More Tri-Z questions

[J.D.]

After I start it up and ride it for a bit, and stop it, I can see a PINK MILKY FLUID coming out of what looks to be the crankcase breather tube? It's a tube right behind the cylinder it comes out of, allmost reminds me of hot ATF, but pinker and milkier. WTF is this?

Next question: I put a 45 pilot jet back in the carb, because it had a 40. So now my carb is back to stock, all the settings are right, and this damn thing STILL has no low end power. Only thing I know of left that could be wrong is the reeds, right? I took the pipe off, the exhaust port is nice and clean, the pipe isn't dinged up (except where it looks like theres a stock bend to fit under the radiator), and as far as I know the silencer is clean. If I took the silencer off and ran it like that, would it hurt the engine any? I've been told I probably shouldn't, because 2-strokes need back-pressure or something like that.

thanks guys

[200x Basket]

i bet they are running automatic transmission fluid in the tranny. it may be mixing with some water. it makes it look like pepto bismol. chech your water level and get the correst tranny fluid.

[dirtbike77]

check the color of the coolant.... if its the same color u probaly got a bad seal somewhere along the lines.

[J.D.]

Hmm...checked the coolant, looks fine.

[Billy Golightly]

Yeah baskets right, they probably put ATF in the tranny. Drain it and get some correct oil in it. The reason that its coming out the breather tube is probably because its over filled. The person that put the tranny fluid in might not have known about the oil check bolt.

[J.D.]

ok so is it safe to run without the silencer, or does it have to stay one for "backpressure"?

[Billy Golightly]

You can, but I wouldn't reccomend it. And Don't do it without richening up the carb, quite a bit. Also, I'll add that taking off your silencer will not give you any more lowend, if thats what your thinking, it will totally make it all topend. If your pretty sure your lowend problem isn't just the typhical no power at low RPMs 2 stroke, then take a compression test and see if its notgetting time for a piston or ring job.

[J.D.]

Oh my purpose wasn't for the low end power deal, it was for the noise factor, HEHEHE! Harass the neighbors! :D I wish somebody lived nearby so you could take it for a drive and tell me what you think. If this is the typical no lower end power of 2 strokes...then I'm totally disgusted. I think something must be wrong because it is so pathetic it's unbelievable.

EDIT: I forgot to ask with the ATF being run in there, will that seriously hurt anything?

Another Edit: I have to bring it up almost to the powerband to make it take off. It's nice and loud when I take off....I just don't think that's right. One more thing, where can I buy a new axle at? The left side threads are hardly there, and I think the best thing to do is replace the axle.

[Billy Golightly]

While I didn't exactly like the way the lowend on 2 strokes where when I first got my R, I learned to adjust my riding to style to be able to make up for the lack of 4 stroke lowend that I had been use to my entire life. I've never ran ATF in anything, but I can't imagine it really damaging things other then perhaps making it difficult to make friction on the clutch (Similar to the problems when using STP or other oil treatments)

[Billy Golightly]

Mike from long island has a BAnshee axel in is Z, so that means (I believe) that the raptor axel would also be compatible. When you mean, bring it up to the power band for it to take off, you mean where the engine kind of evens out and starts making power right? It Sounds like just a normal 250 2 stroke to me, but like Tim Sr said in a previous post, a need for a piston or ring job could be amplifying this.

[J.D.]

What I mean is I have to rev it up close to the powerband before I even start letting the clutch out. Here's the steps:

1: (in lower rpm) kick it into first
2: rev it up close to powerband
3: let the clutch out, fly fly fly!!!!

[Billy Golightly]

Do a compression test, if you don't have one or know someone that does, you can get them pretty cheap out of Dennis Kirk (Around $80 or so I think) and their a priceless tool to have for diagnosing things.

[wanta250r]

$80 shock I got mine for ten dollars. It doesn't fit my 200x plug hole though. evil

[ThreeKing]

:-D I'm positive that your water pump seal is bad. Take the clutch cover off to work on it. I've seen that same problem on a couple of Tri-Z's. You can use Banshee or Blaster axles.

[Billy Golightly]

$80 :shock: I got mine for ten dollars. It doesn't fit my 200x plug hole though. :evil:

The one in Dennis kirk comes with assorted adapters to fit different spark plug holes, plus it has a pretty decent length hose on it so you don't have be under the gas tank while trying to kick it over.

[TimSr]

Change your tranny oil before you do anything! Get that tranny fluid out of there. A few things here. Your silencer most likely has nothing to do with backpressure, as its only a straight-through extension. It does not restrict airflow, but put it back on anyways. The best way to have a new trike and no place to ride is to piss of everybody in the surrounding square mile. A Z is plenty loud with a good working silencer. Second , get that tranny fuild out immediatly. What you are probably mistaking for a lack of low end is a clutch that wont smoothly engage. You start letting out the clutch and it grabs suddenly, and if youre not revved way up, it stalls. Just put any good name brand 10w40 OIL in there and youll be fine. Im partial to Syntec or other synthetic blends, but any 10W40 will suffice. Youll probably have to change it pretty quickly the first time till you get that other crap oil. Tranny fluid breaks down oil, and even small amounts will cause your oil to lose its viscosity. Tranny fuid is like 15w and should never be run in a crankcase. Do this before monkeying with any seals or anything else. Sounds like it has water in it, but since you dont know if they drove it through stream, or where it came from, start with clean oil, and see if it reoccurs. If it gets water in it again (gray oil) and you havent had it in water, the impeller seal is leaking.

FYI - The cooling system is positive pressure, and youll never get crank oil in the cooling system from a leaking seal, but youll get coolant in the crank. If you have oil in the cooling system, its coming through a leaking headgasket from the cylinder.

FYI - Banshee axle is interchangeable but its best to also get the Banshee locking nuts as the threaded part is wider, and the nuts are wider.

[Tri-Z 490]

I am also almost 100% positive that its a water pump seal. when the coolant mixes with oil it makes it a milky color. it was pink and milky on my tri-z to the pink is the kind of oil he used after I changed the oil it turned white and milky. the problem is that the water goes into the oild through the bad waterpump seal and then makes the oil come out the overflow. you should fix that as soon as possible it will F up your clutch and everything else because it slowely thins out the amount of oil in the bottom end to having more water and that wont lube the parts!

[Dynofox]

There has to be something wrong with your Z, mine has some pretty damn good low end.

[200xer]

my low end sucks, well kinda. If I try to drag race from a stand still, I have to slowly get it rolling and then blast it, otherwise it just bogs down. The motor runs excellent, starts right up, doesn't miss or foul plugs. The only thing is that the bike sat for about 3 years, with no oil in the bottom end. And when I replace my waterpump seal I measured the clutch plates and they measured out to what the brand new ones are. So I think that the guy before me just stuck the clutch plates in, never soaked them, then they stood dry for 3 years. Does this make sense and can I fix it?

[J.D.]

That is EXACTLY like mine 200xer!!!! Have you thought of checking your reeds? I talked to my shop teacher tonite and he said it sounds like a reed issue to him. Once I buy a gasket(your supposed to replace it after you take cover off) I'm gonna check them, and see what happens. I'll be sure to let you know what goes on after I check.

By the way, the best way to take off is rev it close to powerband, and let the clutch out fairly fast ;)

[Kilborg]

On the Atf thing...go ahead. ATF is good stuff, I'd reccomend Ford 80 weight atf (any other quality atf will be fine too). we have used this stuff in just about everything with good luck. I'd be inclined to say it helps hold better at high temperature, as there always seems to be a bit of slippage with a real hot clutch running synthetic. The milkiness is just a bunch of water.