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View Full Version : help with 84 tecate crank and shift seal



kasuki
04-10-2007, 08:51 PM
one can the counter shaft seal be changed from the outside of the cases and not have to split them.and should you have alittle side to side play on the connecting rod but no up and down movement.also how would you know if your rings were bad can you tell just by looking at it.should the rings spread after you pull of the cylinder the top one did the bottom one one side did the other feels like it is hanging up alittle but the cylinder looks perfect.last question if the last oner blew the top end and metal went into the crank case could it cause little pits on the lobs it looks like they may have sanded off debry in acouple spots would this be a big deal or should i really worry about it.thanks kasuki

tecat-z
04-11-2007, 12:02 AM
It would be possible to remove countershaft seal but you have to be creative. I've done this by drilling small holes in seal, top and bottom, and then threading a tapered slightly larger bolt into seal. It cuts threads in the metal backer as it goes in. Then use slide hammer to gently remove seal evenly so you dont bind it. Dont thread bolt in more than 1/4 in or you'll then be running into bearing. This works like a charm if done carefully. You need thrust movement and no up and down on con rod. Slight pits on crank lobes is almost always caused by corrosion due to moisture. Nothing to worry about. Lines would be caused by crank dragging against debris in bottom of crankcase. If engine ran when you had it all debris would have already been purged, and its prior to you . If bore is still nicasil lined and it looks to all be intact, and i mean all, then install new top end components and enjoy. If its sleeved mic it, then either bore, hone and repeat with new components.

kasuki
04-11-2007, 05:59 PM
if i get the seal out how would you put it back in

tecat-z
04-11-2007, 08:36 PM
Evenly tap it back in from the outside til seal is flush with case like you would do a shift seal, kick seal etc. When you remove sprocket you can remove the collar that actually seals it up. It is between the output shaft and seal face. It draws out pretty easily unless it has wear grooves from seal. Then it may hang a bit. Sometimes you can tug on collar with needle nose pliars if you grab between splines. This will free up a lot more room to work. If you have a long narrow seal puller you can get in there as well. Remember, use your head, and take your time and this will be a very simple fix.