling the head, because I imagine I will have to drain the radiators first, just because the hoses are so cramped in there!:(

[Bryan Raffa]

Okay, trying to fire the Z up for the first time, and I have a few questions/concerns.

The fuel pump pulled the fuel up to the pump from the reserve hose fairly quick, but I had the petcock in the on position for a long time before realizing it. The fuel trickled towards the carb after turning to the reserve position, but doesn't really seem to be gushing anywhere's enough. I pulled the plug after the first few dozen kicks, just to save my energy. I later found a small leak that appears to be coming from the bowl on the fuel pump. Would this be enough to keep fuel from running to the carb?

Does the spark plug installed help build vacuum in the carb? It seems it might take forever to get the float bowl filled at this rate!

I filled the radiator, and it took about 3/4 of the gallon jug, and hasn't really moved much after kicking it over a few more dozen times. Does everything fill up just by pouring the fluid in? I wouldn't think so, but this is my first waterpumped bike, so it's all a guessing game for me! I later found that the head gasket is leaking a little. That's a good sign that water is flowing! I didn't put any silicone on before assembly, only because I didn't find anything in the manual. I wanted to, but also didn't know what it would hurt if some got into the water jackets. I'm running a YZ gasket that came with a kit I bought for the '83 YZ head and cylinder. This is a fiber gasket with a metal ring in the center. I have a Tri-Z gasket that is 3 metal disks, but couldn't find anything that noted top or bottom on it.

I'm not even trying to actually fire it yet, at least until I get the fuel filled on the carb side of the pump. I have the bottom fuel hose from the tank going to the bottom fitting on the pump. Any tips/tricks/suggestion/comments worthy of a new Z rebuilder? Tomorrow could be the big day, if I get these issues resolved. Uggggh, I hate the idea of pulling the head, because I imagine I will have to drain the radiators first, just because the hoses are so cramped in there!:(


take a O ring for a garden hose and use that inplace of the stock o ring

do you have the stock Y fitting on it?

yes the spark plug in helps in delevering fuel

try torqueing to 20pnds and see if it stops leaking before you pull it.

fill the rads with as mutch as you can and have the cap off when it actually starts and the air bubbles will come out and fill it to the top after it drops
and have your over flow half full..

[GoodKarma]

You're quick!

I had an O-ring that I put in and seems to fit good, but it's a simple thing to take apart and look at one more time.

Good suggestion on the head, and sure saves having to pull everything apart. Is silicone used also, or not?

I am not using the Y connection on the fuel pump. Just line from the cylinder to the pump, and from the pump to the carb. I thought I read somewhere that this was okay, but maybe I missed the meaning of it.

[Bryan Raffa]

no silicone on the head.. if you have to use the metal Z gaskit...Look at it where the inside of the bore would be.. you will see a lip on one of the sides..its actually bigger hole than the bore,,, that side goes down!

I have never ran it direct to the carb..so im not quite shure on that..seemes to me if the pump was workin that it would pump to the carb..but also you got to rember that pump is constantly pumping and theres no return when the bowl is full.. so im not shure how that would work out for ya..what did you do with the return line to the tank plug it?

that garden hose o ring you can crank right down unlike the little black o ring, if you tighten thoes too tight they will leak

[GoodKarma]

The return line: the bike had the Y connector, but the return line was cut, and there was a wasp egg/nest in the tank fitting (didn't find that out until last week, got to rinse and drain the tank after I accidently pushed it into the tank!:beer ) You have to remember that this bike was dead and sitting in someones back yard for 10 years before I got it!

That's the larger fitting on the top of the tank, correct? I figured it was just a vapor release, and didn't do much for the intake system. Maybe I should look at this closer and see if I can hook it all back up................................dammit! I do have the original Y connector, so that keeps me from being held up over the weekend.

The O-ring was a normal ring, so you might be right that it got smashed. I'll run to the hardware store in the morning! I might be able to fire this thing up and piss off the neighbors tomorrow! I wonder if I have to wear a helmet while driving/wheelies down residential streets in California?:beer

[Bryan Raffa]

yes the large fitting on the top.. if you look at that fitting you will see that there is a small hole in it to let the right amount back to the tank.. makes me wonder why the hell they needed such a large hose?

[chris200x]

Mike, do you have that plastic T connector? I was told not to use one from the hardware store because of the top hole being smaller like raffaman mentioned. You can see what I mean in the pics. I have a an extra I can send along with the oil cap if ya need it.

The last pic is where thehose at top of the t connects to on the tank.

[GoodKarma]

Okay, I have the T connector, and will double check that it's not a generic hardware store part, but it's what came with the bike. I don't have that other petcock (who the hell came up with that word???), but don't think it will matter............unless someone corrects me!

And the fact that this Y is to let fuel go BACK to the tank makes no dang sense! It's way up there on the top of the tank! If this pump makes that much pressure, then I am missing something!!!

[chris200x]

From what I've read on here and .org you dont really need that front petcock. but now would be a good time for someone to clarify that 100%. I had mine already so decided to just hook it up.

I don't see why you couldn't just run the line from the one end of the T staight to the carb... then have the return line up top. :wondering Now I'm getting confused! :lol:

[ATC-Eric]

The T connector is purely for the return of fuel. If your reving up, and you let off the gas, the pump is still going to be pumping. The T connector releases the EXTRA preasure that your pump is pushing back into the tank so that no seals, or gaskets are damaged from the preasure (to my knowledge).

For the record, when I rebuilt my Z, I had to kick it a good 30 times to fire. As a matter of fact, when it finnally fired, I was so suprised I fell off the bike!!! I had been kicking it so long it startled me. It fired with AVENGENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :twisted:


Good luck! :beer

[chris200x]

I'm glad goodkarma started this thread... saved me the trouble! LOL I too will be firing my newly rebuild tri z up this weekend. So what's the trick.. choke on/off,,, give it full throttle,, no throttle??? Just trying to save my leg here ya know?

[ATC-Eric]

Since the kick starter hits the foot peg without much effort, I put a thick towel on my right peg. This cuisens the blow a little bit, and doesent shock it as much with each stroke. Mine is already a bit bent, and its really hard to stop short when your kicking away; especially when your kicking it 20+ times.

I would suggest the choke, it will put more fuel there when it finally comes. Dont give it throttle, you will just risk flooding it. When it finally does start to get some gas, and kinda fires, you know the tecnique in feathering the throttle Im sure.


Just be patient, and dont give up! Those pumps are a pain in the rear!!!!!

[madmanwithmouse]

A trick ive seen corey do before is to get it in 4th or so and just rock back and forth for a min or so.

[Mosh]

You do not need the front petcock.They fall apart any way.Ditch it.By turning the primary petcock sideways when you store it,You will stop the fuel flow.
Instead of kicking on that thing for hours like Eric says,(and it sucks,been there and done that)I just prime the cylinder by dumping some of the premix gas down the plug hole.You will have to do that a few times,but I rather do that then kicking it forever.
The return line is needed to get rid of extra fuel pressure like Eric said.The pump is capable of more than the bike needs.
As for bashing the footpeg with the kicker,I take a peice of 3/8 fuel line and zip tie it to the front rail of the footpeg were the kicker hits it.It protects the peg from getting mashed.You have to replace it periodically but it saves the footpeg and does not really hinder traction for the peg.

[TimSr]

The tee connector is a must, and without it you would be pressurizing the fuel line and force fuel right on past the float needle. If the factory tee were not restricted the fuel would take the easiest path and run back into the tank instead of the carb first.

The on/off petcock can eliminated, and as Moshman said, turn the on/reserve one to the middle position to cut fuel flow off.

I use the same method as Moshman to eliminate foot peg bashing, split a small piece of hose, and zip tie it. I got the idea from Derrick.

You should be able to fill your float bowl enough to start it in a few kicks. It takes me a dozen kicks at best. The easiest way to force prime is to simply blow into the gas tank vent hose. If you have any doubts as to whether its delivering fuel, pop the line off the carb and watch it run out. Always use the choke when the motor is cold, even though you can flip it right off after it starts in warmer weather. Mine likes a little throttle when cold, but a lot of throttle when half warmed, and it doesnt care when its warmed up.

[Bryan Raffa]

on a old ice racer I saw some heater hose right on the kick start itself to keep there foot from slipping on it.. that would work good for the Z,, thicker than gas line..

[GoodKarma]

Hmmmm, replaced the O-ring on the petcock bowl, and hooked up the T connections. The fuel purges right up there to the pump, but doesn't seem to go anywhere. That means that things are pulling the fuel, but it stays right at the pump.

I bought both a flat and O-ring type water hose "thingy". The round 0-ring type fit up in there easier, so went with that. The fuel leaked out once when I first started kicking it again, and hasn't seemed to leak any since. Is there an 0-ring within the petcock itself that might be passing air? I don't know if I can get mine apart, as one of the screws is pretty messed up on the head.

Wow, this kind of sucks! I'm just kicking it over by hand without the spark plug, just to try and get things moving in the right direction without too much luck.

Wait, what if things are actually pushing the fuel back into the tank? Is that possible? Maybe that explains why things aren't going past the pump? Okay, the fumes must be getting to me!:crazy:

[Bryan Raffa]

sound like something in the pump clogged or not together right? try blowing through it with it on and see if its pluged

[GoodKarma]

I can blow on it, and get fuel to go to the petcock, but not come out the carb side. Should I be able to blow it all the way through the circuit to the carb?

Going to run across the street to the auto store, and see if I can get a better fitting 0-ring. Both the water hose rings aren't fitting in there good, and get pushed down into the bowl once I get it tightened.

Whew, this is more fun than a barrel of monkeys! But, I'm not ready to give up just yet. I did tear the pump apart, and didn't see anything wrong..................like I know what I'm looking for! The pump is moving the fuel back and forth, but not actually coming up any further......................damn wierd.:crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

[GoodKarma]

Okaaaaay, I surrender for the day! I tore the pump apart, and I can blow fuel into the pump, so it's not clogged at that point. I'll try to find the photos that Chris put up when he tore his apart. I don't see any sign that fuel has made it to anything other than the bowl. I would have sworn that I saw a little fuel coming out yesterday to the carb, but no signs of that inside the pump. I'm pretty sure I have the plungers going the right way, and looking at it again, it looks like you would have a hard time putting them in wrong.

Getting great pressure coming from the cylinder to the pump, but I was suprised to find that it feels like it is blowing into the pump, and I thought it would be a sucking action.

Is the pump pretty sensitive to any dirt in the fuel? Maybe something got in and clogged one of the little plunger things? I have to stop, this is driving me a bit over the edge. Time to drink beer and fire up the BBQ!:beer :beer :beer

[TimSr]

The fuel pump is really simple. Its simply a diapham that flexes back and forth with vacuum when the piston goes up and pressure when the piston goes down. The pump has two one way valves. I cant remember if its possible to put the one way valves on the wrong sides, but I dont think you can. The other question is whether you have the vacuum hose connected properly to the bottom end and without obstruction. Ive gotten cylinders with the little elbow fitting on the botton clogged before.

[chris200x]

Goodkarma, I'll save you the trouble of searching for those pics.

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=65697&highlight=Tri+fuel+pump

I didn't have a chance to get at mine today so I'll be at it first thing in the morning. I just hope I rebuilt that pump correctly! :rolleyes: :wondering

[GoodKarma]

Thanks Chris! I really can't see anything out of the ordinary that would be an issue. I put the thin and thicker gaskets together like you explained in your post. I also "thought" that I put the rubber pump "thingys" in there like my old one was, but that's the first thing I will look at tomorrow.

It's sort of odd, because now (before I tore the pump apart) the fuel just moves back and forth in the hoses. I would have sworn that it was pulling up yesterday, but stopping at the bowl. I know yesterday it took little effort to get the fuel up to the bowl, but then I was having leak issues.

I'm not going to get too uptight about it YET, and will look it over tommorrow to see if something pops out and looks obvious. Really though, looking today at the pump, I can't make heads or tails out of how the whole thing works. I don't see how it gets from one side (suction from bowl) to the other (to the carb). There's the divider in there, and not sure how it flows from one side to the other.

Okay, I'm worn out thinking about this today. Maybe a good night's sleep will help it all come together tomorrow. And I still have Monday off too, so there's still hope! Just hope that I don't have to order anything else. This thing is "nickle and dimin'" me to death!

[Bryan Raffa]

try this fill the float bowl with gas and then hook up all the lines.. it will fire right up and you will for shure see if the pump is working when it starts

[GoodKarma]

You think that will work? I'm afraid that the pump isn't pulling the fuel through, but I don't know shyte about these Yamahas. I'll take your word for it, and looking forward to learning yet another lesson!

I already pulled the line off the carb, so it's easy to fill back up (busted up my hand real good doing it).

Wish me luck!!!:beer :beer :w00t: :beer :beer

[chris200x]

Goodkarma.. it seems I'm having the same trouble you are. I just filled my tank (about halfway) and gave it a good 20 kicks/ I got gas to the pump (which was leaking for a few minutes) but no further...

Do you think we rebuilt these pumps wrong?

[GoodKarma]

LOL, funny, I just sent you an email!

I wonder if Bryan is on to something? Maybe the pump only does so much until the motor is running. That makes sense, because if we were able to just kick it over and see fuel flowing, then it would be a GUSHER when the motor was running. So, maybe it just needs to be fired up like Bryan suggested. I'm going to go with that notion today, and figure the only thing I have to lose is a few things to tear back apart if it doesn't work!:beer

Wish me luck!

[chris200x]

Haha.. I just read it and told you to have a look here. I was thinking of having my son tow me with the sx to try and catch it in gear... easier on the foot I would think???

[GoodKarma]

Must be nice! I don't have anywhere to do that, unless I pack my shyte up and head somewhere out of town.

I am at a point that it would be easy to refill the float bowl before I put things back together. When I did this yesterday, the fuel was pulling from the carb float bowl into the intake, so I think I can easily get it to fire up. Now I just have to cross my fingers, pull out my lucky rabbits foot, do a native indian good luck dance, and hope that things work out. I'm tired of having bad days!!!

[chris200x]

eeeh..I got another leak coming form either that bowl or from behind the switch??? not sure what to do now!

Edit: I discovered it was leaking from the back of the on/off switch. I took those two little screws out and seen I must have had that wierd shaped washer in wrong. I had it inside it has to go between the backing plate and the switch.

I also discovered by blowing on the vent hose... Gas flowed right past the pump into the carb. No need to try and catch it in gear. :w00t: all is well in tri z land. :lol:

[GoodKarma]

Oh, my life sucks! I can't get fuel to blow past the pump...............................back to the drawing board.

[icp4life162005]

Have either of you two ever heard of ether/starting fluid? Geesh! :lol:

[GoodKarma]

Have either of you two ever heard of ether/starting fluid? Geesh! :lol:

This has worked with no problems on your Tri-Z? I really wasn't concerned much with getting it to fire as much as making sure the fuel pump worked.

[icp4life162005]

Thats what I do on my trike when I run out of gas and fill back up, its much easier then pulling for an hour and it gets the gas flowing.

EDIT: I said that to try to help you get the gas flowing because in one of the previous posts a guy said the use engine pressure to operate. Hence the starting help. Worth a try, and good luck!:beer

[GoodKarma]

Thats what I do on my trike when I run out of gas and fill back up, its much easier then pulling for an hour and it gets the gas flowing.

Does your pump seem to pull the fuel right to the carb when kicking it? Mine doesn't, and somehow I have to figure out why. Do you have any suggestions that worked with yours? I can't see anything that isn't right with the installation, and it has me wondering if there might be something clogged up in the diaphrams. Does your have the filter in the bowl?

[chris200x]

Hey mike!!!! YAMAHONDAMAN :w00t: :Bounce :D

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e137/chrisr200x/th_COMPLETEDTRIZ024.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e137/chrisr200x/?action=view&current=COMPLETEDTRIZ024.flv)

[TimSr]

Oh, my life sucks! I can't fuel to blow past the pump...............................back to the drawing board.

Did you open the fuel line first? If its open and you cant blow gas through it, there is a problem with one of your vavles, or both.

The pump does not need primed. It should pump fine with each kick of the kickstarter.

The diaphram is in the back of the pump. when vacuum draws it back, it pulls gas through the valve on the left into the back of the pump. When the diaphram moves forward its pushed out through the right side of the pump to the fuel line to the carb. If the one way valve on the left side is not working, it will simply push right back towards the tank, and just pumping the gas back and forth.

The valves are not complicated. They are a dime sized plastic disk held in place by a rubber plug. It should be obvious which direction they will open, and which direction they will not. The left side should have the dime sized plastic disk in the back. The right side should have it in the front.

[GoodKarma]

Thanks to everyone's suggestions from experience!

Tim and Chris came across some important things that "might" be an issue with mine. I think my on/off/reserve lever might be assembled upside down, thus not allowing fuel to flow out of the bowl. I'll look it over close and compare to some pics that Chris sent me. If that isn't the problem, then I'll have to use Tim's explanation of the pump and how the rubber plugs work.

I'm hoping it is simple like the petcock assembly, and I really think that's the issue after looking at Chris's photos he sent me.

[TimSr]

Im going from memory, which doesnt work well these days, but i think the lower gas line on the tank hooks to the upper input on the fuel switch. If they are backwards your fuel switch will just be reversed and on will be reserve, and reserve wil be on. If you think this might be wrong, and you might have them switched, just fill the gas tank above the reserve level and it wont matter which position the switch is in.

[GoodKarma]

I "think" that my petcock assembly might be backwards, and not allowing fuel past the bowl. Not sure yet, and will look tomorrow to confirm, but I remember yesterday that Reserve was stamped on the top side when it was assembled. Chris says that his says On is stamped on the top side of the petcock. I have company to deal with right now, but tomorrow I will get back at it!

[chris200x]

Mike... I hope I'm not giving you wrong info (this stuff is all new to me) Right now I have those rear gaslines hooked up top hole to top hole and bottom to bottom. I did have them hooked up like Tim said but changed them cause I wasn't sure they were right. :rolleyes: The more I think about it the more confused I get. :lol:

This is the current way I have it. I'm thinking the lowest hole in the tank (on the bottom) would be reserve. I have that hooked to the bottom hole on the left side of the pump.

I'm not having any issues with getting fuel past the pump and into the carb with the way the switches are positioned right now. But then again I have 2 gallons of gas in the tank. I hope someone could correct me if I'm wrong. :rolleyes:

What confuses me even more is I'm not sure what side of the petccock switch is the actual indicator???? :confused:

[GoodKarma]

I'm going to have to install a breathalizer on my computer for days like yesterday! I should know better than to SUI (surf under the influence).

Thanks for everyone's suggestions and tolerating my ramblin' on. I'll get this whipped, one way or another!

[chris200x]

I'm going to have to install a breathalizer on my computer for days like yesterday! I should know better than to SUI (surf under the influence).

Thanks for everyone's suggestions and tolerating my ramblin' on. I'll get this whipped, one way or another!

HA!!! Welcome to the club... :D Thank god for the "EDIT" button. :lol:

I noticed yesterday after running mine a few times through the heat cycles that the bowl on the bottom of the pump vibrates loose and start to leak again. WTF?!?!?! :confused:

[GoodKarma]

Well, it runs and didn't blow up! But, the fuel pump doesn't seem to doing shyte! THere's a trickel of fuel that comes out of the carb side, but not enough to keep the bowl of the carb filled. I can fill the bowl on the carb, and get it to run for about a minute. Tore the pump apart AGAIN, took the plungers and put the left one on the right, and the right one on the left, just for something to try. Fuel pulls up to the pump, but not coming out the carb side. Anyone nearby to come look at it?

[GoodKarma]

Can anyone remind me where that rebuild kit was available for the pump? Maybe something on mine isn't fitting good, and I should buy another kit. I have done a search on Dennis Kirk, but not finding that kit that used to be on there.

[chris200x]

Can anyone remind me where that rebuild kit was available for the pump? Maybe something on mine isn't fitting good, and I should buy another kit. I have done a search on Dennis Kirk, but not finding that kit that used to be on there.

Goodkarma, take a look here:

http://www.3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=28179&highlight=fuel+pump+rebuild+kit

[GoodKarma]

Stud you are! I used to have a Dennis Kirk page bookmarked, but deleted it once I got this one rebuilt. I've sent a message to Mikuni (Sudco) to get a rebuild kit ASAP. Maybe I did something wrong, like bent a plastic disk or have a leaking gasket. Mine just isn't working, and I don't know where else to turn.

I have Mywifeknowseverything sending me a fuel pump to try and help me be sure this is where my problem is originating. I had a helper today, for the first time, and he said he was feeling pushing and pulling actions coming from the cylinder while I kicked it over.

Sure wish you guys were closer by, because I would buy all the beer you can drink if you could give me a hand on this project!:beer :beer :beer

[Dammit!]

I put a '86 250R carb on my Z. Starts way easier ever since. Runs better too. Stock R carbs are a dime a dozen on ebay. Only thing that kinda sucks is the choke knob is on the pipe side so it's a minor annoyance to reach it.

[GoodKarma]

Here's a photo of the back side of the pump, with the cover off that has the intake from the cylinder.

Anyone see anything obvious that is wrong??? The plunger goes on that side? Seems to make sense to me, as it sucks from the cylinder, that pulls the disk out on the tank side, causing fuel to move into the pump.

Oh well, I guess I will stare at it more and see if the fumes start to take over.

http://home.comcast.net/~mike.markley/100_0329-1.jpg

[GoodKarma]

Thanks for the suggestion "Dammit". I ended up getting a 38mm Mikuni flat-slide that was bored to 39.5mm, and I put a Power-jet kit on it. This doesn't start too hard if there's fuel there, but that's my problem at the moment!

Not too pleased that the choke is on the wrong side on this one either, but like you said, it's a minor annoyance. I have the same problem with my '83 250R.

[Dammit!]

Man you can really see how nice that paint job came out in that pic.

I'm afraid I can't help you too much on the fuel pump. I rebuilt mine once and luckily I must have gotten it right on the first try. Haven't had to mess with it since.

[TimSr]

Hard to tell from a picture, but is that a black colored flat plastic pieces on the valve? It should be clear plastic. Just making sure its not somebody's homeade part. They are in the correct sides. As you look at this picture, there should then be a thick gasket on this, a flat piece of clear plastic (mylar) on top of that covering the whole thing (this is the diaphram), and then another thick gasket on top of that, and then the metal back plate with the vacuum fitting. Is that what you have? Take a pic of the parts you took off the back, if you have any question about it.

[GoodKarma]

Thanks for offering some input Tim! I'm sure everyone is annoyed by my constant bothering, but it pales in comparison to the hours I have spent trying to get this fingered out.

The kit I purchased off of Dennis Kirk had black plastic parts rather than clear. I also have two thin gaskets and two thick gaskets. The thin ones are more of a rubber type material, where the thicker ones are a fiber type of material. I have the thinner, rubber gasket closest to the middle of the pump, the plastic diaphram, and then the thicker fiber gasket towards the outside of the pump. This is the same on both sides of the pump. If that doesn't make sense, I can take photos to share.

Is it possible that the thinner rubber gaskets go on the other side of the pump, and both thicker gaskets go on this backside of the pump? That would be amazing if that was found to be the problem! I'd also feel like a complete idiot!!!:crazy:

[chris200x]

Mike, That's exactly how I rebullt mine (how you just described) just a few months ago so i dont think that's the problem. Mine is working good.

I can't really tell from that picture but my pump had some sort of clear rubber piece in those slotted holes. either that or it's in backwards. here's a pic of mine whe I cracked it open

[GoodKarma]

Hmmm, maybe the kit I bought was too stiff or something? I will see if I can get the Mikuni kit and maybe that will make things better.

[chris200x]

check my post above I edited it. I'm not 100% sure but look at your little black piece and look at the one that was in mine. I think your maybe in backwards or something, If not.. IDK....

Oh.. better save yourself the headache and use hose clamps instead of zip ties. mine leaked like crazy!

[GoodKarma]

OOOOh, you mean I have the rubber "dealio" (that's Oklahoma redneck for thingymabob) in backwards? That's the rubber part that holds the plastic disk in there. Don't tell me that! I tore this apart today, and looked at taking these apart to flip the disks over, but was afraid it would tear the disks.

Does that make sense to you Chris, that the rubber part that holds the disk in is backwards? The only thing, is that on one side, and I think the one in my photo on the left side, the rubber part won't fit in the recess if you flip it around. We looked at this today, but what do we know!

[chris200x]

Eeeeh.. My brain hurts from thinking so hard! :lol:

You have the gaskets and diaphrams in the correct order. I'm not sure if those little little rubber pieces are correct. See if there is a way to switch them and try that.

Here's all the pics I took when I opened mine up. these are pics of both sides of the pump.

I hope this helps some.... :lol:

[GoodKarma]

That's a little tricky-dickery thing there, what with your photos upside down and the other side of the pump. I think, after further evaluation, that we are on the same page.

Darn, I was hoping your master experience would put an end to my frustration! I guess I will spend tomorrow working on the air-fooler and get it ready for the Oregon trip next weekend. I really wanted to take this project along, but it's not going to happen if it isn't runnin'! Maybe the loaner pump will work later this week, but not holding my breath.