weird 350X stator

[Pete]

Has anybody seen a 350X stator that has been rewound like this before? I replaced it because the lights on the bike didn't work, but the stator ohm'd out OK but only produced 4V. I guess now I know why, it looks like the ignition coils were rewound onto the lighting coils to produce greater output. Comments?

The rewound stator is on the left, the new OEM stator is on the right.

[Liquid-Darkness]

The stator on the left is an 86, the stator on the right is an 85.

[Pete]

will the 85 stator work correctly in an 86? thats quite the difference in design...

[Liquid-Darkness]

The 86 flywheel is smaller I believe. The 85 needs an 85 flywheel, and the 86 needs an 86 flywheel.

[Pete]

well I did install it and it started right up, but the lights still don't seem to work

[Pete]

Ok Pete, you need to have good working bulbs on and connected in the front and rear to get the lights working. Make sure your AC regulator is between the rear lights and your power source. You can check your Alternater lighting coil with a good mulit-reader. Its the white cliped plug where your engine connects to the wireing harness near the carburetor. Check the plug that leads into the engine. Get your self a multi-meter and set its range to the lowest ohm setting. Put your red on the VMA and your black on your COM ground. Tap the red and black metal sharp tips to create a current, then quickly toutch the black on green and the red on the yellow. You should get your lighting coil reading. The resistance should be between 0.1 and 1.0 u.

You can also set your multi-reader's range to the sound option and check your wireing continuity. If it beeps, the wires are not broken and are intact. If there is no beep, there might be a damaged wire somewhere.

AC= alternating current
DC= direct current

These bikes are DC because they create their power and use it, like a battery. The power does not come and go, like AC power in a house for example.

To check your thumb switches, set your mulit-reader to the same beeping range setting for continuity checks. Unplug your thumb switch plug from the wireing harness. The on/off button for lights checks as follows:
toutch the black tip to the green wire, and the red tip to the white/black wire. With those toutching, click on your lights power switch. Your multi-reader should beep if there is good continuity.

The dimmer switch/high-low beams is the same method and readings are as follows:

High beams should beep with the red tip toutching the brown wire and the black tip toutching the blue wire.

Low beams should beep with the red tip toutching the brown wire and the black tip toutching the white wire.

brown= positive
green=ground
blue=ground
white=ground

Your AC regulator should read as follows:

Resistance should read right at 100k ohm's. Set your range to 200k on the green ohm setting.
Toutch your black tip to the green wire, and toutch your red tip to your white wire. Remember to tap the red and black tips togeather on your mulit reader quickly before you take your reading. This creates a current. Good luck dude.

Anyone have anything els to throw in?

thanks for the info. This is where things are interesting...this is a 350RX conversion. I don't see a tail light lead anywhere, I assume its been cut off. If I got the lights working, I was going to tap into the headlight wiring to wire the tail light.

So what you're saying is, with the engine running, I can't unplug the white plug with green/yellow wires and get 13.5-14V off of it? Right now, when I do that, it reads nothing. It ohms out at .5 ohms which is within spec. The old stator is .4, also within spec. I first started at the headlight plug and got nothing, then tried the voltage regulator, again nothing, and have traced back to the stator plug where I'm at now. I'm at a loss why there is no voltage coming out of the yellow/green plugs from the stator.

[Pete]

well, I plugged in my Ricky Stator aluminators, and they work. Guess this is a new one for me.

One last question...where were the OEM tail light leads on the wiring harness. I'm pretty sure this is the OEM X wiring harness, I just don't know where the tail leads were, I'd like to try to find them and rewire them correctly. Thanks!

[Pete]

the manual states to start the engine, and disconnect the white connector with gree/yellow wires, and apply a lead from the VOM to each. Either way I do it, I get 0 volts, but when I plug it back in, the lights work. It totally makes no sense to me either, but I guess I don't care because the lights work now.

[Liquid-Darkness]

Thats good.

[Dangerous-UK]

Make sure you have the meter on A/C you will got 0 volts if you have the meter on D/C

[Pete]

good point, I'll have to look at the meter tomorrow and see how I had it set.